cygnusx1

Very cool. I investigated that approach a few years ago but I decided to go with an L28ET instead. I really wish you luck and I can't wait to hear how she runs!

My '76 Z has all original glass in it. The windsheild is really getting hard to see through with all the micro-scratches of 150K miles. I had the car repainted about 5 years ago and had the windsheild removed for the bodywork and then it was re-installed with new rubber and new trim. Can any glass shop replace a Z windshield or should I look for an "expert". I am most concerned with installing the trim without damaging anything. Also, anyone recommend good glass? Nissan glass?

By the way, the rubber trim I linked above is 21" long. It covers all the holes on the front 240 bumpers but the back will leave two holes exposed on each side unless you use the vertical push bars which fill in one of the holes on each side...use a tape measure and you'll see what I mean. They look nice anyhow. Well, I finished mounting the rear 240Z bar. After lowering the fuel tank I was able to get the bumper shock out. Then I ordered some rubber plugs from McMaster.com to plug the holes in the hatch where the bolts for the shocks were. The original 240Z brackets worked. They bolt to one hole on each side of the rear valence. You need to re-bend the brackets about 1.5" towards the drivers side to get it all centered up. There is no problem with the corner pieces fitting around the back of the 280Z. You will need to drill a new hole in the rear quarter panel and thread a screw from inside the panel to hold the bumper ends in place.

OK thanks. I was wondering if we were protected at all. I wasn't aware of a Consumer Protection Department. That's good to know. I am very close to the West border of CT.

How bout an SR20 Z06? Uggghhh. Well, that Neon is an awesome creation. I still don't like the looks but it's still awesome.

We always see ratings on the pump and we pay more for the 93 and 94 but how do we really know we are getting what we pay for. No, I'm not paranoid..I am just wondering if there is an agency that verifies that we are getting what we pay for. Some stations are pretty shady. I wouldn't put the old octane switcharoo trick past them. My WRX is VERY sensitive to octane and I find some stations high octane runs like 87.

If you have people skills, an idea, start a business. Form an LLC or an S-Corp to protect yourself and do whatever you like to do. People love good service. If you can provide good service with ANYTHING, the business will grow. It's not really that simple but two years ago, I was laid off for a year, and started a business from nothing. I was selling ONE motorcycle part online. People liked it so much that they told their friends and so-on and so-on...it grew rapidly. I made enough money and the business grew alot in two years. It became alot of work when I got another full time job, and I had to decide weather to continue it or sell it. I sold it to my brother and he is doing very well with it. Now mind you I wasn't struggling because my wife was working too and we could still keep the roof and the cars. We made several financial cutbacks to keep it real. Good luck. Follow your heart.

Dave, did you decide on that Haltech yet? I am still interested. Thanks.

Al, how long did that take you? A busy man can do alot of things. Top notch work as usual!

pick up a

Yes, I agree, it is most probably a small vacuum line split at the connection. I got so tired of cutting of the split ends that I replaced most of my miniature vacuum lines with silicone Radio Control fuel lines for hobby cars and planes. It's a bit soft but it works great.

he really enjoys.

Gotcha. Thanks for the valuable info! Batch fire gives the injectors less time to react but they have to only dump in 1/2 the fuel each shot.

It's official. I weighed a front and rear set of early (1976 280Z) bumpers and shocks, with all the rubber trim. It's right around 80 pounds with about 4 more pounds in the rear bar than the front.

Sweet! Nissan RAWKS!

Search for my recent thread showing photos. 240Z bumpers on 280Z.

Violacleff or 280ZForce: I tried this in the PM but Violacleff must be real bizzy. So I'll ask here. I am very interested in the whole Haltech, wires and sensor system...maybe even the injectors. Can you PM me with the details of the setup when you get a chance? Thanks

Thanks you answered my next question. Which was going to be about if you run batch fired only. It's nice to know that at least with Haltech, you can setup for batch fired now, and then add a crank sensor and go sequential later. MS however...is sooo affordable.

THAT is why I am here on this planet!

Can the '83 Turbo distributor be used as a crank angle sensor for a Haltech or any other standalone? Or do you need to add an alternate pickup somewhere on the crank or camshaft? Thanks, I am just studying the whole migration to standalone from stock ECCS but that is one point that is unclear to me.

Personally, I like the idea and have always thought of doing it too. However, IMHO, I think it would look better if they projected into the grill area about 6" or so. This way, you might be able to use the front brackets as well and it breaks up the large opening just a little. Lemme try some photoshop. BRB Yeah that's the sh!t right there!! Sorry I trashed your grill tho...

How much you want for the haltech? PM me! oh and injectors? and short shifter?

If it's like my 76 280Z, there is no room to move the bumper shocks backwards. You could fab some custom brackets. I don't think it's possible to trim the side rubber trim parts to look correct if you move the bumper back.

You can probably get rid of most of the metal behind the tail light panel too.

Why pay a fortune for original Nissan rubber strips. I found these. These strips should be long enough to cover all the holes in the bumper including the ones for the vertical pushbars. They are also narrow enough to fit on the thin ends of the bumper. Bumper Protection Molding kit - Model M112FE http://www.autoamenity.com/Body-Molding/Bumper-Molding.htm