cygnusx1

  Well, this was about ten years ago.  I realize now that the BBB and Zagat ratings are pretty much BS at this point.  My point was that the business was not an ebay "paper" business, it was brick and mortar, I should have been more specific.  Don't even get me started on Consumer Reports... http://www.bbb.org/u...-Accreditation/ There is also a Customer Complaint History section for each listed business.

 Looks great.  What method did you use?  I also forgot to mention that aluminum foil is much much easier to use for masking the brake lines and harnesses.  It goes on quick and comes off quick, no tape needed.Â

Nice I was looking at those. Â I need to also research LED corner marker and blinker bulbs to take the load off the stalk contacts and connections. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/HID-Kits-Lighting

Thanks for the WGI Datsun event reminder. Â Hope to finally meet you up there!

The obligatory Fall shot:

 Common sense goes a LOOOONG way to being protected.  I got burned once because the (legit BBB) business I had ordered parts from, filed for bankruptcy after I paid for the stuff with my credit card. They never shipped the stuff.  Once the bankruptcy courts settled, I got my money back.  Cash is king, before you accept checks for payment, call their bank to confirm existence of funds.  They can tell you yes, or no. NEVER hand over the goods to a stranger until you have the payment in your possession, not just a promise of payment.  If the buyer or seller does not come to agreement with your reasonable terms, move on.  Another thing, don't buy anything for what it could be worth.  Buy it for what it's worth in its current state.  For example the guy recently selling a car on ebay, with promises to finish it for you, after you pay him for it.  NOT!!!

Read the megamanual, over and over, and over, and over. Â Then play with Megatune...and read more. Rinse and repeat. Â Yes, those are really nice seats that are pretty sought after by the BMW 2002 crowd...and the some of the Z crowd. http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

Volvo = safe, is the product of one of the best marketing campaigns in automotive history. Â Volvo was at a disadvantage in it's early days because its cars were too damn heavy for their time. Â A genius marketing wizard equated "heavy" to "strong". Â The rest is history. So many people come up to me and talk about that nasty accident that they had, in their S30, back in the day. Â Most of them claim that they walked out. Â I know a few personally. Â I even remember an interview with some hair-band where the lead singer...or guitarist recaps his experience with flipping his Z several times on the highway, at ludicrous speeds.Â

S130 Two-tone schemes..FTW!!

Wow Sarx, you have the untra-rare early BMW/Recaro 318i sport seats in there! Â I have them too. Â They rock! Â If you ever want to unload them....give me a PM.Â

It was a great Summer with megasquirt. Â Did quite a few miles, a long road trip, a track day at Watkins Glen, and lots of car shows. Â The car ran great all Summer long with almost no fiddling with the maps. Â It even starts up great in all weather conditions. So I figured I would share my latest map which I named "GREAT". MSII v2.687, stock L28et longblock, intercooled, T3/T4, LC1 WBO2, 440cc high imp injectors, dual pressure sensors, 4bar MAP sensor, no idle control, 18psi boost, EDIS6. !!!!!!!!!GREAT!!!!!!!!.zip

That decel value is ONLY when the gas pedal (TPS) is closing. Â Once the pedal stops moving, you are back on straight MAP, even while the car is decelerating. This applies to the code version of MSII I am running. Â You can cheat by pulling ve values under high vacuum on the tables as described above, and I have tried that. Â I was just surprised that when I brought more fuel in during deceleration to get in the 13.5-14.0 afr range, the popping just about stopped. Â When I had decels in the 16afr range, it popped like crazy. I will go to the MS thread and post the map I have been running for the past year or so with much success, on the street and at a track day full bore.

Oh definitely, an improvement but Jon is right, the EFI engines tend to decelerate more slowly due to a myriad of devices designed in, to do just that. Â The BCDD, the dashpot, the vacuum limiting valve (don't have the official name of it) on the ZX turbo manifold....just a few things that I vaguely remember which keep the engine decelerating slowly. Â It was all mostly an effort by Nissan to reduce emissions in the nasty "decel combustion zone". Â Some of the devices really make the car annoying to drive in a sporty manner. Eventually you become desensitized to it. Â I love the Fidanza flywheel in my turbo Z and like the way the motor revs come back down with all that decel rev-control stuff that I removed.. Â My Weber Z with Braaps old lightened flywheel, responds really, really quick, both up and down. Â It's a pleasure to rev match.

Thanks, I have one good neighbor out of about six. Â I try to be considerate of this particular one. Their driveway runs through a "right-of-way", over a piece of my property, but they also let me use their driveway to access the shed. Â One hand washes the other.

 I was laid up for a week or so due to some nasty cold but I got out there today and setup the doors.  I also added a second solar panel on the roof so that each car has a trickle charge on it.  I still need to trim out the door and frame, and conjure up some latches.  I lucked out with the excavation, you can see how close that boulder is to the door swing path.  The door clears the rock by about 1/4". Â

Local pick up!

I liked the L-Jet very much once I memorized the FSM. Â It's really a simple system. Â I like the Webers over the L-Jet simply because of the multiple throttle plates, breathing potential, the mystique, and of course, the sound. BTW if you decide to go with Megasquirt or stay L-Jet, I'll give you DOUBLE what you paid for that set of Webers. Â You said you got them for free right?Â

Darwin works fast on the net!

If there is a gap between the cast iron block and the trans, then you do have an issue. Â Most likley it's the correct tranny but incorrect installation. Â Possibly double dowel pins. Â I have forgotten to check the dowels before and attempted to put a dowel into a dowel...it doesn't work! Â Sometimes there is a dowel in the block AND the trans from the donor car. Â One of them has to be removed before assembly.

The EFI pump turns on for a burst of pressure when the key is first put in the run position. Â It then shuts off and waits for the engine to crank and fire up, upon which the pump will run continuously maintaining EFI pressure of somewhere North of 30psig.... Â If the engine stalls, so does the pump, via a switch in the AFM, regardless of the key in the run position. For Webers you need 3psi of fuel. Â You need a different fuel supply system. ie. pump, regulator, return line use (optional). Its always a good idea to have the pump shut off if the car is hit or rolls over. Â They make switches for that. Â Search "intertia switch" and consider using it when you wire a fuel pump to any switch or relay.

I love the sound of twice pipes. Â Yours included.

 I dunno, without the front glass or hatch, and the roof panel acting like a big lifting body???  I would think drag may be slightly reduced, if any, but lift is going to increase quite a bit...just a wild guess.  Personally, I would keep the glass for safety, and what we know works. Â

 Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like it fits.  Does it work?  If so, it's probably fine.  It does look like a Nissan/Datsun trans from the little I can see.  Chances are it's from a 77-83 Z or ZX model.  All of which bolt up fine.  Gear ratios vary from year to year but none are unusable. Pictures of the shifter mounting area, and the various bosses and sensors can give a clue as to what year/model it is.Â

True but is there "cheating room" with the chain guides and tensioner location? Redneck Dave says: "Get a bigger cam sprocket!" Yehaww  Â

This video just keeps popping into my head. Â I think I could have fun there too.