DuffyMahoney

A little update on my ITB build. In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again. I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy. Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel. The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it. It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch. I sent to Z car off to a guru. Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal. Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator. Which hasn't worked in years. I went with a repopped one. Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it. I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help. He is a friend and just an all around great guy. If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows. I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money. So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively. You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much. I can't thank them all enough. Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me. It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more. Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out. They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive. Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict. Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct. The ECU should start self tuning. So time to drive her and get it running right. I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! IAC or not. I will most likely attempt to use IAC again. I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that. My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton. Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)

It's a better weld for sure, it's easy to see if it is. Is the weld raised? Or is it flush or sunken slightly? I would say most wouldn't care, but any high end exhaust would be purge welded.

I own a brewery, everything gets purge welded. Fairly easy to do.

Were the injectors flow tested on the Heritage?

Whats your rational for it? Ford guy? DOHC v8?

Good idea, also test to see if all coils are firing.

Could the Coil on plug not be firing and causing unburnt fuel?

That injector angle looks fine. Is there flow data entered into the ECU? 350cc seems big, but not crazy over the top. I doubt that is the issue.

Flow tested injectors? Then setup per cylinder injection till it's perfect? I have full sequential injection and setup each injector based off flow data.

I don't know his english is pretty hit or miss.

Mine actually flowed the best at .500 lift. 235. Interesting that his flows higher as lift goes up.

Ken is a great guy. I am stoked for his project. Question Cylinders 3/4 also seems to have the same shape and size as other cylinders. Why? Answer: This is to make the exhaust flow velocity uniform in all cylinders. In addition, a new water jacket is installed between the EX3 / 4 ports, which tend to accumulate heat, to make the head temperature between cylinders uniform. This is done to ensure the consistent exhaust flow velocity in all cylinders. In addition, a new water jacket is installed between EX 3 and 4 ports, which tend to accumulate heat, to make the head temperature between cylinders steady.

The casting quality and the effort that went to this head is just amazing.

Unless Mikuni starts remaking them (they should), prices will continue to rise.

Yeah I was told to stay away from the Hanshin coils. I have the hitachi. The audi coils get used a lot in the Z world. Nice looking as well. The hitachis are around 50$ here. So it's fairly hard to beat price wise.

I hope you find them.

In testing the R35 coil came in 2nd against the coils they tested. No clue on the P100-T. The r35 coils are 40-50 each new.

Any data to back that up? Interesting looking coil

According to Platinum Racing a few other companies that have test the coils, the head are actually identical. The only thing that Nissan changed was the spring and boot length. Pretty common in the car world.

I have used all, all have downfalls. Are flares forever? Stainless is very very strong, I would most likely use aluminum in that aspect.

Does that fit a smaller wheel? Nicely done!

I think I have all my kinks worked out. Finally time to road tune. FullSizeRender.mov

Rare rare rare:0

What pistons are you using?