Dat73z

That actually sounds like a good idea. Was thinking the #2 vent since it would be easy for me to get a new fitting on the reg where I've mounted it and just unplug the existing hose/run a new hose to that location (#2 hose is visible and accessible from under the car). Haven't had time to measure the hose diameters yet but the #2 hose already looks like 2x the ID of the factory return which is smaller than a drinking straw. I'm thinking this should drop me somewhere in the 4psi range for the triples...hopefully lower. Was actually surprised the Carter 4070 pump is putting out so much pressure (~6-8+psi) after reading online that you don't need a reg for it and triples but fortunately my friend convinced me to get a reg anyways.

Thanks for the insight, yep 3/8 return stated for Mallory/MSD reg. Also have a smaller feed from the carter pump as well but I am not sure if that makes a difference here. Was running the mechanical pump deadheaded and after dripping fuel everywhere I came to find my mechanical was putting out 14psi! Decided to go electric for feed consistency instead of a deadhead reg off the mechanical. Worst case scenario I could drop the tank and get some larger feed/return lines welded but I'm trying to avoid that at the moment. So it sounds like #2 at the thin portion of the tank is the way to go?

Hi all, After dealing with some high fuel pressure issues I think I've realized my return line from a bypass regulator is too small. Here are the details: 1) Stock 73 240z feed into Carter pump, outlet to Mallory/MSD 3psi min FPR 2) Mallory/MSD FPR return to stock return (tiny diameter, restrictive) 3) FPR turned all the way down, solid 5psi fuel pressure at last carb (triple Weber DCOE 40 deadheaded) I'm thinking I should plug the stock return and repurpose one of 3 larger tank vents as the return, but which one? I'm thinking either #1 or #2 in the attached pic. I've also attached a pic of my FPR/pump setup for reference. Check out the tiny return on the bypass side of the reg (bottom). Hoping this can bring me closer to 3-4 psi as testing the reg without the return restriction shows around that pressure range. Thanks!

Thanks, that seems like the general consensus from what I've read. A recore and sealing up the endtanks may be the way to go here.

Hi all, After replacing every coolant line and the heater control valve I'm looking at replacing my heater core due to a pinhole leak. Does anyone have recommendations on a replacement heater core? I was looking at this unit from ZCarSource of AZ: http://www.zcarsource.com/heater-core-240z-70-73-new_8_56539_66436.html So far as I can tell, rebuilding my OEM heater core would cost a about 50-100$+ more locally so I've been looking at replacement options. Thanks!

Just a quick update- thanks again for the help on this. Wired it up per above and got spark. Motor now stumbles and wants to fire but no dice. Probably need to play with timing and the settings on the triples a bit more. Edit- got it running.

Yep, just re-read my post and realized I was completely grounding the coil out. Was pretty tired when I was hooking it all up and stopped when I noticed the coil getting hot...glad I didn't start a fire. So only 2 wires will run from the coil negative, correct? 1) First wire to the C terminal on E12-80 2) Second wire to tach I think the confusion also is that I have a really late 73' 240z with a 3 wire tach...need to trace the wire back from the tach and figure out where it goes or run a new wire per the zgarage diagram.

Thanks NewZed- great info as always. The 2 original wires that are coming from the OE chassis wires show 12V and drop to 8V when I only plug in the coil (nothing else connected). Chances are I'm using the wrong wires at the coil? One is black/white (positive post). The other is black (ground). I'll take another look when I get home tonight.

Hi all, I was hoping to get some thoughts on a no spark issue with a 280zx distributor swap. Here is a bit of background and what I've checked so far: 1) Coil is a new MSD 8222: http://www.msdperformance.com/Products/Coils/Race/8222_-_High_Vibration_Blaster_Coil.aspx I checked +/- voltage going to coil and it is 12v (battery) with ignition key in "on" position. Voltage coming out of the coil and going to e80 module is around 9V with no ballast resistor. Primary resistance in coil measured as 0.7 ohms. 2) Wired up e80 module straight to coil like this: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/e1280x.jpg Was getting ~9V to e80 straight from coil. Was thinking maybe it needed a full 12V so wire straight from battery to e80? Don't recall what the stock points coil output voltage was, but I measured the terminals with the same meter and was getting ~1.5 ohms primary resistance minus ballast resistor which sounds correct. 3) No Spark Pulled a spark plug and grounded to valve cover bolt then cranked, no spark. Spark plug wires are known to be in good order and working (as in pulled off my buddies running car). Spark plugs are all brand new NGK's, gapped to factory specs (don't recall specs offhand but used the FSM). 4) Coil gets really hot with key in ON position for more than a couple of minutes Hot as in burning skin to the touch hot. Thanks! Getting really excited to get this thing back on the road. Bit more background...brand new cap + rotor, 280zx distributor and e80 module are in unknown condition- bought them used and never tested although there is no shaft play and everything "looks" ok. Any easy way to test the ignition module? Buddy might have a spare one I could try, but that may take some time.

