ModernS30

Well guys. In about two weeks Bonnie (Yes, I named my car Bonnie) and I will be relocating to Mississippi it seems. I hope there are some hybridzer's down there. If your on the Mississippi Craigs list, its right into a town that has a real RHD fairlady for sale for only 5k. If only I had that, I would be rolling with 2 z's. A 73 fairlady would be sweet. http://gulfport.craigslist.org/cto/1526171131.html

Search, search and search. I have spent many hours searching the boards here and learned a great deal. Fusible link swap, turbo swap/wiring, alternator swaps, there is so much here to be learned, if you just use that little button at the top of the page that says "search".

I will do that one later I guess. I took the driver side out today.

t3

I fixed the idle, I just opened it probably about a turn and a half. Its at about 750 now. With the first little turn it was at just over 500 and after I would let off the gas it would stumble then come back up and stay running. I need to seafoam because ALOT of carbon seems to come out of the exhaust. When the car sits idling in one spot it leaves a black spot on the cement.

Well, I realized tonight when I went to take out the rear strut on the drivers side. I don't even know what to unbolt. I think the 2 nuts on the inside of the car, then 2 bolts from under the car? and it should come out?

Be sure to put the L in the 240sx

I am unaware if the maxi fuse fixed my lights. But I finally got down to the idle issue. The piece that has a vacuum line that pushes a rod down to hold the throttle when the engine is running. Well, I found out that the tip had broken off. And somebody had just stuffed a paper towel into it. So I either need to make a new peice, or buy another. Buying another crappy plastic one sounds like a bad Idea so I am going to try to get a metal cap piece. Then Thread it to put a metal vacuum line hook up on it. I will post how that goes after I go to a hardware store to look at what I might need. For now I am going to open up the idle stop screw to hold it at proper idle (which really shouldn't need to be changed back if I put it to ~750 RPM or so.)

I was told, 2 30's a 50 and an 80 Pics as promised. Not all the way screwed on, just one on each block. I will be able to put the kit together if you would like and should be able to get it to you for 40 shipped with the fuses (80, 50, and 4 30's) and maybe even the wire to go from Pos+ on starter to boxes in that price.

At least you made progress! I got the maxi fuse setup installing tomorrow! WOOT! Dude, get your car running already. Who needs paint. Wire it, install it, start it, pull it back out and paint it and make it purdy, put it back in.

a 77 mt ecu?

Interesting, and cheap, indeed.

I got the fuses I need now. I also got the wiring and which goes where. I won't wire it till tomorrow since I am off work. Still have to go get fuses, tape to re-loom, and some oil cause I found out I am running WAY low, I hope I haven't caused any internal engine damage.

Get an auto meter programmable gauge for the cell. Will be more simple.

Ok guys, I got my maxifuse blocks. I will put some pictures up in a minute. Can anybody tell me what amp fuses I need. I believe I need 3 50's and a 70, because I put the 70 amp 280zxt alternator in.

I am going to have to do the fusible link swap tomorrow or saturday. Must be done.

Something really trippy happened. My fuel/voltage gauge backlight used to NEVER work. Today, driving home, before I left my work parking lot the lights came back on. Not only that, on the way home from work, the fuel/voltage gauge light started working. I obviously have a short somewhere. I am going to have to pull my dash sometime soon.

This makes sence. No I did not upgrade. I need to do it I just don't exactly have the money. I get my paycheck tomorrow, then I will buy the blocks and fuses and do that. Maybe it will fix it. I hope it will. The lights are messing up again.

Problem seems to have come back. Don't know what it is. Obviously a short/loose wire somewhere. Could it be the new alternator? I know the alternator is good. Its just maybe its causing some sort of conflict.

Ok, seems to be working now, thanks for calling man. Hopefully I get this thing all figured out and working without errors like this.

Seems better now. Thanks for the call man. Hopefully this problem doesn't come back. Going to work on fixing those wires by the coil and checking vacuums.

Sent it in PM, waiting for call, sure hope you can help me!

Ok, I have been searching, I cannot seem to find anything. They were working. The car is a 77 280z with the external voltage regulated alternator. Then I did a 280zxt alternator swap, I followed the wiring done here, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html, the alternator is working, charging and everything. Now, my tail lights, brake lights, hazard lights, side markers, and dash lights do not work. They all worked before. I tried putting the wiring back with the external regulator (still running the zxt alternator). This didn't work. I have been looking and looking. I daily this car and not having tail/brake lights, BAD! If you have any idea what could be wrong please help me. I'm not very good with wiring but I did it as the thread said. Thanks, Kinser

Going to add all the details I know. The hazards, gauge lights, tail lights, and brake lights do not work. The turn signals and headlights still work. As well as the seat belt light, and the parking brake light. I am guessing relay? or fuse? Fuses are fine... What are the relays, and where are the relays, for these lights? Pics would be great, I know I am asking for alot. I am still searching, if I find anything I will post back that I got it.

up, guys I am searching. I really need help, don't pass me off because I didn't search or anything. I really really need help. I need my lights fixed. NOW! I am messing with wires, back and forth, checked fuses, fusible links. Don't know where else to look.