LanceVance

I wasn't really planning on getting very technical here, just an arm switch and a WOT switch. Once I'm off the floor I'm off the juice which should work well enough for what I'm wanting out of it. Is a RPM window switch necessary for a set up like that? I don't really plan spending a lot of time bouncing off the rev limiter. I will be running MS, so the opportunity to upgrade will be present should I ever desire. I've been considering more and more just putting a small bracket within the intake pipe itself and mounting the nozzles to it. This would allow for optimum nozzle placement, and with solid mounting points (bulkhead fittings on the insertion end) should make vibration a non issue.

The owner made two large mistakes there: 1.) He left the bottle in the car while it was parked in the sun, on a hot day, for a prolonged period of time. This is a no-no, and there is no reason to do this with quick disconnects and bottle carriers so readily available. 2.) He used a tank that wasn't equipped with any sort of pressure relief valve. Any name brand, purpose built tank should have this safety feature. His has clearly failed, or more likely was never equipped with with one. Someone else's failure is hardly reason to give up something yourself. Just realize that you are working with something that is potentially hazardous. Educate yourself and use the proper safety measures and you'll be fine.

Glad to hear you got everything sorted. Perhaps you should forward your discourse with RA to AISIN so they are made aware of the issue?

I've been working on something similar, but much easier (and possibly cheaper, factoring in welding costs). It's not ready for prime time, but I'll shoot it to you in our PM conversation... Edit: PM sent!

You know that better than even I do! Let me know when your CNC rig is up and running and we'll see what we can come up with... I don't see the day every coming that I cut into that manifold Ryan! If I ever did, it would be a proper, no holding back direct port set up. Perhaps you could CNC me a dual channel fuel rail that stays in line with my penchant for cleanliness? Hmmmmm.... Here's a new question, any reason not to do something like this: The entry point could be hidden up near the rad support. A simple hard wire bracket could easily be made to support the ends keeping them from vibrating without blocking any measurable amount of air...

Something to consider, though I'd like to avoid doing extra ($$$) fab work. I'm running a ported manifold and weber TB, so I doubt there is a ready made piece like those using 240sx TBs. Long gone! I figured as much, but I was hoping someone would prove me wrong. Thanks much for the advice!

I've been contemplating putting together a simple wet nitrous system for my L28ET build and I wanted to throw out a few ideas out to get peoples opinions. Firstly, let me outline my wants for the set up: 1.) It has to be clean. I've spent a lot of time making the engine as clean as possible; everything will be tucked and shaved and having a bunch of extra lines running all over just won't do. I'm not trying to hide the fact that I'm using nitrous, in fact the tank will be in plain sight. 2.) It has to be simple. I will hardly ever have the opportunity to use it (think 2-3 strip visits per year), so a fancy direct port, multi nozzle system is overkill to the extreme. It's mostly about having fun for me, not being super competitive. 3.) It has to be affordable. I have no problem spending money on quality components (although I can do without the purple anno) and I don't plan skimping on things such as the tank or solenoids, areas where safety is concerned. But as I previously mentioned, multiple nozzles and fancy extras are not needed or wanted. Okay! Now my questions: My ideal place to mount to mount the nozzle would be the core plug on the back of my intake manifold. I like this because it is simple to drill out, and install the nozzle with a couple of nuts and some rtv, the plumbing is short, and the solenoids could easily be hidden in the cowl area without being far from the nozzle.. Besides the ease of mounting, it is also 100% reversible where drilling holes into my shaved manifold is not! The question here is will this be able to evenly fog the intake chamber despite being opposite the throttle opening? I'm no fluid dynamics engineer, but images of pissing into the wind come to mind... My second choice would be to mount the nozzle in the intake pipe, post intercooler, where it comes through the rad support. I've already found a nice low profile nozzle that could fit nice and snuggly at all the right angles, allowing for the plumbing to be tucked along the top of the fender. The issue here is the distance from the throttle body, and the recirculating BOV in between them; there is also the issue of the bends in the pipe creating the opportunity for pooling. Will I have issues if the BOV opens and some of the mixture gets sent through a hot turbo? Is the nozzle too far from the throttle body (everywhere I read says 6" is ideal)? Are the bends a big enough issue to make this unsafe? I'm having Casey (SenzaPari) fab up a nice pie cut piece for this section and the bends are looking very smooth and gradual... Lastly, I'd like to ask for any general advice, or ideas that you might have. I know I'm not the first to go down this route, so if you've got an idea that you think fits my plan then please share it! Thanks HybridZ members, and sorry for the trademark long winded post!

