cygnusx1

I used clear lexan and sprayed it with black wrinkle paint. I taped off a window for the megaview to show through.

Locktite softens with heat and then sets up again when cooled if, it didn't get excessively hot. Bolts that were still locktited are not indicators that the locktite did not fail. Safety wire sounds like the end-all.

I wouldn't have missed it if it had been a Polar Bear. Don't wear dark colored clothes when cycling...or walking along the road. It always kills me to see people riding, running or walking, along the road at dusk wearing camo.

Nice idea! You will even have real estate left in the gauge pod to add some indicator LED's for other things. Maybe even some toggles or push buttons for calibrating the O2.

When I ran Webers, I used a single EFI pump at the tank with a return loop. The EFI pump had way too much pressure for the Webers but the return loop had an adjustable restrictor (valve) in it that let the excess fuel bleed back to the tank and kept the Webers at 3psi. It worked fine. Simple is good. Maybe you can mount your vane pump under the tank.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(2wes5r55u1spqlqxb0ncbd3q)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=1000003803 Max Temp 300F. The lightweight flywheel is going to heat up MUCH quicker than a heavy steel unit so the temp cycles are going to be higher in frequency and amplitude. This could cause bolt loosening AND locktite failure. This is a HIGH TEMP red locktite good for 450F http://www.gizmosindustrial.com/servlet/the-34496/Detail Here is another claim of High Temp thread locker: http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=25419&showfull=Y Might want to go with safety wire on those bolts.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124421&highlight=flywheel http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123299 Post#5 I am going to need to get to the bottom of this issue. I have a Fidanza on my tool bench that needs to go in with the Z32 trans in a few weeks. Locktite RED will let go at high temperatures. Maybe that's the issue here.

This is just for kicks. Comparing our cars to "Supercars". Plus or minus 200# is within my guesstimate error allowance. I really have no idea how much mine weighs but I use lightweight air in the tires. Growing up, I always dreamed what it would be like to feel the power of a Supercar. I'm not sure I ever will, but at least I will be in the ballpark for sure.

Start searching and reading about "roll center" and "bump steer". You will be approaching suspension angles that get weird and dangerous.

Then you are looking at coilovers, with probable sectioned struts, and possible relocation of front LCA inner bushings up and out. To do it right that low, I would start considering adjustable control arms, front and rear, with camber strut mounts. Not cheap. You are going to lose a lot of "street-comfort" also. http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html http://www.arizonazcar.com/strassy.html

There is such a thing as too low. What do you intend to do with the car? Race, Street Race, Show? That will determine the proper way to lower it. You can lower it right or you an lower it wrong. The problem with wrong is that it may look good, but it will be unsafe. Normally you are height limited on the S30 by the frame rails being so low, and the control arm angles going into never-never land.

Smaller wheels and tires, is the easiest way to "dump". "fairly dumped" is a different story though. What are your "dumping" goals? There are all kinds of "dumps". We need more info. If you are trying out for the "dumpolympics", you need a different "dump" than for, say, "the dumpocross".

Why dont you just feed the webers with a single pump from the tank and skip the upper pump.

I'll start: (educated guesstimated numbers for my car) Feel free to add other cars that you know of to the list. 1976 280Z Turbo 2750#/325hp -8.5#/hp -12.5sec !

Numbers are from published websites. Flywheel HP is used. 1/4 Mile is calculated here: http://robrobinette.com/et.htm 2007 Corvette 3200#/400HP - 8 #/hp -12.3sec 2007 ZO6 3200#/505HP - 6.4 #/hp -11.4sec 2008 Porsche 911 GT2 3175#/530hp - 6#/hp -11.2sec 2000 Diablo 3474#/492hp - 7#/hp -11.7sec Ferrari Enzo 2766#/660hp - 4.1#/hp -9.9sec 2008 Viper SRT10 3437#/600hp - 5.7#/hp -11sec Lingenfelter Twin Turbo C6 ZO6 Corvette (factory pkg.) 3300#/800 -4.1#/hp -9.8sec 2007 Lingenfelter Corvette Z06 427 Twin Turbo 3130#/1518hp -2.1#/hp -7.8sec How does your car stand up to these numbers?

Very Nice! I love seeing people think outside the box. There is hope!

Last Summer at Cape Hatteras

It's going to be hot in that Mickey Mouse costume. Wear deodorant. J/K Welcome to the right coast!

It's sort of upstate. About an hour North of NYC. The roads are spectacular. In the Summer, we get loaded with motorcycle tours. They all want to snake through the county and town roads. The funny part is that when I went from driving all of these years on these roads, to a road course, my driving techniques were already well developed. Line choice, heel and toe, trail braking, contact patch weight shifting....all in a daily drive around here.

Hmm, something is yelling "special tool" in my head. No, that's not a hidden insult. You might need to visit a shop that rebuilds steering columns to see if they have a tool for compressing the spring that allows you access to the retaining clip. I would be stacking sockets, lengths of pipe, washers and a bearing puller right now trying to figure out how to make my own tool. One of my favorite things is to sit in the garage and try to come up with solutions to situations lke this. Good luck and definitely follow up! I searched the web and came across this tool. http://www.amazon.com/Steering-Wheel-Lock-Plate-Remover-Installer/dp/B000I135EY/ref=sr_1_20/102-9588701-8455301?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1205762842&sr=1-20 I could see this working for you. Clamp it to the main column and use the socket to push the spring and clip back into the column. Of course you will need to customize it to fit your column, but it's an idea.

Let me put a version up on youtube that is lower resolution. Let's compare vimeo to youtube. BRB

Believe it or not that video was shot with a pocket digital camera. Lots of new cameras are coming out that shoot HD video. The best bang for the buck if you want to shoot HD right now would probably be the Aiptek HD cam. If you only want video this is a pretty nice deal: http://www.amazon.com/Aiptek-720P-CMOS-Definition-Camcorder/dp/B000UO796Y/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1205690786&sr=8-1 This is my camera, the one I used for that video:

I posted about a built in spell checker about two years ago. I was informed that there is one here. I don't use it because I can't find it anymore. This is less about accidental misspelling and more about lazy typing. Accidental misspelling can be excused now and then. I re-read my posts a few times after posting them and then go back to edit them. For some reason my brain won't proof read them until they have been posted? Does that happen to anyone else?

Start your project on whatever car is in better condition. In the long run you will save money no matter what.

Just an idea. If you can get it clean enough, put in some JB Weld, then tap it again. It won't be good as new but it should seal ok. You might also try adding an o-ring as a washer. There is no oil pressure there so all you need is a good air-tight seal. If you drop the oil pan then just weld a nut onto it.