cygnusx1

Yeah that can happen, and then cleanup can be messy too. BTW the block looks great. What paint did you use POR15? Here is a great 101 article on gasket sealing, including surface finish. http://www.rlengines..._L_Engines.html

I bet the glue on the tape or the tape itself just "wicked off" the WD40 in the places where you pressed it hard. Condensation or not, there is moisture in the air that hunts all things Datsun. I am going to say that an evenly, lightly, rusted surface might give a good "bite" to the head gasket. Of course I am just surmising. But that amount of rust should cause no trouble at all. Even if you left it alone. Of course, you did the right thing. Scotchbrite by hand will hardly touch the surface finish of the super duper Japanese cast iron. BTW..masking surfaces with grease, that you don't want to paint, is good practice.

That totally depends on the moisture content of the snow, the wind, the air temp, relative humidity...etc. Not that it wouldn't be a good thing to bet on. Nothing better to do anyhow.

We can control the weather. I don't buy snow tires this year and get hammered. You buy a large snowblower and get nothing.

Two things. Do you get free dyno sessions from the government to prove/disprove the HP rating? and How do they handle hidden/removable devices that can be switched off/detuned for the test; like NOS or a turbo?

Knock on wood, but the building codes here figure snow loads into the calculations. We have strong roofs and thick walls. The roofs are also tied to the walls with steel straps called hurricane ties. They even check to see that the proper number of nails were used in the construction. BTW that is my main garage which is built to residential code. My storage shed for the Z cars is up my property on the hill behind my house. That is not really built to any particular code other than what I thought would hold up enough weight. It should be plenty strong. The worse case is when we have 1-2 feet of snow on the roof with ice dams at the eaves, and then we get a warm spell with a rain storm. That causes serious trouble! I will not be getting inside that shed to see my Z's anytime soon. 19762802+2, send me four snow tires for my 330xi and I will send you snow!

The only work I can do to the Z cars right now, is shovel off the solar cells on the shed roof. Â Otherwise the batteries will be pissed at me. I can't even open the doors to look at them.

Tomorrow morning wil be the eighth time I go out to fire up the snowblower and bust out the shovels this season. We aren't even half way through...We probably had about 60-70+ inches of snow so far this year with almost no breaks. That patio table is 4' x 6'. Can you find my wheel barrow? I left it face down in the yard.

Mine was an 83 donor and did use the Fuel Pump Control Module until the Walbro broke its back. It modulates voltage through the ground side of the pump.

Check the red car for knee caps on the passengers side. OUCH.

Congrats on being able to be honest with yourself. Â That's the toughest part. Â You will enjoy building another Z even more than the previous one. Â I didn't realize that until I built a second one.

I also want to add that the L motor has a nice user friendly upgrade path. It can be upgraded slowly and steadily while being driven. You can ramp up to your HP goals, with manageable investments, in both time and labor, timed to your convenient intervals, all while you enjoy and drive the car reliably.

Low cost, ease of install, originality, historic interest, and the availability of a turbo version.

Oh yeah surely not the optimal solution but when your car is fully fabbed already, painted, and as a change of plans, you want to add a little negative camber, this is the easy thing to do. You could do the LCA pivot relocation which is probably better up front and cheaper in parts cost. Neither of these will give you extra tire to fender lip clearance for sure. If anything, it could make it worse. For fender clearance I would investigate slotting the towers first, if you don't want to mess with bodywork and wheel changes. I did not find that my car had much negative camber, if any, in the rear or front, in its stock configuration Jon. But then again the specs are strangely wide and I didn't like the way the car felt stock anyhow. But that is a topic well covered elsewhere.

Like I said, I like them and I like the way the car "bites" in the corners. I can't say anything negative about them but I can't confirm anything positive except that I like the way the car feels with the bushings. I did the same thing; fronts about a year before I did the rears. That wrench is useful and useless. You need it to turn the bushings, but you need to get it cherry red with a torch, and drop it in oil to harden it. It's way too soft to be useful as-is. Mark the bushing with a file befor you install them and use that as a reference for adjusting them. Of course follow up with an alignment.

I run those aluminum/delrin eccentric bushings, front and rear, with stock shock towers and suspension. I am lowered 1" via springs and I measure between -1.3 and -1.6 degrees of camber all around. This is on my 280Z with the bushings maxed out.. I like the change they made to the car. Feels a bit tighter or stable, and turns in better...could be a phantom effect though as I have no numbers to back it up. I switched from Poly to these. I always run zero toe up front and have the rears set with BOTH bushings maxed out and don't know the rear toe number. It should be factory spec, or at least where it was before the bushings.

Yeah hopefully you are bidding alone, but I think that one is going to get a salvaged title.

Sidebar: It would be interesting to see emission plots of a "properly" tuned L24 carb'd engine vs federal and non-fed L28 efi. I would also like to see those emission plots against a current LEV engine (pre and post cat) to see how far engine design has actually come. ...back to your regularly scheduled skooling.

You sure that someone didn't mount an intercooler with hoses running underneath?

Generally, engineers want to get the cats to light off as quickly as possible so they usually place one as far forward as possible.

You can probably buy a top cover... Me, in my cheapness and impatience would probably rig up a repair. My repair would look better than that though! That repair probably works fine but I would cut off half the post, clean, fab up a replacement chunk and pin it with a dowel or screw. I would also investigate fuel proof epoxies.

Make sure the fp control module is grounded. The case needs to be grounded.

Red with silver, gray, or black accents will work. Unless you want a flashy sponsored look in which case anything goes. Air dam should be either body color or black IMHO. Flares can go any level of silver-gray-smoke-black. By silver, I mean something matte silver to make them look like brushed aluminum. Red/silver works

Described as a "freak storm" that triggered the flash flood.... what a mess. Good luck to all of you down under. Stay safe however possible.

Yes, heat can pressurize them internally and negate pressure from the reading.