vashonz

pallnet makes some really nice ones. You also might try looking in the classifieds.

My experience is that motrin is good stuff. It does a good job at getting rid of inflamation and swelling. If you can get it (perscription) Mobic is even better, does the same thing as motrin, except that its one stronger, and did not make me loopy. But then neither did Vicoden (I took 2 and still was able to function fine, I drove around all afternoon before anyone told me I shouln't)

SDS is good. Right now I'm running MSD 72lb/hr injectors (about 750cc/min) with an older EM3. These are really big for an inline 6 but mine still starts and idles just fine. The other night I started it in 35 degree weather and it cranked for a couple seconds, then started and idled fine, I didn't have to touch the throttle to keep it from dying. I do not have the cold start or the AC valve.

Running one pass without adding filler can help to clean up the cast aluminum, then wire brush it, and do a pass with filler.

I get 12 psi by 2600 rpm, according to the guy who did my tuning that is really fast. So, more spark retard and more fuel? I assume that this is really bad for my turbo and exhaust? SDS mentioned in the manual that alot of spark retard and extra fuel at the lowest map value would give it basic anti-lag. But would destroy turbos.

Jon, You might check out art morrison next time you head down to Tacoma (they're in Fife actually). I know they have the equipment to make cages, but I don't know if they still do semi custom work. I think I called them a couple years ago to see about a roll bar for my 240z, if I remember correctly, they had plans on file for most cars.

I was really really close to buying a EP 240z that had dual supertrapps, although I never heard it run.

I finally got all 4 of my wheels. (FedEx said it was undeliverable due to inclemental weather) I've already stripped and painted the rear centers. Am going to do the same for the fronts. Gunmetal should look good with a white car and black accents. The fronts are 16x8 and the rears are 16x8.5. Weight is ~14lbs front and a little more back. The fronts have ~6" of back spacing, but it looks like they will fit on the AZC 5 lug front hubs with coilovers. On the rear I''ll probably have to run a spacer, the backspacing is 5.5" I could have paid more for proper offset, but these were pretty cheap. And if I get really desperate I'll just order new shells from kodak racing.

Looks like fun! Today I did a double take when I saw the harbor had chunks and a skin of ice in it. This is Washington, it's not supposed to do that.

I know Dave sells the 5 lug front and rears separately even though its not listed on his website. I know because I got just the 5 lug wilwood fronts from him. They're pretty. Dave quoted me $1200 for the fronts and $1000 for the rear for the 5 lug Wilwoods. I'm running 240sx disks in the back because they're cheap and still pretty big, plus I get to keep the parking brake.

I got a set for a V8 and a bunch of crimp on wire ends. They're all exactly the right length. If you go with MSD 8.8 you will need their special tool to crimp them correctly.

I've got a couple extra E88 head and an E31 head sitting around. I can get some phoots of one of the E88s if you want, The E31 is still on the engine. This reminds me to break down those engines and pull the 9mm rods. (any other parts I should pull?)

It was Sport Compact Car, you can still find the article online. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0207scc_boost_control/ I have been having a little trouble getting it to be consistent with what boost comes to. I'm not sure if its the solenoid or the controller. It is self learning for gain. I chose this one because I can program boost levels based on RPM, so using the stock turbo, shoot for 17-18 psi at 4000rpm and 10-12 psi at 6500rpm. If I keep having trouble with this one, I'll probably get one of the new HKS EVC controllers.

What is a press in wheel center? I have honestly never heard of this.

I have 16" Watanabes and they fit inside around the AZC 12.2x1.25" 5 lug with wilwood calipers. I have a set of Watanabes sitting around I can take measurements off of if you want.

250 shot of NAWZ should get you there. But seriously, Just start reading. Theres enough here to read for years. If you still have questions after you read it all I'm sure everyone will be more than willing to help.

I got one out using a big hammer. The other I used a really big hammer on to no avail. Right now its at a shop with a torch and a big hydraulic press. They did say that they're not responsible if they destroy the hub. I have 2 as spares if they destroy it.

I don't think this will work with watanabes. I have 16" 2 piece set and took them apart today to restore (paint and polish) them, thought it would be fun to see what it looks like backwards. It does not fit. The inner ID is almost exactly the same as the center OD. It might be possible to jam it together, but I am not that interested in seeing what it looks like.

WRX is good M3 can be had for that much you might be able to get a C5 for that much I think a big part of reliability is keeping it close to stock.

240zV8- Theres a store in tacoma. I'm not sure what part of washington you're in.

I put a recaro pole position in my Z. It does not slide but I fit with about as much headroom as in my pathfinder. I'm 6'4".