cygnusx1

Darn, if my project wasn't in progress, taking up my garage, I would have loved to help you out with this. I am currently laid off and this would have been perfect timing, but I have to finish my own right now. I don't have the space to multi task.  Let me see if I can work something out. Meanwhile take a look at my resume. http://dcerutti.smug...n/1749234_5BA2m http://dcerutti.smug.../10195543_2VzbZ

 We did 11 days in Yosemite, Tahoe, and Sequoia before our son was born.  It was the BEST vacation ever.  If you can get away from the coastline for a while, and you like amazing natural wonders, get a room down in Yosemite Valley for a night! It leaves a lasting impression. ...Although end of April is like mid-Winter up there!Â

I know I have posted this pic at least three times on this forum.

Looking good!  I hate Silver...don't paint your car silver.  Clive, you should let the painters know of the value of the dash.  Most non-z people don't appreciate the value and fragility of a clean dash.  I see SO many Z cars that have been painted that have overspray on the outside edges of the dash. If you do the blue metallic, go with the more rare, 903 blue.  Also instead of the color Joe used, you can go with the gold metallic from the Black/Gold ZX

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You can search for it because it is covered, but when I did my AZC brakes, I called Dave at AZC and he gave me advice specific to my car. Â Try calling Dave.

 How about a simple length of shock cord.  Maybe 400 pound shock cord, or just plain rope, would work.  Easy to replace, light, and won't rattle.  My 72 Alfa had woven straps around the rear axle to limit droop.

I am going to try to make it through this season without any dumases running into my Z! Â Â Â Â My Z is still snowed in but the temps are into the low 50's and the squids are out already.Â

Silver ALWAYS a good choice! Â You must be thrilled.Â

 Authorities, tend to be more concerned with more widespread cases.  If this is part of a ring, they will approach it quite slowly and cautiously.  If, it's an isolated case, they really don't have a ton of motivation, based on a missing phone.  There are bigger fish to fry; I would hope.  Yes, it should be handled accordingly, but if they take their time, I would understand.  I know it's harder to see it this way when you are the victim.  There is nothing worse than rushing a case, only to miss a detail and go down in flames, at your own cost.  My brother is "in the business".Â

Great story! Â I firmly believe that the seasonal hibernation makes us appreciate our Z's more. Â Mine is still snowed in, but the day the snow melts and the mud dries up, is like mardi-graz. Â My friends who make their daily drivers into "hot-rods" tend to get bored with them all the time. Â My Z never gets boring... Good luck with the future member of the family! Â I think my wife delivered a bit early due to the g-forces experienced in the Z so be careful!

Thanks all. Â I found one!

 All I heard was an angry lion and a giant sucking sound!  Awesome. X64v...I think I need to sell my 2.5" turbo back....and go 3"!Â

Great philosophy. Â Less power will teach you to be a better racer no doubt. Â The typical L28ET turbo lag can definitely be a handicap in a tighter autocross. Â Also, the N/A will give you plenty of rev range to work with in the autocross. Â You can keep your shifting to a minimum, and concentrate on carrying speeds. Â I just didn't want people to get the wrong impression about the L28ET swap. Â It can be very reliable.Â

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 All offers replied to.  Awaiting price and availability through PM's  THANKS!Â

The stock Z can do 120 pretty readily....130 with calibration error is not that far off.

I don't race or autocross my turbo 280Z but it has been nothing but sweetness. Â It is the best driving car in our household. Â Smooth, reliable, fast and it puts a smile on my face all the time. Â The only time it causes any trouble is when I try to tweak it because I am bored. Â Granted, I don't DD it. I beat on it only about 3-5K miles a year. Â Good luck with the N/A project! Â Keep us in the loop.

Here is a video I made while testing the electrical system.

Thanks for that info. Â It's needed for my 72 240Z.Â

  Yes and no, it might and it might not.  That's why the most precise tuning can be done on a dyno that can hold a set RPM.  You set the dyno to hold 2500rpm, for example, and move the throttle from load point to load point (kPa) while tweaking the AFR for max power in each load point.  The cam and flow harmonics will make fuel requirements vary at varying RPM's given the same load. I think Pete, Z-Ya, has a dyno that can do this right Pete?Â

Need the part that bolts to the firewall and has the forward rod that connects to the carb link. Â See pic>

 Tony, I thought the same thing.  That kid does not look happy to be there.Â

I use it on all my connections. Â Never had an issue. Â Metal to metal contact is the best connection. Â The grease should just surround the metal to metal contact point in a macro sense, to keep moisture and oxygen from oxidizing the contact. Â Conductive grease is not the answer. Â If your connections are tight, the grease will get displaced at the metal contact point, and do what it should do; surround it. Â Odds are that you had some loose connectors in the first place. Â Tighten them up if you can and try again.Â

 I have an app on my Nokia 5800 that uses Symbian OS.  www.qik.com  if you take video using the qik software, it streams in real time if there is a network connection.  If not, it stores the video and uploads it automatically when it finds a network.  I believe that the qik software works on any phone.Â