I wonder if one of the guys producing parts with a 3D printing rig would be able to make something out of a comparable material? On a side note, my Z didn't have any rubber parts around the switches. I wonder if I'm missing them, or if they simply weren't used on all models? I can't seem to find a picture of them mounted...

Have you tried email? It's on his YouTube videos...

I believe that is Jaime Kirste's Z. He is pretty well known in Guatemala for his collection of vintage J-tin. You might try your luck messaging him on FB: https://m.facebook.com/jaime.kirste?__user=100002593110402

I'll keep an eye out for a decent pair whenever I go to the junkyard, although I'm sure someone already has them on a parts car here. Out of curiosity, is the picture you posted your own, or something off the web? My 75's switches are different (no diamond shaped base, and one less wire on the pass. side).

This thread might have the information you need: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98751-suspension-bolts-inventory/?&gopid=1027251&do=findComment&comment=1027251

This: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107307-mustang-gt-grille/ + This: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-8200U/2005-09-Mustang-Gt-Eleanor-Style-Center-Fog-Front-Grille-Kit = Done! Reshaping the existing components will be extremely difficult unless you are already very experienced and crafty with custom body work. The fact that you are asking alludes to the contrary...

Copy that.

Doh! Searched everything except for what was already right in front of my face...

New engine and tranny mounts will be installed, so hopefully movement is minimal but I had planned to use these to connect the pipping to the rad support. Think I can get away with regular hoses on the engine? Glad I could help, though you may well get around to actually trying it out before I do! I'm still a good ways off from the body work stage...

Tony, Could you clarify this? Is 'SanDiego' the name of the publication? Plenty of magazines out there with San Diego in the title, but I came up empty handed looking for one that was one word, or that had to do with motorsports...

Sorry, couldn't resist!

It's a body kit for a 350z. Owners name is Danny Foo, you might try asking him about it on FB. https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151090486169704&id=626114703&set=a.10151090486159704.453719.626114703&__user=100002593110402

Austin's build definitely had some influence on my build, I'll admit. One of my favorite L28ET swaps out there...

Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve. Firstly, let me state my goals: 1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks. 2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier. 3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here. Problems: I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with. I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3". The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5" In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying! Whew! Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow. Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking? Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post! Discuss...

Big hole, yes. However, since I plan to mount it in the quarter window I'm able to avoid any extra body work, and I can easily swap in a stock piece later on, should I ever be so inclined. Another thing to consider is that mounting any switch that makes you unable to restart the car without exiting the vehicle could be disastrous should you ever find yourself in an accident that requires you to get out of the way in a hurry. I'm pretty sure there was an incident like that a while back where the driver had a minor collision, came to stop on the course and had the track worker immediately run up and kill it. Unfortunately he could only watch the track worker clear out of the way as another car came around the corner with no chance of avoidance. The car potentially could have made it off the course if only he could start it up again! Pretty sure one of the sanctioning bodies amended the rules to say the driver had to be able to reset any and all kill switches while still in harness...

I've been working on a similar project for my engine kill switch; It's not finished (Needs more grinding and powder coat), but it's getting there! Basically I took a sink drain from Home Depot, cut the bottom off, welded a washer over the hole, through which I'll connect the T-handle. The drain being threaded makes it very simple to mount with the large supplied nut, and a rubber gasket should seal it well enough should I ever get caught in some rain. The eventual plan is to replace the quarter windows with Lexan (I've got a 2+2, so they are a little larger) and cut a hole to mount this in: Edit: I'm still waiting for that PM with pictures of that fender-exit exhaust by the way!

Reading through Mark's blog should give you all the answers you need: http://www.rolston.me/NewSite/Z-Blog/Archive.html

The answer is simple. The efi tank (and early tanks too for that matter) has zero baffling, making the pickup prone to sucking up air during heavy acceleration, braking or cornering. A surge tank helps alleviate any fuel starvation issues caused by this, and is a great way to protect any high performance motor. Why swap tanks when you've already got to modify the fueling system regardless of what tank you've got? For most it is easier, cheaper and better for performance to just add a surge tank to whatever existing system is in place.