LanceVance

Can't go posting that without listing all the sizes/specifications!

I would say traditional unless you have some red accents elsewhere (calipers, etc.).

The IAT Sensor can be mounted anywhere from the intake manifold to the intake filter. There are pros and cons to each position. Factors to consider include vibration, heat soak, sensor type (and subsequent reading times and durability), whether the engine is going to be NA or turbocharged, tracked or daily driven, so on and so fourth. I would recommend reading through some of the discussions on the different Megasquirt forums to learn more. Or just put it behind the throttle like Tony! You'll find that's what most people are doing (including myself).

Seems like a BMW Powered S30 that isn't far from you could provide something of a compromise... http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4657325505.html

I'd rather run a used quality piece than a new piece of questionable quality. Piping is one if the few things I'd make an exception for (although I did spend some good money on having a more complicated section in one piece rather than stacking a bunch if segments and couplers together). I picked up a lightly used Treadstone for $50 locally... Just keep an eye on CL until something that suits you comes up!

Anything done to the cabin side of things here?

Old hotrodders trick to accelerate this was to remove the door cover panels and use a ratcheting strap to pull the doors inward. Haven't done it with the Z, but perhaps you could give it a go?

Happy Birthday Tony! here is a little gag gift:

Same here and I agree, but I'll be looking for the hopped up SOHC heads that get sold off to be replaced by these... Vulture mentality for the win!

Only option I can think of with the stock wheel would be to sacrifice another wheel for its splined base. Removing the arms and drilling/tapping the extra base would allow you to attach your wheel (which would also need to be drilled) in the same fashion as an aftermarket wheel. You could probably use a trimmed rubber MOMO hub adapter cover to cover the whole assembly too?

What wheel are you running?

Lots of good pictures of different Bob Sharp cars, definitely worth a look! Click here to see the thread: theThrottle

Any reason you don't remove the cooler assembly and install a standard stud?

This would be really neat if you covered/consealed it with 'props' (Think old leather luggage set, spare tire, etc...).

If you read the entire conversation you can clearly tell he is using your photo to demonstrate the layout differences between an SR and an L series. He makes no claims implying it is his.

Out of curiosity, did you have a source for the rubber portion?

Hope he has a nice set of hydrospanners...

Funny you should say that... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117108-star-road-style-bumper-deletes/

Put some more thought into this and came up with a different plan of action for everyone to consider/weigh in on. Would there be anything wrong with drilling/tapping the heater fitting (PN. 27195-E4400, I believe) at the back of the head to provide a port for the BMW sensor? I'm figuring this should be close enough to the coolant stream, not to mention the problematic rear cylinders to provide an accurate and rapidly responsive reading. ...Also, the sensor is rather bulky so hiding it towards the back, angled downwards is an extra plus!

Any reason why? Ease of installation? Price? Quality? Completeness? I'm interested in this as well...

Found this while doing some browsing for something completely unrelated, but remembered this thread: http://carandwriter.blogspot.com/2012/05/datsun-west-coast-z-car-nationals-2012.html?m=1 Body kit is... Well let's just ignore the body kit. Engine photo can be found further down the page.

Everything you mention comes up for sale from time to time (albeit rarely), with exception of the 2+2 hatch. Finding a CF hatch for a 2+2 is going to be nigh on impossible... Good luck with your search!

Yes; you must be a donating member to post in the parts or cars for sale sections.

You must be a donating member to post in the 'for sale' sections of the forum.

Six Shooter gives a few valid reasons… In my case, multiple days of 110° on the daily’s dash display are enough to get me thinking about additional cooling measures for just about every component that can suffer from heat induced failure or malfunction. I drive my vehicles like a get-away driver, so anything I can do to extend the life of components is worth consideration. In regards to the Salt Flats, I do plan on someday taking both the Z and the STi (Once the motor is built) to the flats. The only issue I foresee is talking the wife into driving a tow vehicle that far. And brake ducts are in the works as well! Something to consider; only problem is I’m planning an extensive under-tray so airflow will most likely be insufficient to make all that work worthwhile. As I said in the first post, I’ve got most of the components to put my proposed system together. Here are the components so far: Carter Mechanical Fuel Pump (PN: M60107) – Need to determine fitting size to convert to -AN Perma-Cool Remote Oil Thermostat (PN: 1060) Perma-Cool Remote Filter Mount (PN: 1791) WIX Transmission Oil Filter (PN: 51622) Longacre Sending Unit (PN: 43252) – to be hooked up to ‘dummy light’ on dashboard Spectra Premium Radiator (PN: B634) I found this diagram (Along with most of the components listed above) on a Bronco website (Click HERE if you’re interested in seeing it yourself) of all places. Guy designed a layout that did everything I wanted using as few fittings/components as possible. I may eventually tweak things to better suit my application, but for now this is what I’m looking at: And for those who, like me, were unfamiliar with how the thermostatic valves actually flow I’ve included this nifty animation that I found: Only thing that will be different would be the mechanical pump obviously (placement pending… suggestions?)