Litman

I have a set of rear calipers pulled from my '83ZXT. I will track them down to capture a couple images for you.

PM sent

This: Pulled from a '76. In the event RB doesn't hook you up.

I have these 27 spline 280Z stubbies to offer. Boxed and ready for shipment. $125 plus shipping

I have a few left over pieces from my restoration project. All are new/unused and still in their original packaging - MSA door seals (76801 & 76802) $120 ($180 when purchased) - MSA hatch seal (59-853) $60 ($70 when purchased but NLA)

A few additional comments concerning how we used the jacks that you may want to factor in your decision. The regulator pressure setting we used was enough to get the car to jump up quickly since elapsed time for changing tires was paramount. For non-racing situations I don't see why a lower pressure couldn't be used. We almost never worked under the car when only elevated using the air jacks. We used bottle shaped braces that slid around the shaft of the air jack. It was mandatory by Grand Am/Tudor rules. About the only time I would go under the car while on air jacks was to change camber or toe while on the scales. It was easier since the car was going up and down a lot to check then change settings. If you do end up adding a set to your car make sure you lubricate them often. They will stick in the down position.

Keith, I have some experience with these. All of the cars in Grand Am and now Tudor use air jacks. The stated pressures are high. We ran 150psi off the bottle. Granted the RX8s and Daytona Prototypes we ran were only ~2400lbs but you likely wouldn't need much more for the Z. We also ran no valve so as soon as you remove the wand the car crashed down. Good times for the driver changer. A lot of the Porsche cars used a valve which lowered the car more gingerly. One cautionary statement: on really hot days the feet of the air jacks would sink into black top. If you weren't careful you could damage the system by attempting to drive away with one stuck in the asphalt. Luckily the vast majority of pit boxes are concrete. If you are serious and need specific information give me a call or shoot me a message. I'll get whatever info I can from the race team.

PM sent

Glad to hear you liked the ST-43. I am still very pleased with the performance of these pads having now done four weekend enduros with the Subaru, all on the same set. Keep us informed of your experience as you use them more (track, auto-X and street).

PM sent

As luck would have it I just disassembled the clock out of a '76 to convert over to Speed Hut gauges. After removing the clock mechanism I connnected it to a 12V source. Over the course of 48 hours it kept perfect time. It is obviously available if you would like.

I have a pedal set (just pedals, not box) from my '71 if you are inclined to go that route. They are out of the car and ready for delivery.

PM sent

I have a complete '89 300Z turbo automatic that I ultimately intend to part out. I wasn't planning on doing that just yet. What is your timing?

PM replied to

Dual pipes are easily achievable with the F-body fuel tank. I centered my tank then built the exhaust around it using 2 1/2" tubing and Magnaflow offset/offset oval mufflers with a 14" body.

If you fail to find one locally I do have an N42 head from a '76 280Z; located in NY.

Did I totally misread your post? I thought it originally said glove box door. Guess I need to slow down and pay more attention.

I have three 240Z glove box doors from very good condition to less than very good. Pictured is the best one. Note: the chrome on the badge is complete. The image below makes the chrome look discontinuous. It is not. Pictured door would be $50 shipped. The next step down is complete but would need silver paint on the DATSUN 240Z badge as the chrome has worn. $35 shipped. Lastly is the lowest quality door which is missing its DATSUN 240Z badge. $20 shipped. If you want images of either of the other two please let me know.

I have a pair of washer nozzles from my '71. Complete with screws! (not that this is a huge deal). Anyway, off of the car and ready for shipment. PM me with an offer. Cheers

PM sent

I have a new in box set of Tokico Illumina BZ3015 shocks. $250 plus shipping.

Unfortunately your sub 60 second effort did nothing to answer his original question

You are correct (see my initial post). They were originally used on my G35C carbon fiber hood. I got lucky that they worked equally well on the fiberglass Z hood given the difference in mounting geometry.

Both of my measurements were made end to end. Your logic on selecting a higher than necessary rating is sound provided it is a steel hood. If you have a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood I would NOT do that. From experience (experimenting with my G35 CF hood) a shock with too much load will flex and potentially crack a composite hood.