LanceVance

Take a look at the 30th Anniversary kit for the ZX, it cleans the front end up a bit, and in my opinion makes it slightly[\i] more reminiscent of the S30. Custom anything is expensive, especially something as time consuming as body panels. Learn to do it yourself, or buy what is already available. Or have deep pockets!

I'd suggest you start looking at other S130s for inspiration, perhaps you'll find a front end setup that you like. S30 bumpers on an S130 will require a good deal of fabrication and custom body work (read: lots of money!). In the end it probably will look mismatched considering the more squared straight line styling of the S130's front end...

The first post's wording leaves something to be desired, but I believe the OP is looking for a rear disc conversion for an S30 that uses S130 components. That or a MM 240sx setup...

Glad it helped, seemed appropriate for your troubles. If you do get an FR-S post some seat measurements on the SEAT SWAP LIST page.

Just don't forget to drill a small hole on the bottom in case you ever leave it parked in the rain. Filling your entire exhaust up with water can't be good for anything! Know anything about this car Tony?

Not sure if this will help, but you might read THIS thread.

Bump, anybody else still have ads? I donated only a month or so ago...

Wish I had more to add, but I remember seeing someone use a small bungee cord (the kind with hooks on either end) to hang their caliper from the spring while changing rotors. This is probably cheaper, faster and simpler than adding anything to the car, and should work just as well. What kind of ducting (if any) are you running to prolong your brake's life? I've seen various ways of cooling calipers, from small air guides directed at the caliper, to heat sinks that go sandwiched in with the pad. Have you considered anything like that?

Exactly.

Milenko, Perhaps a low profile flush mounted vibration isolator would work for you? Try THESE (top left). Domzs, Solid mounting aluminum radiators has been shown to cause stress failures; you've got to add some sort of flexibility when mounting it to something that undergoes torsional stresses (i.e. the rad support).

I'm thinking a nice wooden mount and a spot on the garage wall is in order!

Not a bad idea... A large OD bushing with a small ID used to mate the splitter with the airdam should work well with the flexible front rods. Keep with the plastic bolts and I'll have multiple break points where I want them.

I'm afraid I don't have any progress to report. The Z is currently disassembled pending body and engine work (lots of modifications in the works); won't be going back together for some time! That said, I've been plotting how I'm going to mount it. The Tegris is incredibly strong, and in a low speed impact (i.e. speedbump, pothole etc) likely to destroy whatever it is mounted to before deforming itself. I've found some rods to support the leading edge that will bend and (hopefully) snap before damaging anything else. Found them at Longacreracing.com (under the misc section). As far as the trailing side goes I'm planning on glassing in a thin steel band to reinforce the airdam and then attaching the splitter with some plastic/nylon bolts. This should allow for separation without excess damage to any other body panels, and should keep things fairly lightweight to boot!

Glad you posted this, I was planning on looking this up when I noticed it in the new content!

Thanks! Looks like part no: 17672-002100 may be what I'm looking for. I've found a few other sources, but none with any pictures, so until I've got it in hand I'm not 100%. On a side note, while searching that part number I came across a post (On an Australian Skyline forum I believe) that indicated that a standard 45mm GReddy flange should be the appropriate size flange for this. I've ordered one, so I'll confirm when I have it in hand. The flange that came with the valve when I bought it is slightly smaller than the GReddy piece, and appears to create a choke point. That will teach me for not measuring off the gasket or actual body of the valve itself; it seems I've been chasing after some oddball part!

+1, You might consider selling these (or the design) to DIYAutotune.

I recently purchased an HKS pop off/diverter/blow off valve (whatever the appropriate term is) that I believe is the same piece that would have gone on an HKS Type 2 Surge tank for the Nissan L series motors (see pictures below). What I am hoping is that someone might have some documentation that would include some part numbers or any information that might help me track down an extra diaphragm for this part. The one I have is in good condition, but living in the west Texas desert means that rubber parts can be short lived... I'm also needing to track down a stainless flange for this, so I'm curious if anyone is familiar with the flange size? What modern BOVs would be compatible (easier to get a new flange if it matches a known new BOV) with this flange, for those of you not using the original piece? I've searched for information regarding the valve itself, but have come up empty handed, so now I'm hoping someone with the surge tank might have the information I need. The surge tank (including valve): My valve (more pictures in my gallery): Thanks to anyone that can help!

I tried to access HybridZ last night, and was directed to notification page advising that the site was down for updates. When I access the site this morning I noticed there is a new option under the user drop down menu called 'Client Area'? When selected it only takes you to an error screen. Also, the advertisements are back, even though I recently donated? Not a big deal, but I figure you would like to be made aware. Thanks for all the hard work keeping this site running! Edit: Client area option is gone now, advertisements still here though.

I've had multiple dealings with cockerstar here on HybridZ and everything has always been top quality and great service. The fuel rail and intake he did for me: You might PM him and see if he has any rails made up already...

I'd be interested pending price, and successful integration with MS. I've been looking for an HY35W, after coming to the conclusion there was no affordable way to control the VGT type turbos. Leave it to a HybridZ member to lead the way! I'd expect interest not only here, but people from the DSM and other circles to be interested.