Litman

Determining the proper shock rating based upon hood weight is a fairly complex calculation. If I were you I would use a local parts supply (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and test, return, test, return. Maybe your math skills are better than mine.

Josey, I had no idea a kit like this existed. I made my own that is shockingly similar, simply because I had the shocks left over from my G35. They are lightweight because I have a fiberglass hood but I could at least give you the compressed and extended lengths and you could experiment with load rating. To make these I pilfered four connection balls from VWs, cut two flush and welded them to the hinge and made L-brackets for the other two. I had to play around a lot with mounting location to get the distances correct for full compression and full extension. Works extrememly well with my hood. Model I used: Suspa C16-13313 Extended length: 13" Compressed length: 9"

Images. Fronts are 14x6. Rears are 14x7. Lightly oxidized. My plan was to remove the tires, give them a good cleaning with scotch brite then make some buyer happy.

I have a set of true Shelby's that I have been hanging on to. I will capture some images to send to you. Depending on where in PA you are they might be within driving distance.

Similar concept I originally made for my car. The foremost "T" that holds the valence in position is rubber coated to protect the valence. The bolted end is slotted so you can adjust it fore and aft. Actually I no longer need this as my front valence will attach to the splitter. I would be willing to part with this brace if it could work for you.

Perhaps a silly question but are the door panels you are looking for actually silver and blue or are you looking for door panels for a silver and blue ZX? The reason I ask is that I have the door panels from my '83 ZXT which had a burgundy exterior and silver interior. The door panels are black with a silver (grey) carpeted lower portion. Forgive my naivete but I am not overly knowledgeable about S130s.

Had my friend measure his Corbeau A4s. Looks like ~23" to the harness holes. They are a narrower seat and would definitely fit nicely in a Z.

Nice job David. Glad we could get it sorted out for you

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I have a full set pulled from a '76. The panels are in very good condition. The chrome on the bezels is not attractive.

I have the set from my '71. They are tight but not new. The spring retainer on the driver's side is mangled so you would have to move that over from your current set. I could get them out via FedEx tomorrow.

Here are the two seats I have access to: Corbeau LG1 narrow seats (240Z): 22" from seat surface to bottom of shoulder harness hole. These seats have a fair amount of padding so that distance will increase when you sit in them. Sabelt Race seats (LeMons/Chump Car): 25" from seat surface to bottom of shoulder harness hole. This measurement will not change since you are essentially sitting on the fiberglass shell. It is a true race seat with no padding. Works great for road course type situations. I can get the same measurement on Corbeau A4 seats as a friend is using them in his Catterham 7. Let me know if you desire this measurement. Also, 1TuffZ has fixed back Corbeau seats in his '73 and is a fairly tall fellow. Not sure of the model. Perhaps he can add dimensions to the list. Additionally he drove my Chump Car so I believe the 25" distance worked for him. David, any feedback?

Based on your initial post I would say stop wearing jeans with bedazzled rear pockets. If you go the rattle can paint route I would suggest the following: Sand with 180 or 220 grit paper. Paint likes mechanical grip Clean with PPG DX330 or a similar wax remover/de-greaser Spray SEM self etching primer (local auto paint shops or Eastwood) Hit it with 320 grit paper if you want it to be pretty Use pretty much any commercially available paint such as Rustoleum or Duplicolor. I prefer SEM.

I believe this is the beastie you are looking for. I saved the entire brake line set-up from my '71 so unless something changed in '72 this should be it. I would do the same $25 shipped as Borini.

My LS1 with the aforementioned Street Sweeper is making exactly 0 WHP & 0 WTQ and doesn't sound overly mean. In other words the motor is on a cradle while I am block sanding the shell.

Hood release cable and bracket pulled from my '71. Excellent condition. Ready for shipment. $25 plus shipping.

I have from Motorsport Auto the following, new and still sealed in their packages: RH Door Weatherstrip (Seal) P/N 78601 (new number is 34-1075A) $69.95 @ MSA LH Door Weatherstrip (Seal) P/N 78602 (new number is 34-1074A) $69.95 @ MSA Rear Deck Inner Weatherstrip (Seal) P/N 59-853 (new number is 34-1140A) $69.95 @ MSA I'd sell them for $180 shipped. That's 15% off the MSA prices plus free shipping.

I have this strut bracket. It was cut from the car so the outer body portion is still attached (spot welds). Rust free. Would $15 shipped be acceptable?

Ah. Different part. Unfortunately I do not currently have any.

Are you looking for the upper liner or rear liner? If you are looking for the rear upright pieces I have the later plastic version which I believe your car uses.

Ok. Measured the lip on the well I have so you have enough information to make your decision. There is a minimum of 1/4" lip around the well with the exception of the rearmost point where the well runs straight into the taillight panel.

Looks like approximately $30. It is not very heavy (18lbs) but is a bit bulky as you can imagine.

I have this spare tire well removed from my '71. Overall very nice condition. Light surface rust on the inside. Very good on the underside (undercoating still there). The lip is primarily intact. $25 plus shipping.

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Just extracted a very nice set from a '76 280Z. 1 tuff z has first dibs but if you are unable to strike a deal with him give me a shout.