Litman

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My local pick-a-part had a '76 as of two weeks ago. I pulled the dash but left the harness. All of the wiring was there last I knew. I could go there Saturday if you are still in need.

I have a T5 from an '83ZXT with 132k miles. The driveshaft was sold some time ago though. $200 plus shipping for the T5.

I just want to add to David's comment about the Raybestos ST43 pads on my Chump car. We ran three races (Summit Point 10hr, Watkins Glen 15hr and Pittsburgh Intl 10hr) with the same set of ST43 pads on stock (Impreza RS) rotors. There has been negligible wear to both the pads and the rotors. Additionally very little dust considering how much we were abusing them. Immediate bite. No fade. I find these pads to be truly amazing. They are quite possibly the only part on the car that allows us to pass people. When you only have 100whp you have to take people DEEP into corners to pass. Like I said, we abused these pads and have all been extremely pleased with their performance.

There is a '76 280 in the local pick-a-part. I could inspect and extract whichever regulator you need either Fri or Sat of this week.

Nice steering wheel and horn pad from a '76. Looks like you have plenty of options.

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I have a pair of new in box Tokico Illumina BZ3015s. According to a previous post by John Coffey they will work for the 240Z and 280Z although you will need the 280Z specific gland nut. John C post from 2009 - "The BZ3015 and BZ3012 are identical in all respects. The part number difference has to do with the gland nut: M48 x 1.5p for the 240 and M51 x 1.5p for the 280. Either shock will fit in the 240 or 280 strut tubes. The 280 strut tubes have a larger OD and ID then the 240 strut tubes."

Like this?

LLave, Still a work in progress. I'll provide details via PM when they are sorted, as to not hijack sr's post.

FYI - fitting the fronts is crazy. Maybe even ludicrous. Custom hats. Custom brackets. Hub modification. Very little room for error. Rears are a piece of cake by comparison. EVO IX MR Brembos with Wilwood rotors and Wilwood/custom hats. Still in fab mode.

If I understand your request correctly I have a very nice set

I have a set of Tokico BZ 3015's, NIB $250 shipped

I have left over 3" SS exhaust pipe that you can angle cut (actually I think one piece is already angle cut). It is polished but you can rough it up for a more subtle look. Used the same approach on the Tsi AWD and it looked quite nice. Yours for a cerveza.

The identification Zzeal provided is correct for both DBW and cable. I have the harness still in the box for my LS1/T56 conversion. Looking at the harness and the instructions there is only one unterminated pink wire which connects to your switched 12V supply. The orange should be hooked to a constant 12V source. I expect the pink wire splits after the switched 12V supply then runs through fuses on the way to the ignition/injection and fuel pump. Since my harness is laying in the box as delivered from Speartech if you need images or further analysis let me know.

I have one that is nearly rust free should you still be in need. Boxed and ready for delivery.

Hence my original question

As mentioned in my previous post these are factory hood vents from my '83 turbo. Unfortunately one mounting stud per vent is broken. $25 shipped if you are interested.

What style are you looking for? I have hood vents pulled from my '83ZXT.

I have exactly what you are requesting. Black 17 tooth 3.54 ratio. $25 plus shipping

I have a set pulled from my '71 if RB26 isn't able to meet your needs.

I have a stock exhaust manifold, j-pipe and turbo outlet if things don't work out with 340ZX. Parts are in the Southern Tier of NY so not too terribly far away. Too far to drive but shipping might be more reasonable. Pictures can be provided if you would like.

It is close but fits quite nicely. I pre-assembled the hood, fenders and grill during the design and fabrication phase. Actually I placed a piece of green foam (flower arrangement stuff) on the core support and closed the hood. The compressed shape showed me the opening size and contour. Using this and the measurements from the AFE intake I calculated what depth the notch needed to be. Turns out the OE hood bulge is perfectly located for this specific retrofit. I did have to flip the AFE intake 180 degrees (inlet to outlet) as it provided the appropriate distance from the TB and angle to place the filter behind the grill. Thanks for the compliments guys.

Scott Attig Wizard Cooling (W) 716-655-6760 (F) 716-655-6761 Great guy to work with. 1TuffZ put me onto them.

Sorry for my mental lethargy. I forgot about our previous interactions on this topic. I suppose the answer to your question is, it depends. I suspect you can make the radiator short enough and tilt the radiator but will it retain the necessary cooling attributes ? What I can do is take my shortened radiator and see how it would have to be positioned to allow a C5/C6 Corvette intake to pass. I believe, without evidence, that your best bet will be tilting the radiator forward as the TB is about even with the core support. Tilting the radiator back will cause more interference than less. The attached picture may help support my point.