cygnusx1

+1

Get a good used crank and save some money. Post a crank wanted ad I suggest.

Great! Should be good to go now.

Quite a few people have run a dead headed fuel line in EFI cars here. It works. The only drawbacks are that it take a bit of extra time to purge hot fuel after a hot start, as long as your rail volume is sufficient. No biggie, but depends on where you live relative to the equator and sea level. My suggested Weber circulation method has little to do with consistent fuel delivery. The concept is designed to allow more frequent fuel changes in the carbs to keep the average temp of the bowl fuel down.

Easy way to find out if you have a little preload....check breakaway torque on the bench. Mine was about 10 foot pounds or so on the bench.

...and more hulu Datsuns.

I love that front bar. I run it on my Turbo Z. Made a huge difference in front bump reactions and steering response.

House Hunters....at 2:50 take a look in the garage. You may need to hit reload a few times to get the video.

Hey I just remembered that about a year ago, on that same road, I was driving the Honda van, and a baseball came through the sunroof glass. What next year?

I run solution #5 on my FI car. It seems to work fine on the FI. I am about to use the same setup with a low P pump for my Weber car in progress. I got to thinking that there may be a way to modify the Webers to get some fuel circulation in the bowls; other than the fuel that is coming in to replace the fuel consumed. You could tap the bottoms caps of each bowl and tie them to a return line regulated by a valve, tied to a vacuum source. At high vacuum, you could "flow" a portion of the bowl fuel back to the tank. At low vaccums you keep the drain-backs shut. It would need to be calibrated with an orifice so as not to outflow the feed + the consumption. Hmmm. A bit complex but a decent solution...IMHO.

So it's hard to complain after watching the news lately but I need to vent. My WRX develops an exhaust leak throwing check engine codes. No biggie at 150K miles time for an exhaust. So it's at the dealership waiting for parts. We take the mini van to pick up my parents Accord to use while the WRX is in dealer jail. It's pouring rain. The van power door decides to crap out the very moment we pick up the Accord in the rain. OK now the van is partially disabled. The door wont latch properly so it won't stop screaming at us when you put it in gear....I work around it by disabling the power doors. So today I am using the borrowed Accord so that I can drop off and pick up my son at school. On the way to pick him up, an oncoming Camry throws a front wheel at me! Coming right for my head, I duck, brake and swerve right. BAM it slams the front of the Accord. What gives? Down 3 cars in two days! On a positive note, the rain cleared away the salt and I took the Z for a spin. Ran great!!! Camry Wheel!!!! How long did this lady drive on ONE lugnut? And it decides to break right as I pass by. TONYD, are those heli-coiled lugnuts still available? I might have a buyer. Only four needed. Willing to part set? Parents Accord:

If you watch carefully, just before he lost control, his attention was diverted for a split second. I can't remember what it was. I think he looked down at a gauge or the shifter. When he looked back up, he was in too deep.

They work with or without the preload. I like the preload in there so I know everything is held snugly in place under no-load conditions. It's not imperative, just good. As long as your gears were not installed backwards, like mine, and others, had been, you will be fine. As far as the circlips go, my axles snapped in with no problems other than one side was tighter than the other. Yes, there is some play but it's not evident during use at all. I made sure the circlip grooves were towards the center of the core when I placed the side gears during surgery. Maybe I just got lucky. I THINK, that in your ME: picture, your circlip grove is towards the outside of the core...just taking note. Am I right or are you right, I don't know. This will be your contribution to this thread because I won't be taking mine out to check anytime soon.

I think that varies from person to person. I am certainly more careful with the Z I have been working on for 20+ years than a car I bought off the showroom floor.

I miss my Alfa...

The problem is that the fuel is heating up after it gets into the bowls. Once in the bowls, you have no way of cooling it off.

Did the washers create preload when you bolted the two halves back together? The stack of washers should be about 1/16" (rough guess for illustrative purposes) taller than the space given inside the diff to create some preload when you bolt it together.

VW Beetle.

A finned fuel rail would soak up heat from the engine bay.

Dude...lower the gamma on your PC. That bag should be almost invisible.

He he he...sorry to hear about the leaks, but in our East Coast cars, the leaks were found and fixed back in the 70's. From all the rain we normally get, most of ours don't leak from the top anymore. They leak from the bottom now! California Z Car for sale....no rust...leaky roof. New York Z Car for sale...some rust...no leaks.

In my poor-man college days, I had a high pressure FI pump feeding the webers, with a return line. I wrapped electrical tape around the return line, put a clamp over the tape on the hose and tightened the clamp until the Webers saw 3psi. Worked like a charm.

I had the aluminum hood of my WRX done after a branch fell on it. There were three pretty large dings which came out 100% perfect for $150. Very happy with PDR in general. I forgot to add that the first body shop I took it to quoted $700 for a new hood and paint match.

I just cleaned and lined a 240Z tank with a KBS tank cleaning and sealing kit. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_34.html They have instructional videos. Make sure you don't leave any paint puddled in the tank after you coated it. The puddles will harden as chunks and not stick to the tank. I had to bust a hardened puddle out of the tank and then recoat the area where the puddle had been. It can all be avoided buy rotating the tank for at least a half hour, after you poured out as much left over paint as you can.

Why do we park in driveways and drive on parkways? Why do we all want to park close to the gym entrance, and then go inside to walk on a machine?