vashonz

The window company I used to work for does stuff like that. They have a factory near you (Aurora, Co) http://www.milgard.com/ From what I remember they can make everything to size. Vinyl is cheap and performs well, but doesn't look as nice as the wood vineer fiberglass. Framing is easy (I built alot of frames when I tested the windows). They have some blueprint type drawings for the bay windows on their site.

I ordered from Dave at AZC, highly recommended, awesome product, he called me a couple times to keep me updated on what was happeing with the order. When I called the order in he said he had to get it all together, would take a couple days. Sooner than that he called me and told me that it had shipped. The parts fit perfectly. I also have parts from modern motorspots, also very nice. I don't have any of their machined parts (besides the rear brake bracket), so I can't comment on the annodized aluminum, it all fit nicely. The only issure was shipping from Canada can take a while.

Looks nice. Why did they put 2 wasetgates on it? Multiple boost settings? or just to flow more?

EDM is cool, kind of like a really precise CNC plasma cutter. It should be able to get the bolt out. But will require the hole to be re-tapped.

Fuel pump relay if its on the 240z harness. On the zxt harness I have no clue, if it had yellow wires going to it I would say it goes to the transistor.

240sx offset is generally +35-38. Newer trend is to run wider lower offset wheels in order to make the wheels more flush with the fenders. There is an increasing number of wheels offered in a low(ish) offset. However many of those may look funny on an s30 depending on your sense of style. If you can find a good set of LUGCENTRIC spacers, and use good quality longer studs you should be able to run any of those wheels.

For a 16x8.5 +30-35 with coilovers SHOULD fit. Once you put the 9" wheel on there everything is different. I am running a 245 45 r 16 right now (still in the mockup phase). I'll try to get some photos up sometime this week.

The AZC front hubs move the wheel out a little from stock, You can effectively use a higher offset wheel. I will be running 16x8 +38 in front and 16x8.5 +20 in the rear. I may need to run a 3-2mm front spacer. In the rear it just barely clears the strut. I will probably run a 5mm spacer to give a little extra room. In a nutshell (look at me, I'm in a nutshell!) the fronts should fit just fine, the rears will need spacers.

If you check out the book "How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Management-Systems-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760315825/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b/002-0930736-2629669 it has a table of all the different features for the different EFI systems. It's a pretty useful book.

Read the directions. I forgot to do this until I had removed both metal shells. I ended up cutting another mustach bar up in order to get the bushings out (cut perpendicular to the axis of the hole) which let me put the 2 halves of the metal part back in without messing with the lip.

Too big, to busy, wrong offset

The problem is the strut housing. Changing the distance from the hub to the strut would be alot of work. If you mean to simply move the entire assembly inward I think you would totally mess up the suspension design. And would still require too much fabrication (moving strut towers, mustache bar mounts, LCA, ect)

I had a problem where spark would break up ~3500 rpms due to a bad set of sparkplug wires. I replaced them with an oem set (the kind recommended by SDS) and it fixed my problem.

The front and rear 240z Illumina struts are the same. The rear just has the spacer on it.

Thats a good deal. If I had known about that I would have gone with them rather than ebay (like I suggested to you). Although I did not have any problem welding the ebay stuff.

I've got a pair of 240z rear struts (Illuminas) sitting off the car in the housing, and one front 240z Illumina sitting around waiting to be installed in the shortened rear housing. I'll measure them tomorrow.

I did this last week. Only install the inner side of the poly bushing (the outer side and metal sleeve make it so that theres ~just~ not enough room. I also used lots and lots of grease. And pushed and forced and got angry at it for a long time.

If they came off a 510 the bolt pattern is 4x100, unless he used an adapter. 240sx, 240z, 510 all use the same (4x114.3) bolt pattern. Rotas are generally considered to be cheap, heavy, weak, and unreliable. To the point where there are t-shirts saying "Friends don't let friends roll on Rotas" I doubt you will get much interest from anyone with a 240sx when you try to sell them.

I will be painting my Z using this method. I'm going with white, and possibly a black hood. I have mineral spirits and penethol to thin it with. Yesterday I found "D.O.I. Wet Look Acrylic Enamel Hardener An acrylic enamel hardener that gives complete paint jobs a high gloss and retains their Distinctiveness Of Image finish. It improves the coating's durability and makes it resistant to scratches, stone chips, cleaners and gasoline spills." It suggests mixing 1 quart of paint to 1 pint reducer to 1/4 pint hardener.

The front diff should be completely separate from the engine oil. 90wt gear oil vs 10w30 or 20w50 engine oil.

I personally think most wheels made today don't fit the style of early Z cars. One wheel I seriously considered was the 5zigen fcn01, clifton is running those, they look nice on his car, but is not the style I am looking for. They are relatively cheap, available in 17x9 +20, and 17x8 +35 or so

This may not make the car ALOT faster (especially without tuning), but it will make it FEEL faster. More intake noise, more exhaust noise, stepping on the gas more to hear the noise. It made a big difference when I put air filter and slip-on on my VFR, With my Z I went directly to L28 and turbo.

What about cutting and rewelding the oil pan in order to move the front axel pass through forward further? You could move the motor to wherever you wanted that way.

JohnC at betamotorsports. But again its pricy. If you don't have the time/tools/skills its probably worth it. If you price it out is a decent deal Shocks $460 (illuminas) coilover kit $430 camber plates $340 welder $500 for an ok one or $60 for someone to do it for you. paint, tools to strip, sand, grind, clean Bearings, Ball joints, ect. All the small stuff adds up

I've gotten all 6 my Illuminas from http://www.shox.com 1st time ordered the full 240z set, 2nd time ordered 2 BZ3099. Its not on their website, but if you call they will put it together. They were here in ~2-3 days with standard shipping.