cygnusx1

Switch to a non-filled gauge.

Let me guess, liquid-filled pressure gauge.

I love the graphics on it. Cool car.

Yeah I love his brakes. Make sure you gauge the rotors with a dial indicator and shim them straight after the initial install. I made the mistake of simply having them turned (lathe) when they were brand new and mounted to the hub, and ended up with thick and thin spots on brand new rotors.

Thanks Mario, I had no idea that there was a full version of Tuner Studio! I used the free one a little bit, but for some reason, my cheap laptop didn't get along with it that well. It chewed up some of my already good maps and left me scratching my head when the car wouldn't run all of a sudden, after a map change. If I ever get a better laptop, I'll try the full version.

240zip, I like the way you think. I think the same way.

Here is something that often gets overlooked by the MS newbies, and the people giving advice. Before you buy, or decide on a unit... You CAN and you SHOULD go download the Megatune software, or tuning package, from DIY Autotune. It's FREE! DO install it on your PC or Mac, print out the manual, and start playing with the software while you learn it. Tuning starts to make much more sense when you get your hands on the software, play with it, and read the manual to it. You can't really tune without the MS unit and the Sim board attached, but you get to see the software run, and see how to enter values.

This question is like asking how everyone drives to work each day, and hoping that it applies to you. Each go a different way, but they all start at home, and end at work. Start with the megamanual, the diagrams, and plan a route that is best for you. Mine worked for me but might not be everyone else's ideal. COngrats on choosing MS. It works well and is fairly easy to get working, despite what it looks like when you read all the literature. You want pics? Here, I hope they help. They are pretty gory.

The advent of all the cheap wheels for $99 might have put a dent in BBS...

Winter here in the N.E. and Z's don't mix. So mix your own. The only electrical problem I have, resulting from the cold weather, is from mice chewing the wires. That problem has been resolved, thankfully.

I wasn't implying that you needed a TPS I was saying that you could use either one for ignition control, but when you finally go with EFI, you want the MAP.

Old news I think, but I had no idea. http://www.autospies...nkruptcy-12416/ and again http://www.autoblog.com/2011/01/05/report-bbs-files-for-bankruptcy-yes-again/

I think its a great Idea and not one that hasn't crossed my mind for my car either. You will get a lot of bang for the buck if you shop and plan right. Without a MAP sensor and the carbs, you would need to run "N-Alpha" which requires a TPS in addition to an RPM signal ie. trigger wheel. Not a big deal at all. I am not sure how accurate a MAP sensor would read on N/A with a separate runner intake. Worse case you tap into each runner. However, in theory, each runner should produce roughly equal and consistent vaccum. So installing a vacuum line in one runner for the MAP might suffice. MAP or TPS would work. If you go EFI, then definitely MAP and TPS.

What was the main reasoning behind Nissan designing in an "emphysema" cam for the L28 Turbos? Emissions? Fuel Efficiency? Low end torque? Limitations of the factory turbo technology at the time? ...Paul, or was it the limit of that tiny little power robbing throttle body they came with? < joke for Paul

Please follow up with your impressions of the cam. It has always been on my list of reasons to get off the couch.

I made mine in my vise from a piece of galvanized sheet metal from Home Depot. Tin snips and a hammer are all you need. I made a cardboard template and then cut it out of metal. The end near the head is shaped and flared to fit snugly around the header pipes. I glued foil backed fiberglass mat to the under side. It works great at keeping the carbs very cool.

LOL, yeah what a waste of your internet!

I have only seen a few of the Brit versions of the show. Probably only the great ones, like Bolivia, and the Moped races, and a bunch of internet clips. I suppose they have their low points as well.

Shoot me if it's a repost.

Their challenge races are getting tough to swallow. How setup was that race between the Honda and the mountain bikes last night? It's a mockery of the real thing. This trend is not boding well for the show. They are setting up shots during the "races" to get attractive camera footage as a compensation for lack of content. Sad. The rest of the show is slightly improved. They need to work on making the chases at least feel more realistic. Are we watching a bad thriller or a bad documentary?

My theory is aimed more at what Jasper is seeing, not what you are seeing. It sounds like you have a larger differential than that. I would open up all the lines, flush and back flush them, flush the safety valve and prop valve and any other unions. Inspect or replace the flex lines at the calipers. When they fail, they can collapse internally (not visibly) and act like a check valve, allowing flow in only one direction.

You have more "pipe loss" on the right side. Because the entire column of fluid is moving, creating friction multiplied by the length of the pipe. It is negligable when you have huge pressure multiplications from the MC and the brake booster, but when the pads release, the pads push back with very little pressure advantage, so these pipe losses can certainly become a factor. It's just a hypothesis that could explain what you see at the service end.

Could it be because of the longer return path (percentage wise) that the caliper on the right drops pressure more slowly than the left one, after the brakes are released. This could cause the pads on the right to drag slightly longer on brake release. This would not be noticable to the driver, but would become apparent only when Jasper went to replace the well worn pads. If so, RHD cars should exhibit the opposite. Â Interesting.

Air in one side, sticking pistons on one side, or a collapsed brake hose. Those things are pretty common and can cause left to right bias issues. Does the car pull to one side or the other when suddenly applying brakes or when steadily applying brakes? Check compartative temps with an IR meter after a drive.

One of my favorite reference books is "Basic English Revisited". It makes a great toilet book, and is great for settling arguments over improper "grammer". Every US home should come with a copy. http://www.goodreads...glish_Revisited