cygnusx1

I forwarded it to my friend in Baltimore.

Externally balance engines, like ours, stay balanced as long as each component you add is already balanced.

Nah, you guys ain't missing much....go sew your shorts together! YEAH BABY.

Follow up.... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=107&products_id=24358

Geez, I even had to talk to 1-tuff-Z on the phone today using my voice. How archaic!

We LOVE our Odyssey. It's not a vehicle, it's a rolling extension of our house....

I think I remember seeing that car for sale. I was drooling over it. Nice.

School? Man I am getting old.

If you have a level floor to start with you are in good shape. I actually check my camber with a level against the rim flanges. Then I calculate using trig. You can get a digital level that will give you measurements instantly. I use a tape measure to set front toe with the steering wheel at center lock. Then take a drive and observe the steering wheel angle on a straight level road. Come back and adjust both end links the same way the steering wheel pointed. It usually takes one or two trys. Once you establish a few lines around the car with string or laser you can measure points to the rims and use trig to get all of your angles. The reference lines must be parallel to the car centerline and vertical. That's the hard part. One crude way to check front toe, quick and dirty, is to press a broom handle to the front wheel and eyeball it to the rockers on each side. Believe it or not, it gets you pretty close. Make it even on both sides with the steering on center lock.

What I did was to cut two sheets of stainless steel and rivet them to replace the rusted steel behind the hood hinges. Not sure if this would work for your intentions, but it looks fine and works just as well.

I was reverse engineering complex machine parts that had no blueprints by hand 12 years ago. I used basic trig, and calipers, to locate the key dimensions. This tool would have been a lifesaver back then. Of course, I was much cheaper to buy than the 3D scanner back then, so they just kept me around.

It's a nice home...on the smaller side of the average American home. I just wish it had more than a one car garage. I was thinking the other day that my sons bedroom is right behind the living room on ground level. When he moves out, I can replace the dividing wall with a glass wall, put in a garage door and park the Z right next to the living room where I can see it through the glass wall! My son is almost three! LOL.

Did you stick the suction cup out in the rain to wet it first. They stick much better when you wet them.

That fireplace was built in 1926 when the landscape was just beginning it's death as farmlands. The forests were re-growing in the area. Many of the stone walls that run for miles in the woods were built by the rock-clearing of farm land. These walls were robbed to build the chimneys and homes of the area. This chimney originally formed the gable end of a single room cabin along the dirt farm road. The only parts of the original cabin, are this room's floor substructure and the chimney. My main beam in the crawlspace is still a tree on it's side. The chimney was built with local stones, and mortared with mud and hay(Farmer's Fiberglass). Just recently, I poured a 24" high, concrete girdle around the base of the loose chimney. Then my dad and I scraped out about 2" of mud from the entire exterior face, all the way around, to re-point it with cement. I sealed off the fireplace with an iron frame, sheet metal, and some aluminum trim work, to install the catalytic wood stove. The fan on top of the stove is thermo-electric. It converts heat-flow into electric current to run the fan. The water trough is stainless steel, and the log holder is wrought iron, the stoves foot pads are nylon spun in a lathe, all fabbed up by my dad back in his machinist days. The foot pads keep the stove from crawling across the hearth. They do that you know! Yes, they do. I thought people would get the joke, but apparently it was too vague. (the story behind the Z seats in front of the stove has to do with softening the vinyl for reupholstering them) It was 24 degrees and icy outside when I took the photo. Not Z weather at all!

Yes, Josh...when I sit on the seats in front of my wood stove, I pretend I'm driving my Z up the PCH with a blazing sun. It's not a bad alternative to driving the Z on the salty roads covered with ice patches. I can even carry an open container, legally!

They couldn't prove it was consensual.

PM'd you all except Hoov. Hoov, I was going to use grade 8's or higher but I figured I'd ask for the real deal in case anyone had a set they could throw at me.

I need some parts to put my L28E - Into a 240Z The steel plate that fits between the block and the transmission. I also need the four drive shaft nuts and bolts, and a decent 225mm pressure plate. A light flywheel would also be nice. THANKS!

Downforce at 35mph!

Well duh! If a sticker is worth a few ponies.....this thing is like turboNOSsuperchargerMagnet-on-the-fuel-line!

Exhuming the dead... http://web.archive.org/web/20080207145751/http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

I have a ton of 76 parts all over my garage so if you need anything let me know. Mainly electronics/FI, and other stuff I have taken off of my 76. Nice buy!

They have been venting rads over the hood for a long time. I thought about how to do it in a Z but you would need a pretty tight shroud that split into a Y and went around the L motor and up. It would be easier with an LS swap. Here it is on a 350Z ...and a vette I love the fender vents on the vette!!

So that's how Darius funded his new Z.