softopz

Looking good did you by any chance put the hatches on a scale? Iam asking because my hatch strut doesnt hold up the hatch its a 240 so its got only 1. The other day the damn thing fell on me (i had a rubber hammer wedged in while I was replacing a rear bulb but it slipped out) Just wondering if a carbon fibre hatch falling would be a significant in pain and weight hehe.

Hey guys basically the subjects explains whats happening, however before this happened I upgraded to the zx internally regulated. The car is a 240z With l28et I followed the write up but it didnt go well. I removed the external regulator and spliced the white black with black white wire with a diode so it doesnt feedback and leave the car on. I believe thats the L terminal which is the Base of "T" shape connector. On my alternator its not labelled L I have F and N anywho it should be still the same cause the alternator is from a zx and starts with l60.... moving on . The S terminal which is the top of the T connector is suppose to be spliced yellow to white wire (which is a 12 v always on) this is the problem here that wire got really hot I turned it off. I re read the article for the swap thats suppose to go straight to the batterey to provide feedbakc to alternator. With that wire un plugged I can hear the alternator whine and charge except its like overcharging Iam getting like 13-16 v at idle and if I rev it up it even goes to 17 18 !!! my battery is going to explode cause I hear squeeling it out acide :S AND if I leave that wire in it gets warm reaaaal fast and burn I tried another another wire that goes straight to batterey and same thing happens. Iam really stumped at this point. Any advice guys?

Another rb 16x8 user

Whats the deal with copper gaskets are they any good? Dont mean to get off your subject but as I was reading I had the same thoughts as 1fastz. I guess whoever decked it didnt do a good enough job.

I also conquer use the one with all the ports thats my felpro also blocked some holes till I went and got a 76 headgasket set> I believe it had all the ports

Yes winrar, winzip win it all. I was hoping your car would start dude. did you put new plugs?pull out your plugs let your cylinders dry a bit and get new plugs. edit yes my car does run with this tune I just got it going 2 weeks ago and tuned with a wideband. I put new plugs and a new battery thats what did it for me. And the coil pack wiring was wrong. So with the edis coil pack with the plug down. the first terminal is wired to 2 and 5 the middle one is 3 and 4 the last one is 1 and 6 did you get any errors or messages when loading my msq? Like did it say different code version or something? edit 2 how are your injectors wired?

Here you go. I was right your cranking and priming pulsewidths are really HIGH no wonder why your flooding. Get some new plugs and make sure your battery is topped up good luck squirter! First Tune.rar

What did it for me was deciphering the firing order , getting a fresh batterey and plugs. Vrooom it started. if you got all the ms side of things perfect than you need to start looking at the other forces. However I didnt understand your last message, so are you getting a proper tach signal? You need to run the Hall only not HAll and VR. Have you checked your timing with a light? whats ms showing in rpm when cranking? Hows your fuel pressure? how does that spark look if you hook up a plug to it and lay it on some metal ? Sometimes we overlook the basic things spark , fuel and air. then timing. edit Ill send you a copy of my msq we have an identical setup. Except for wideband. I just re looked at some of your cranking pulses and priming they seem high but I cant remember how mine are.

It works ! at first I burnt a fuse thinking I must of wired it wrong but it was a 3 amp fuse so I put in a 25 and its working great I love it. Now to figure my alternator issues!

Perfect thats what I was looking for, when searching I got confused with board mods. So the only mods you do is when you are using the OTHER spare outputs you gotta upgrade the transistor than it will drive a relay. But pin 30 can flow enough to drive a relay there it is for the archives! I am going to try this later tonight Ill let you guys know how it went down.

Hey guys Iam trying to get my electric fan to work with my ms 2 setup. I searched but most searches come up for ms1 setups. Iam reading this link and its not that clear to me. The are things that are unclear 1. ms2 has spare outputs that are capable of 1 amp So will this be a ground fired system? through a relay? in the megamanual it says I need a transistor I thought it was built in? "The following outputs need a transistor to drive a relay or a solenoid (if you just want to activate the LED, such as for a shift light, no changes are required to the hardware): " 2. I would like to use pin 30 fidle whats the PM2 for? Note that the FIdle circuit on the relay board is limited to 1.1 Amps by the polyfuse. The relay is capable of handling much more current, but the traces on the relay board are NOT. If you wish to use the FIdle relay, do not use it to drive a device that requires more than 1.1 Amps (though you can use it to drive a second relay and control much more current - like an electric fan relay) Electric Cooling Fan Control Another example is electric electric cooling fan control. We will turn it on 180°F and off at 170°F, using the relay board FIdle output to control a separate cooling fan relay (the traces on the relay board may not have enough current capacity to control your fan directly): FIdle (PM2) Port PM2, FIdle enabled variable = coolant > threshold = 180, hysteresis = 10, AND variable = rpm > threshold = 450, hysteresis = 10, (fan will not run while cranking - you can add any second condition that works for you, of course) Power-on value = 0 Trigger value = 1 Of course you can change the conditions to suit your vehicle. Note that changing the FIdle port settings (PM2) does not affect the operation of the stepper IAC settings and ports. You can still use the IAC stepper functions for controlling idle speed during warm-up (just select one of the stepper options for idle control). Note that the settings will depend on whether you have an NC (normally closed) or NO (normally open) relay, so you must check that the fan works as you think it should. Its really late could be why its not sinking with me. Any of you guys running fan control off your spare outputs? If you could clear things for me it would be great!

