ModernS30

The idle bonces between 750 and 500. Still does it now that the new alternator is in. Got a BIG problem folks. Help me and help me quick. I daily this car and now my brake lights are not working. I am not sure what has happened. I did the swap using this guide (77 external voltage regulator to a 280zxt internal alt.) http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Now I am totally screwed. If you read this and can help! PLEASE DO SO! I need my lights. Also the interior gauge lighting does not work. Tested the alternator. Its working fine 70amps and everything proper. If you can help, DO IT!

Ok guys. I haven't had any kind of update in a while. Trying to find a welder to put in some floors. I got a 280zxt alternator that I have cleaned up and will be installing tomorrow. I found some rust hiding under bondo but its nothing major and will be cut off when I eventually go ZG flares. For now I just cleaned it all to bare metal and painted it to stop/slow the progression. I am still going to be saving to get springs and struts. I also fixed the shifter slack with a couple washers. I will probably do the Chrysler? door hing pin bushing fix later on to do it proper. Other than that I have been finding surface rust and cleaning/painting it. I am also going to start putting the black interior bits in it I have. I am trying to decide if I should do that or just take out the rear interior. I don't have black vinyl pieces and really don't care much for the brown it has. I just don't really want to pull the look of "Look, I am saving weight in my daily by taking out 20 pounds of interior" kinda thing.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes. I need to do the fusible link fix just after I get my zxt alternator on. Then I will do the fusible link fix and then seafoam. All in time, all in time.

yes, do it before oil change, run the entire tank out before you change it though.

9/74 260z was the 280z style 260z. Other than that it was 240z style.

Thanks, that an edit of the one on top. not even with anything but an only editor, just cropped, no re-size or anything. =P

Haha, this is true. I was in town today (not with the z) but Justin neglected looking at his phone till I was literally just on the way out. I am basically broke from my Z. I just got a ZXT alternator and I still need to get my hands on a welder to fix up the floors and my passenger quarter panel possibly. Why didn't you say anything about a crank and tools Justin? Hurry up, make it run! If the 260z is really there, that's an amazing find. was it early or late? Wondering what the dash would fit in. I think if its early it will fit in a series 2 240z? If its late a 280z up to 76? Either way, another project. As I told Justin earlier. Put a 12v strait 6 cummins in the blue car! Glad to see at least some progress, even if its little. Oh and my 8 bucks for the l24 still stands, if I can figure out getting down there again, with work and school I am pretty busy. lol

HAHAHAAH, you got paid to take a 280z. Nice work man, nice work.

Do you realize how rice that sounds? I can "feel" the difference? The what? 100 pounds? Don't believe it. I took it all out and didn't seem different at all. Just not huge ugly thing sticking off the car.

You found over 700 in the car? How much did you pay? WIN!

I understand the idea of saying, really, should this go into my intake. That's why you do it with a cool engine to avoid any problems. Its so the carbon gets cleaned out of the intake ports and the innards of the intake side of the head.

Sounds like a great plan to me. So far my input says the one that is supposed to be shiny. Like I said, I want the site to benefit from this. I started this thread to see if there were stickers out there. If we can get a run made after enough people wanting them and choosing a design and everything that would be great. I am really siked that as many of you are interested so far.

me like!

+1

No problem.

Mitsu

Yea, like I said, its worth the 10 bucks for a can. I did see noticable difference, especially in the Nissan pickup. The Toyota has a sender unit going bad so the idle is still to high.

First I have to say, I did search. I really couldn't find anything other than the thread in group buy. That thread appeared to not be really moving. Is there anybody that makes the stickers? I would really like them to be from the site staff as for proceeds to go to the site. I would love to represent the hybridz boards and all the great knowledge and everything here while driving my Z. Thanks.

Never said there wasn't a way to make the steering lock better anyway. I just need an LSD or to weld my diff before I can get sideways.

I like the way this one looks.

How much did it cost? Most of this stuff, seafoam and apparently redline and whatever else actually ends up working is really worth the money to spend 10 bucks.

Paint the engine bay white, that way it stays clean! haha, yea right, out of those 2 I would go with the black. I am still thinking that some sort of rubberized bed liner material that can handle the heat would work the best. But you would have to make sure it gets applied properly.

There are a few threads about people attempting drift. I guess at Drift Indy in speed drome they had at least 1 that was a reg. at the event? The biggest issue is steering lock. Also the setup of suspension needs to be highly modded for adjustment for best results. In the end, with enough practice I think you could manage to get one to slide ok. Buy me a KAAZ 2way LSD for a S13 open diff replacement and I will tell you. =P oh and on topic, yes, dry ice is great. Park your car outside in freezing weather seems to work good to. Worked on a few cars. I will let you know when I decide to start stripping mine. I have got 2 cars to just have the chunks of deadening in the rear come off as one solid piece, no dry ice, no torch, cold outside, grabbed it with my hand and pulled, it came up as one piece. At least mostly, a few small pieces broke off.

I used it in a 2000 Toyota Tacoma and a 1993 Nissan pickup. I bought it at Autozone. If the one you went to did not know what it was. Don't go there, It was 9.99 a can. I only used 1 per vehicle. Basically. The Idea is to clean the carbon deposits out. First, have the vehicle cool, that way you don't warp any valves or anything pouring room temperature liquid onto burning hot engine internals. Start your engine with your brake booster vacuum line disconnected (or any similar vacuum that goes into the intake and will run down all intake runners) use a funnel and pour 1/3 the can into the line slowly, it will choke out the vehicle if you use to much (having a helper to keep it running can be good) IMMEDIATELY turn the engine off, this can be done by flooding the engine with what you have left of the 1/3. Then let it sit for 10 minutes. In the mean time. Put a second third in the oil, directly in through the filler cap. Then what you have left into the gas tank. After the vehicle has sat for that 10 minutes after the first 1/3 you start the vehicle and let it run for a bit (around another 10 minutes). Then take it driving, There will be ALOT! of smoke. It seemed to work alright. I think if I used 2 cans it would have turned out better. If I do it again I will do it a full can in the tank. 1/2 can in the booster, 1/2 can in the oil. You are free to experiment. The thirds method is what is recommended by the manufacture, it is a 100% petroleum product, I'm sure it causes cancer, just like everything else does. It did increase performance a little. Worked better than the cheap injector cleaners you can buy. I will make a video when and if I do it to the z.

Some great info here, lets keep this going, As soon as I get some I will post up. I do have to say. I am going to be replacing my fusible links with the Radio amp fuses, the 2 fuse block from wal-mart, 2 of those, they are 12 each, I am sure Ebay would end up cheaper. But use two of those and a piece of amp wire from the possible on the battery. Then run the 4 white/red wires as normal from the 4 output sides. Oh, investing in a decent pneumatic setup will pay of, ie, Air Drill with wire wheel and other attachments, cutting wheel, paint gun, and other such tools, can prove useful in rust removal.