vashonz

Just the handle-looks (most likely wrong for the car) The entire assembly- give your passenger more room (240sx parking brake is on the driver side), looks different(tie dye is different too) Unless I'm missing somthing, I see no reason to do it.

Set it on fire. Use thermite if you got it. It will not have a miss on the first or second cyl anymore. Seriously, get a haynes/chilton manual, use their trouble shooting guide. My guess is plug wires.

http://www.full-race.com/

The other thing is that the turn signals are lower than on most z cars, this give it a "droopy" look. Without the bumper to split the opening it exagerates how tall it looks.

obstruction/crimp between fuel pressure gage and fuel injector is my guess. less flow through injector ->lean more backpressure -> *indicated* fuel pressure goes up Unless the gage is mounted on the fuel rail. Then my guess is clogged injector.

I already stripped the inside out of this (located above the diff on the passenger side), but I thought that was the 10# back pressure valve. But I thought wrong. Then: Is he describing the same piece? or is there somthing else down there. The only other thing I saw was the distribution block (inlet - R outlet - L outlet) This is what I was looking for, reassurance that I had found all the valves.

Heres a quick picture of what I was thinking.

You should not have to cut anything, you may have to remove the material covering the strut towers to get at the top nut.

I just installed 12" wilwoods and 240sx disks in my 240, I cleared out the residual pressure valve in the back. And am now getting ready to install an inline adjustable proportioning valve. My question is if I clear out (remove piston and spring) from the stock proportioning valve is this "REALLY BAD"? The master cylinder has 2 lines running to the proportioning valve, and it would seem that the moveable piston inside the valve keeps the front and rear parts of the brake system seprate. If I remove the pison it will effectively make it so from the master cylinder into one BIG cylinder. If that happens I why does it matter which resovioir on the master cylinder goes to the front and to the rear? Should I just install a "T"(in place of the stock proportioning valve) and separate the front and rear systems completely? Sorry if this is confusing, I have trouble putting things into words. I'll draw a picture later when I have more time.

I paid a local shop $75 to install the lsd carrier into my R200. I was a little nervous doing it myself and I trust this shop.

I'll probably be getting rid of my rear sway bar that I bought from MSA (not sure what brand, but it goes underneath the driveshaft instead of behind the diff), I'm getting rid of it because it interferes with my CVs.

Good luck finding one around here without rust. I'm on my 3rd 240z from washington, and there is ALWAYS rust you don't see initially.

That is really clean. The underside of your car is cleaner than the outside of mine.

Ulitma GTR with an LS7 or an LT5, its not really a hybrid, but damn is it cool. Have you seen the "DuRocco"? [EDIT TO ADD LINK] http://www.durocco.com/ Twinstar style car done on the cheap with 2 VW engines.

Starlet again. OR even a Pulsar, It probably wouldn't look good with fender mirrors, but its reliable and gets good mileage.

I would check the plug wires. I had a problem where my RPMs were jumping all over the place, and it was due to cracked ignition cable insulation. This caused interference with the tach signal. When I replaced the cables, the problem was solved. This was with SDS, but I imagine the megasquirt may be similar.

So you know you got spark. The only other thing is fuel. Unless of course your timing is off. I would say retard the spark by another 10 degrees. j/k Seriously, when you tested for spark was the plug in the tailpipe? or was it being grounded against somthing else. you might try running a wire from the ground on the plug to the ground on the coil. For fuel, try spraying lighter fluid in there (BUT BE CAREFUL), that will give you an idea if there is enough fuel. Also although I'm probably the only person with a 240z who is running a cat, if you have one it probably effects the amount of fuel left unburnt in the exhaust.

With the tokico springs and shocks I installed on my 240z the lowering springs were not under any pressure when the strut assembly was removed from the car, but there was not 3" of play. I don't know if a 280z is that much different. The tokico illumina rear struts I have had a spacer like you described. I don't know if this will help you at all, but I have the suspension I pulled off my 240z, from the control arm to the top of the strut. Also have both stock and Tokico (lowering) springs. I'll probably just be throwing this stuff away. I will let most of it go for a whistle.

Me too. PM sent.

RE: 1-I didn't see the episode, but I always like it when theres a fast turbo Dodge/Chrysler minivan that just smokes everything.

Last time it snowed here I saw 5 guys stopped in the middle of the road trying to figure out how to put chains onto their car. It was not a bad idea as there was a long icy hill infront of them (I had just come down it). I stopped when I saw that they were putting the chains on the rear, of an Integra. I told them that it was a FWD car, but I'm not sure they understood english, and my spanish was too rusty to do much good.

My toy, 2005 R1 supposedly it makes 180 hp. I don't know because I can never find a need to use it all. Most of the time I live in Guam where I can do double the speedlimit anywhere on the island in 1st gear. My last one was a '97 VFR750, way more comfortable than the R1, and it seemed easier to ride fast. Then I crashed it.

Pull harder. If there is oil in the housing (there should be) it can hydraulically lock the insert in there. There was a thread recently about drilling holes in the tube, search for that for solutions.

Have them in hand. One thing that was recommended to me was to put the strut in the tube and put the nut on the while tacking them together. Doing this aligns the 2 halfs almost perfectly. I did this and only use a welding magnet to hold them together. The strut inserts slid in and out of the housing easily and without grinding/sanding the inside at all.

Oh, I just realized. Its a twin scroll manifold, so each side needs to have a wastegate to bypass the turbine. So they used 2 instead of plumbing both into a common wastegate in order to keep it completely separate.