cygnusx1

There is not much to see. Mount the MS box in the car somewhere, and run about 30-35 wires from the MS box to the engine bay (or buy the pre-made bundle). Make the wires long enough to route anywhere around the engine bay, to the furthest point (cooling fan area?). Make sure you throw in a few pairs of sheilded wires running with the bundle (will be used for the dizzy). Also run a nice heavy pair of wires, I prefer shielded, from the MS area to the fuel pump area. Variations to the wiring result from the way you get power to the MS and the fuel pump. ie. where you mount the relays, manual switches, or the MS pre-made relay board. When MS gets power, it is designed to turn on/off/control a fuel pump relay with one of its output wires. The rest is cutting, soldering, crimping, and tidying up. Hope this 10,000 foot picture helped out.

Congrats Ron! Now get out there, tune it, and show us the smoke! From the tires, that is.

RT mount is a MUST. It may not be the solution your clunk, because you already have the solid mount. However, the RT mount is very solid, and transmits far less NVH to the chassis, than your solid mount will.

Some driveline clunks can be VERY difficult to find. My 280Z has had the clunk since I bought it all original with 69k miles on it. Since then, over 20years, I have changed: engine, clutch, trans, entire diff, diff guts, half shafts, CV shafts, diff mounts, RT mount, mustache bushings, wheel bearings, trans mount, and STILL have the CLUNK. I gave up. The only thing original is the drive shaft, and that checks out physically. OTOH, my 240Z with totally stock drivetrain, asides from the L28, new factory mounts, and poly bushings, has ZERO clunk. Go figure.

Yeah I know and I keep hinting to Clive to boost that LS! I am just poking him in the ribs is all.

 I go out to my car that sits for days in 15-30 degree temps, pull the choke and they fire right up.  After about 2 minutes of warmup with me holding the revs at around 1500, I let off the throttle, and it purrs at 900rpms.  Every time. I think that the only way engine vacuum could pull open the butterflies was if there was more vacuum on the bottom half of the butterfly than the top.  Otherwise, vacuum pulls on the top and the bottom equally, canceling the moment out.  Could a bad seal/fit at the top edge of the butterfly cause this problem...I suppose it could?  It sounds as if your cabs have all had bad bores or bad plates.  Tough to imagine, but possible.

Very nice pics! Â Waiting for the vids!

Got a pic of the linkage? Â Almost all Weber installs run an auxiliary return spring. Â The abrupt change in pedal pressure could be due to linkage geometry/angles that bind up. Â Pics would help.

Took one of my old photos, shopped it, and turned it into an "inspirational" poster. Â What do you think?

Use thick washers and snug the bolts, it's safe.

See Clive, when people claim that its cheaper to get HP out of a V8 than it is to get out of an L28ET, they don't factor in, that when enough is not enough, L28ET guys can just turn up the boost rather than pull an engine. Â Â Â Â Not implying anything, except that our addictions are the same but all I have to do is turn a screw! Â LOL

Is that my rental P90A on the bench back there?

Yeah the camera angle make me look taller doesn't it? Â Â Â It was a quick and dirty direct bolt-on of a point and shoot camera onto the rear strut tower bar. Â Definitely need to fire that camera guy!

Aha, Santa must really be UPS!

Bimmer or a P-car for sure. Â That Supra is tempting too. Â For some reason Hondas don't sit well with me.

Get the VIN.

Can you tell he's Italian? Â He just kept telling me go left go left go left, followed by go right go right go right, and then go go go. Â I pretty much already knew all that. :0 Â He told me to flash my lights at the Ford Focus because the guy wasn't pointing me by. Â I think he was an OK instructor, but he didn't know my level of skill, and didn't take the time to let me show him what I could do, before he began giving me instructions that were annoying and basic.

Novice run group, this is my third track day ever, second time at Watkins Glen. Â This instructor was too chatty and made me nervous. Â Regardless, I had a great time and the car ran great. Â I had a ton more left in the car. Â As you can see by the boost gauge, I was pedaling a lot. Â The power was there when I needed to pass cars though. Â http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O9Q-AZ5vik

A pic is worth a thousand words. Â Thanks to google sketchup.

Take a look at this diagram.  Part number 48 is the progression port cover.  Take off the covers and shine a light down in there.  Look at the little pinholes.  Move the throttle plates and you can see them through the little holes.  The top edge of the throttle plate should be blocking the pinholes from engine vacuum at idle.  If it's not, you need to adjust your linkage or throttle stop screw to allow the position to be correct.  This is one of the first critical steps to tuning a weber.  Once you are there with the throttle plate you NO LONGER MESS WITH THE stop screws.  You can turn it +/- 1/4 turn to stabilize the idle, but no more than that.  Those little pinholes are there to piss fuel into the engine when you begin to crack the throttle.  They make the engine transition, from idle to about half throttle+, smoothly.  If you tune idle, with the progression ports pissing into the engine (exposed to engine idle vacuum), you will get a flat spot off idle.  BTW, you can use those holes to perform a "VISUAL carb synch".  Make all the butterflies cover the same pinhole! Back to my timing talk.  If you find that the engine idles too slow after you do this, play with the IDLE VOLUME SCREWS (#56) up and down to get best idle.  THEN you can add timing or take timing away to get the idle where you want it.

Attempting to throw some better luck your way, along with best wishes for the whole family.

You need to spend quiet time with your linkage. Â Be methodical. Â Disconnect one carb at a time until you find where it binds. Â Don't be afraid to up/down your timing to get the idle where you want it. Â It's better to raise the idle speed by increasing timing than to expose the progression ports!!!

Awesome tank make sure the fabricator or you, keep the blueprints handy for future use. Â I anticipate he will be getting some phone calls soon. Â Weigh the tank dry and full of gas to figure out the capacity.

I don't think they do. It's usually the accident investigators that determine the reaction time wasn't up to par.  Like when I discovered skid marks in front of the tires of a car that just bounced backwards, head on, off the wall in front of my house.  He applied the brakes after he hit the wall. My life has been threatened more by, texting drivers, than anything else. Â

It's a little tough to catch reaction time on a cop cam especially when the impaired driver happens to know how to stay within the lines.