vashonz

compounded and sequential are not the same Sequential is like on the RX7 where the inlet to each turbo is from atmosphere and the outlet is to a common manifold and then to intercooler then to the engine Compounded is where the first turbo compresses to X psi, the outlet of which goes to the inlet of the second turbo, where it further compresses it from X psi to Y psi. Sorry for the big image, it does not belong to me. Back to the original question: I think compounded would make more power, if the engine were built to handle the extra boost, IE lots of fuel and propane injection or whatever they run.

I think what you just described was sequential turbos IE one after the other but in parallel. What I -think- warrenp is interested in is compounded IE one after the other in series. I have see this used on BIG tractor pull diesels in order to make lots and lots of boost. The 1st turbo effectively precompresses the air for the second one.

Civet cats (similar to that animal) get their ass scraped for scent to make perfume.

MAP measures presssure, every application I've seen mounts the map either inside the ECU or on the fender or firewall. Where you get the signal from needs to be after the throttle, or if using ITBs preferably on the balance tube. The SDS website (http://www.sdsefi.com) has some really good tech articles. Their installation manual (http://www.sdsefi.com/em4main14.pdf) talks about mounting a MAP sensor on page 10.

I thought it was 73mm, I guess thats what I get for measuring with cheap plastic calpiers. I didn't find any 73mm OD grease seals, if its 72mm that makes it easy. I'll grab a couple of those and see how it works.

Instead of doing the MM swap I decided to go with parts I had sitting around. I'm using the 240z (25 spline) stub axels, along with the 280zxt companion flange. I have the 240z dust shield ready to weld onto the zx companion flange. But I want to solve the problem of inner grease seal. I looked for an R200 front pinion grease seal, but couldn't find one (although I didn't try nissan). I did get a generic grease seal with a 40mm ID, 74MM OD. The seal was metal and I could not shave it down to the required 73mm to press into the S30 strut assembly. The outer wheel bearings are sealed and so do not use a grease seal. I simply ordered 4 new outer wheel bearings and will install them so that it seals the bearings properly. As far as I can tell the inner and outer bearings are identical except for the grease seal. Can anyone think of a problem with this solution? I'll throw some photos up later. Thanks to Pete Paraska and Terry Oxandale for the writeups.

When I lived in south carolina I had a problem with oil pressure dropping when I went around curves fast. I switched from 10w30 to 20w50 and the problem went away. Living in Washington now it doesn't get that hot, so I'm going to stuck with 10w-30.

It's TWM http://www.twminduction.com

I live at work, never have to think about what to wear (poopie suit), have a steady paycheck. But there are downsides, limited choices on what to eat, don't get to spend my $ whenever I want, live at work, no contact with anybody. BTW I'm in the Navy

AWD S13 at least a year before I heard about the Full Race car. This video is a couple weeks old (when it snowed in washington in november) http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42/driftin_180sx/?action=view&current=100_7509.flv

I recently put down 300ftlbs at 2600rpm, and 230 hp on a mustang dyno. That was with a stock engine and turbo, but with 72lb injectors with SDS, Intercooler, Apex'i boost controller, and an HKS BOV. This was with a 3" exhaust with a cat. I forgot to get a printout of the runs, but I'll email the shop and see if I cant get one.

A yard of gig line. Low visibility watch.

Guam has a weird obsession with spam, you can get it for breakfast at McD's, they also have tons and tons of different flavors.

Me and my R1. Stiches kick ass. My week old R1 with a buddies 2 day old. The honda had to go home on a tow truck.

I have an R1 and honestly I somewhat wish that I had gotten another VFR or an FZ1 instead of the R1. I felt alot more comfortable on my VFR than I do on the R1, it was easier to go fast on it. Liter bikes are really entirely too fast, if I can go double any (non-highway) legal speed limit in first gear, what do I do with the other 5? (I've seen 97mph before shifting, and still had a couple hundred rpm until redline.)

Someone already made a set, http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=34&zenid=a70d688bc20189834052bd84074f6cf1 Good company, quality products.

Right now the daily driver is a lightly boosted Miata, with an R1 to quench the "lusts". Until recently the Z has never been reliable enough that it could be driven on a semi regular basis. But I still really want to keep it.

The guy who is selling it is one of the few people who I trust to work on my car. He did the clutch and tuned the SDS (It's actually is fun to drive now) I think I'll put it up, If I get the price I want I'll sell it, if not, oh well.

I'm getting burned out on throwing money at the Z. I has gotten to the point where it starts everytime and drives nicely. But the next step would be to replace differential, suspension, and brakes, and to do bodywork. The problem is that I don't have nearly as much time to work on my car that I need. I'm tempted to buy a 240sx that has had a RB25DET transplanted into it, the reason I'm looking at this is because it already has everything done that I want to do, Coilovers, brakes, LSD, CVs, R200, and RB. Right now i'm trying to justify spending the time and money on the Z instead of just getting what I want but in a newer car with the work already done. The other thing I'm trying to decide if I should sell the Z or keep the Z and put it on the backburner for a couple years. The third possibility is to strip the electronics out and throw them in the 240sx.

I saw one last week in Tacoma when I took my car to get tuned.

I mounted my ecu over there. (the kick panel on the left side of the car)

I designed it myself based on what what I would need to run my ecu. I've used the switched 12v to power my LC-1 and AVC-R. I have a diagram if you want it.

I mounted mine outboard of the brake booster, I has worked fine so far.

I just bought a piece of metric all-thread and cut that to length. That way it was however long I want and still adjustable.

I found that a grinding wheel worked much better than a carbide bit for taking off a large amount of material. The carbide just got loaded up with aluminum shavings and I had to spend alot of time picking the aluminum out.