ModernS30

Well, one thing I know is that they have already build a GT300 class race car out of the BRZ, it was at the Tokyo Motor Show. For anybody who doesn't know the GT300 class is a 300hp class if I remember correctly.

I am super excited, I am only 19 years old and am not about to buy a new car any time soon. There are some things I don't like about it over all, I love the RWD sports car deal, I wish that the Subaru version was going to be offered up in an AWD though. Another thing, it is said that the STI tuning version will be N/A, which being a fan of the WRX/STI Impreza is a HUGE let down. I feel like if they don't offer a turbocharged version, they are lacking what a true STI car is. Overall the car is bound to have some great potential, I do agree I wish they offered a plain 2 seater, the styling has change a lot in the past, oh 4 years the car has been openly being developed. It is likely going to be a well put together car, basically take an Impreza, put the engine farther back on the cross member, rear wheel drive. I hope I get the opportunity to drive one, as I sure won't be owning one, car loan at 19 is not something I will have.

I see, this makes sense. Is it possible to make a valve that DOESN'T do this. I could see this being why the fronts lock and have some much more power than the rears. Maybe people are getting to stabby on the pedal rather than using a smooth threshold braking method? EDIT: I realized that might sound cocky, in no way is that what I mean for it to sound like. I am just trying to come up with solutions because I plan on running 4x4 vented brakes and I already have 82-83 zx rear calipers.

Wow, looking back on this project where it was and where it is now is very impressive in my eyes. It still has a long way to come but I've learned so much. Well, Here is what I have going on now. I picked up a bunch of L28 parts. I've already got the blown head N42/N47 setup, the Rod knock F54/P79. Now I am adding to my collection of crap. I've got an abused N47 block with the matching N42 head that came from it, these will be getting scrapped. I also got a rebuild F54 turbo short block. I was told new bearings, rings, and ARP rod bolts. It included a full gasket set with it and the P90a Hydro head. The head is untouched but I am planning to take it apart and give it a good cleaning as well as installing the ford Viton valve seals. With all of the parts I got the turbo ECU, 3 AFM's, both N/A and Turbo intake, the N47 was a bare block, but I do have the crank. I am planning on making most of it scrap metal as it isn't really worth my time to sell it, I will likely get more for scrap. I also got a Turbo 5 speed with it, supposed 5th was grinding, case seems to have been separated already. I am going to pull it apart and check the gears and things. If they are alright I guess I will be learning how to rebuild a transmission, if the gears are junk I might just make it scrap. I am planning on doing this the right way this time, I am working with the rebuild short block I have. I am going to go through with dies and clean/fix all of the thread on the entire engine. As mentioned earlier I am going to give the head a good cleaning and new valve seals. I am planning on using ARP head studs, I am also going to install a new oil pump and a full new timing set. I also plan on replacing all of the bolts, high grade where they are required and stainless everywhere that I can use them. Yes, it will be more expensive and take more time, but I would rather spend the money and take the time now than to deal with the issues later. Here is a picture you can see the heads, short block and boxes of parts in the back.

No, engine bearings only go in one way. There are tops and bottoms and tangs (Spelling?) on the bearings, they must be installed facing the proper direction, tang in the right place and the tops and bottoms in the right place. It is very easy to overlook, even knowing they need to go the right direction, which way you install the bearings. Both main and rod bearings are like this and MUST be installed properly otherwise it could cause issues. I don't think replacing the pump is a horrible idea, but don't trust stock gauges to really do the job right, they are old and worn and just shouldn't be trusted. Even new aftermarket gauges can be faulty or have issues.

Have you guys thought of every putting a prop valve on to limit the front brakes, not increase the rear brakes? If it is way to much brake, then limiting it a little bit shouldn't hurt a bit. Stock should be about 80% 20% anyways.

This. My dad's dry sump oil pump had the bypass piston froze. Pushed oil pressure past 100psi with easy and bam. It literally pops though and sprays EVERYWHERE. Note: This does it with a brand new filter, it doesn't matter if the seal is fine, it doesn't destroy the seal, it doesn't tear it, it just sprays oil, very quickly. Granted we have a dry sump so it likely goes a bit faster. This is likely your issue, check your oil pump itself.

I had a 280z one that seemed rather distorted, lay it out in the sun for a few hours and see how far it moves. Its likely that if you let it sit and get soft and move for a while it will straiten out.

Wanna come check out a broke 240z in camby/mooresville? I got a L28ET I am about to build. My dad runs down at Paragon Speedway #44 Sprint Car, David Hair, Light blue. Nice looking z you go there.

I feel somewhat bad not responding to my own thread, but I feel as if I have found nothing that I need to say in response, others seem to have covered it well for me.

The mindset you mentioned above is what I meant. I like threads such as the picture threads and wheel threads, I like my car to look good, but I feel like once your car has gone all stance then its too far and that is not what Hybridz is about. Basically, I agree with you Ron. As I said, some form is fine, what I am really talking about is the paper weighting of cars. Such as this:

Okay guys, In the ever growing car scene form and this whole "Stancing" thing is blowing up. Now I am hoping that we are all aware of what Hybridz started as. Hybridz was the small block chevy swapped early z car forum. Hybridz has always been about making your car perform well and how to do it in any way possible. With the recent happenings with people slamming cars and such more and more threads are popping up about how to get the lowest and such. Do you feel like Hybridz should allow this or should Hybridz stick to its roots? I am looking for mature discussion, keep out profanity and name calling. We are all adults here, so lets act like it. Strong opinions are fine, you should know where to draw the line. My personally opinion is that Hybridz is a forum based on performance and function. I feel like if you get some form out of it that is fine, if you have form AND function that is also just fine. I feel like the forum should avoid cars that are for all practical purposes paper weights. I am all for function, I do like a little form on the side, but I don't like doing things that make my car worse. I feel like form is just not what this board is here for and it needs to be taken to forums that are hella-flush supportive. Again, lets try to keep this civilized because I am really curious on how the large majority of the active member base feels.

I believe the goal is to delete all of the completely useless garbage. I applaud this happening, should make searching a tad easier.

Also looking forward to a write up.

Maybe you are looking to get the car unrealistically low?

Wait a second, you are telling me that an RB26 cylinder head bolt holes line up with an L6, and the cylinder bores also line up? Now I realize difficulties here with water jackets and such but.... Doesn't this mean you could technically bolt an RB head onto an L6 block?

I'm going to power my car with grenades.

Jealous

Stock S30 drive shaft bolts didn't have hex heads on them. They were round with one flat edge that was up against the companion flange. Being that you didn't say what model though I am not sure if this is what you were talking about.

I don't quite thing camber plates will give the comfort that I think others were assuming the OP would want. To my understanding they are rather noisy?

All I hope for my S30 is to handle well, if it rides like garbage so be it, as long as it will take those turns, opportunity cost. I'm also willing and accepting that it is going to be a work out.

I see, is the forum in need of some slimming due to the many time repeated topics and so many years of threads and pictures? I'm assuming the boards are down for the janitorial services then.

Yea, server was down for a while this morning too. Been happening for a few weeks at night.

That seems like a really good mod, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Anybody add any input on issues it may cause? Otherwise I think I am going to order one and try it on my MSI PCB3.0

Weld a washer onto the stud, weld a nut to the washer.