ModernS30

Diamond Racing makes decent wheels and they are light weight. Check out the RB and RB-R group buy, 750 shipped, I think you can get them in 16. Hurry up already, I don't care if its cold. Have it ready by the 6th. You don't have much time. You've got the mount kit, wire it, put a battery in and fire it up. Please?

are those 5 lug wheels bolted onto the stock 4 lug with only 3 lugs and a lug cut off so they would go on? SCARY!!!!

Just mount it to the little valence that goes over the bumper the thing that the struts sorta support, its a perfect spot.

If I am not mistaken there is a huge thread on just getting a 240sx lsd replacement for open diff and it bolts in. Shouldn't that be a more popular option. I plan to get a KAAZ diff.

I am going to make a DIY on why your lights mess up as mine did and how to fix them if they do mess up. Of course it will be different for you 240 and 260z owners I believe since I have a 280z and the wiring would be different. Only problem is my soldering iron broke so I cant solder the wire like I wanted to.

Seen this before, who hate on only the best built engine in the world, and as for the tokyo drift, the cars that were used for drifting were 302 powered. I think if you listen close enough in a few spots you can hear the rumble on that mountain pass.

Very good point. I want that tach too, I still laugh when my friends get in my car and see the speed-o says 160 and say "Does it really do 160!?!?!?!?" that tach would make it even better. Plus the 240KPH speed-o. Can't believe I missed that one while looking at that, they have some nice s130's too.

Decided to add 2 pictures of the wiring after I finished wrapping it, looks way better now that all the ugly splices are out and stuff and the alternator wiring was tucked in.

This is probably the place to buy one from, look at what they have in stock, a lot of them are RB26 powered too! http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/stock.php?search=fairlady

I am in love with the 3rd pic the 2nd red car best looking s130 I have seen to date (remember that is my opinion so please lets not get our panties in a bunch here)

Dig it.

Ok guys, I figured out what was wrong thanks to two80zforme. I did the same thing he told me last time and this time it worked, all my lights started working and my door chime came on, I am not sure why the light switch affect the door chime and my radio and stuff but It seems I need a new light switch. At first the way I had done it made them all come on and stay on, key out switch off no matter what. I got it where I can just splice 2 for now and it will work only when I turn the switch on.

First try the headlight switch, replace it, that fixed it in my 93 nissan pickup but I didn't have this fuel pump issue and such.

So I was wondering, since its not really a 280z after that what would we call it, do we do it like the Silvia guys do and call it a 280.4z? Since its a 240z front end on a 280z. If you don't know what I mean I mean like Big-Phil's car, I didn't know where to post this so I posted it in the Non-tech.

LOL, nice, thanks for understanding, I hope the explanation above is what you were looking for, its exactly what I did. You may have to lower the exhaust on the drivers side but I didn't I just squeezed it out.

Signing in as a S30 DD, 1977 280z with minor mods and major electrical issues.

I was about to say, first remove that horrible whatever you call it then I read the comment about the fart can. If you look just a few threads down you will see a thread titled "Bumper Rip Off" its not the best but I assure you the "search" function at the top of the page works great, you will find a lot of information and then we do not have to cover topic over again making it easier for the next person to come along and use this aforementioned search function. It is simple, drivers, 3 nuts on the inside and 3 bolts on the bottom, wiggle out. Passenger side, support tank, unbolt tank straps and take screws out of top of filler neck, lower tank and push it to the drivers side a tad bit, to get the 3 bolts on the bottom, wiggle out and do reverse order on tank. Done, I learned this mostly from looking at other threads, so once again please use the search function. The amount of information on this forum is ridiculous. The amount things have been covered more than once is even worse.

I didn't take any fuel lines off. It was a HUGE PITA! Trust me, it wasn't fun at all. undo the straps and just take the 4 screws out of the top of the filler neck (Beware don't drop them in the tank on accident). Then basically you just wiggle the tank around, I had to push it a little toward the driver side but I didn't undo any lines although it came very close to having to. Like I said, PITA, but worth it. Back in is the easy part, jack up, connect straps, tighten bolts, done.

Somebody please help me. The light issue has come back. The map light (one in the dash) dash lights, rear defogger, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, marker lights, radio (aftermarket not sure what its wired into) aren't working.

Custom wound springs?

Shave that bumper! I got my other bumper strut out and I am WAY happy with the results and can't wait to weld up the holes. and throw a 240z bumper on.

hahahahaha, Epic Fail.

Long story. Not maybe not Mississippi anymore. My mom is looking for another job. She HATES the job she has now, so she is basically trying to find a good one. She got an offer, but got a better one right after. So what if its 2am, that's what its about, z love, lol. I just decided that instead of going with a 280z air dam I should get a 240z air dam and do the signal conversion. and then get the 240z bumpers. Just a random thought. Oh and I still want that hood latch, I just have other things I need to spend my limited $$ on right now. Such as maybe a welder. I got some rust spots to fix up, and I keep finding more, not a lot more, just little spots. But nothing really horrible yet (hope for me guys). You should hurry and get your car running and down to abq before the 6th for the SQC dyno day/BBQ =P I plan to take the 280z. Will be a blast to put down my ~120hp (rated 170 stock right? adjust for 30 years wear and my cheap gas habits and I think you should have 120, I think the 77 l28 was 170ish.) Oh yea Justin, want any interior peices? haha, wait crap, you have a 240z. I guess I will take pics and post up everything I have for sale. Anybody up for a stock 280z air box? I have 2 of them... Tail light cover panels, dome light holder panel thingy, quarter window panels... I have those all in black and broke 1 set of each and for the right price I will even take off my door panels and sell them (brown and in amazing shape) The brown quarter window panels have the speaker holes in them and I can get the matching panel below it off. Also have the strut covers in both black and brown. I got to much junk and not enough money.

Would that be z31 with alot of work, a complete suspension swap, or azc high dollar parts? Sounds about right to me.

Buy me a welder? haha if you cant tell, the passenger one had rusted on the bottom and apparenty whatever previous owner that painted the car thinks that silicone and metal repairs rust. If you don't understand what I mean, he used silicone to put metal over rust, and he also tried to use silicone to cover the entire drivers side floor board hole, which made it worse. Basically the cracks on the front valance are siliconed shut as well. Meaning when, not if but when, I go to put an aftermarket air dam on it its just going to be more and more trouble and I am going to have to go thru and clean all the SILICONE! off the car. Since when did this become a method of dent/crack filling? Why would anybody use silicone?