vashonz

I never messed with the stock ECU too much, But on SDS you set what MAP range and RPM range to run in closed loop. They recommend that closed loop only be used at low map values and ~1500-3500 rpm (basically crusing). If you try to run closed loop under boost or at higher RPMs it can cause bad stuff (14.7 AFR is generally too lean). So basically I agree with brad and mario. It sounds normal to me.

I'm running 245-45-16 on a 16x8.5" wheel, and it looks really good, much narrower and it would probably "bulge" out too much. And its not "stretched" at all.

This is the closest I could find. http://www.scca.com/Club/Index.asp?IdS=0FC065-823FBE0&x=030|057&~= "9.3.26. FUEL CELL SPECIFICATIONS All cars must be equipped with a safety fuel cell complying with these specifications, except for Showroom Stock, Touring, Spec Miata, and Improved Touring. All safety fuel cells shall be constructed and certified in accordance with the FIA FT-3 or higher (FT-3.5, FT-5, etc.) specifications. All safety fuel cells shall consist of a foam-filled fuel bladder enclosed in a metal container at minimum. "

Finally got the coilovers, brakes, LSD and new wheels installed. And a short youtube video

I just got mine outside for the first time, It looks really good. Still needs some wetsanding and polishing, but is way better than before.

Stock Turbo puts the AFM in before the turbo, it's designed to measure air flow at atmospheric pressure, not above. If you do that you -should- be able to use the stock J pipe.

What about using the subtle Z fender, then adding ZG flares? Has anyone tried this? I think it should work.

All my autometer guages came with sending units, I just installed those. Why do you need to bench test them? are you just making sure the guage works? or are you trying to calibrate it? is there a way to check the cal? (I do some guage cal at work)

If you want inexpensive ones get some from a VW rabbit (don't know years) they are made of rubber, and have a couple obvious points to cut to make them whatever length you want. I ran these for a few years before upgrading to poly.

But was it african or european?

72lb/hr is ~750cc/min. SDS only does batch fire, so I'm guessing every revolution. Fuel pressure starts at ~38PSI at idle and goes up from there. I'm using a 1:1 Aeromotive FPR. I don't know what the minimum on time is. I'll try to get out there and look at the duty cycle at idle.

SDS can do it, megasquirt can do it, I'm guessing that TEC can too. SDS does it by using 2 set of injectors that are the same size. One set is used up to a certain pulse width, after that point it starts firing the second set but cuts the pulse width in half. This give it a smooth transition. I'm running 72lb/hr MSD injectors and it idles fine, these should flow enough fuel for 700hp, although I doubt I'll get close to that.

I've got a pair of bz3016 I'll let go for cheap.

All the different Hydraulic standards always confuse me. I would check out what BMW does. Or even get the fittings from a JY(cutting -3 tubing is easy) Then just re-flairing the hardline with the new fittings. Another solution would be to go to a reputabe hydraulics shop. I know a good one around here, but I don't know about Maryland. You might try checking on the thomas register. If you're not set on using a hard line it might be easier to make a braided line. Eh, I was thinking clutch but typing brake.

Any recomendations on which fluid to run? I've heard GL-5 is can be bad for diffs that have brass parts inside them. I'm also confused on the different additives people use, I know viscous diffs need a certain one, but certain additives cause a clutch type diff to slip.

Why do you need a bleed valve in your brake line? Most people use the bleed vavles on the master cylinder and on the slave cylinder. Or is there somthing I'm missing or is your application not stock?