Thats exactly what I have a 90 degree 3/8 barbed fitting there. Problem with this is your picking up crud at bottom of tank> I dont know how long that walbro is going to last I should put an inline see through filter. Just dont know which to go with yet. Oh I thought it was a reserve tank what an odd thing. I got rid of it . Too many fuel vent hoses going into the car its bad enough with the l28et fumes and 240z holes that will be needing to plug.

pallnet is right on the money however you dont need to drop the tank to access the top 3 vents. I just recently did this its tight but saves you the time of dropping the tank. The fuel filler also could be a leaking point if the clamp or hose is cracked or not tight.

I dont know about the filler strap but you can get a j bolt off a hardware store most likely or cut a batterey j bolt laying around if you got an extra. Nigel and TonyD thanks for that I recently got the l28et finally running in the 240z and I was contemplating the 280z tank or surge tank idea. Since my 240 tank is leaking at the sender (prolbally O ring) and is also leaking from pick up, return or vent (it looks like its crappily brazed on there) I know what I am going to do now. Dont want to hijack but I would like to ask a couple questions if I keep the 240z tank Is it a good idea to remove reserve tank and plug the vents?Theres too many! How about the reserve tank I saw a post here someone using the reserve tank as a surge tank.

very clean work that your doing KEEP IT Up

Today I put the plug that makes the proper jumpers with the diode. I found that now the car is running great and charging. The batterey at idle is showing 13v-14.5 However when I am driving the gauge in megatune is showing 16 v and even too 16.6 and changes to yellow. Which is concerning me I dont want to overpower anything and burn anything. Could it be the alternator I have is not internally regulated? I am pretty sure the listing showed it for a zx.

I doubts its the weather we been getting consistant weather this past month. Well today we put a fresh set of plugs and I got a new batterey... the car started real well, held a good idle. I played around with injector control settings and the car didnt like simaltaneous squirts, So i left it the way it was which your right TONY I drove it around for awhile it was running real good!. We did a little bit of tuning. I got the brakes working again its was the check valve not properly put in. I still have lots of little things left to complete like fan control. But the real test is tomorrow and after tomorrow to see if it starts it seems like plugs get fould up fast even after some tuning!? Since I did all my engine swap, ms2 , bushings, suspension and brake upgrades all at once there is lots of things to "break in" There is a loud bang while driving on bumps coming from either control arm or bump stop lots of finalizing touches left! But my main issue is my charging system. Seems like my alternator is not charging according to MS Iam getting 11.6-12.3 V from the gauge in Megatune. I think Iam only running the power left in batterey since its new it drove really nice. A little history on the alternator I figured I would upgrade to internally regulated alternator from a 280zx and I bought that plug that guy makes I think Zmanofwashington off zcar so I didnt have to splice anything. I Removed the external voltage regulator, plugged in the T shape connector that use to connect to another T shape on the old alternator. This time it goes directly to alt. Put my ground on and positive taht runs to fuse.box/starter, and then added that plug it melted after a while!? well not allot of it but one wire leaded into the diode inside the plug. Tony is there a better way of upgrading alternator with out that hassle. I dont mind now splicing some wires not sure which ones. I have 3 other alternators at home which Ill swap and test to see maybe this "new" ebay alternator is just crap. So if I upgrade to internally regulated alternator what do I do with the plug that use to run to external voltage regulator. The car is a 71 240z with l28et.

i got em http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=152662

I do have a 300zx ecu chopper wheel, turbo injectors, turbo dizzy, ignitor +coil and MAF you can get a z31 harness or make your own. check out ashfins writeup http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250 You can also run nistune. the ecu on the 280zxt is pretty old technology. analogue vs digital z31 your call