Were you looking for measurements of the ES bushing clamp? If so I can snag the dimensions for you tonight, I ordered up a universal one after measuring the ST rear sway drop bars a while back. Thought you were looking for the final dimensions of the bracket I've been measuring up. Only difference for me may be the thickness of material used as the ST rear sway drop bars are what they are. Yeah, I put a jack under the rear LCA with the coil turned all the way down so I wouldn't be fighting the spring. Once the frame just starts to lift off the jack I measured something like 1.5" between the sway bar endlink hole and the rear LCA endlink hole. With the CV in place at "ride height" it was something like a 1-2" swing up for the swaybar before hitting the CV. Would be maybe another 1/2" gained there with the sway bar spaced back due to the bends being positioned more optimally. It'll fit for sure, but need to find a good height for the endlink although it seems doubtful the suspension would ever reach full droop unless I start 2-wheeling around the track . Edit: Actually if memory serves (pulled the old sway off a year ago when I decided to rebuild the sus/brakes/drivetrain) the original sway setup I had was actually hitting the stock u-joints at full droop. Didn't drive the car enough to figure out if that was an issue, but I found that interesting. Also by design the "clamp on" style brackets spaced the sway bar back around 0.5-0.75".

Thanks guys, Do you recall how far back you spaced your swaybar? Finally got some time to throw the rear diff in there and mock up the car at ride height. It looks like I'll need closer to a 1-2" spacer. I'm thinking with grade 8 swaybar mounting hardware (or better) this should be fine as the shear characteristics won't change substantially with a solid spacer. Thoughts? Edit: Also spacing back that far is to partially account for interference with the CV's. It's a really tight fit and the angle of the swaybar from the back is not conducive to good clearance. At full droop sway touches the CV's with a short endlink distance. Still figuring out the final measurements for this thing.

I plan to do the same but I want to make sure I get everything straight. Really it's just some rectangles and holes, could do it with a chop saw . Easy peasy.

Mike- thanks for the idea. Interesting concept, but I think I'm going to try to keep it simple for the first go around. Eventually I want to run heim joints for the sway bars, but that'll come later as I develop the car...want to get it back on the road first! seattlejester- not a problem. I'm going to measure out the dimensions this week and prototype up some brackets out of AL stock on my buddy's mill once I figure out what stock to order. Probably take 30 mins-1 hr total, but this is a slow moving project so probably won't get back to you until next week .

Thanks! Great info in that thread. After a quick measurement, looks like 1/2" aluminum stock will do the trick just fine.

Hi all, Here the background: I have a really old swaybar setup from the 80's which used to mount via sandwich plates to the rear drop bars. I ended up finding ST rear drop bars for a good deal then figured out the old swaybar would work with the ST drop bars. My buddy is going to swing by sometime with the ST rear swaybar to compare dimensions but I'd like to avoid getting another rear sway if possible since I already had everything powdercoated. Even with the old sandwich "style" sway bar mounts, the spacing between the OEM control arms and sway bar endlinks was not ideal. I'm thinking once I get the diff and CV's in there to fab up some 1/2 to 1 inch spacer plates for the rear sway bar bushings onto the ST rear drop bars + measure out the appropriate endlinks at that time to ensure no binding or interference with CV's at ride height. Q's: 1) Is spacing the rear swaybar back pretty common on Z cars to prevent binding? 2) Any issues with this approach? I've attached some pics to show the issue. Thanks! Edit: Upon further research, I see this has been done before: http://www.typeischeap.com/Rear_Sway_Spacer%20(Custom).jpg

Thanks for the responses. Hmm...the MSA lip does look really close. Had to do a double take there, actually looked at that MSA pic the other night and thought it looked off. Any other takers?

Anyone have any ideas? Also where to get one? I've never seen it stateside, but I'm really digging how it's 1 piece versus the "euro"/aussie lips which bolt on to the lower valence. Thanks!

Thanks NewZed, There was some generic warranty info with the alternator but nothing really useful from what I recall. Good to know that plug may be unused on my application, I may just tape it off and hide it if that is the case- will cross check after work. I'll double check my service manual to see what purpose that condenser serves. Took a break from this project for a couple of months so it's a bit of a learning curve to get back into it. Should've taken more pictures! Edit: Interesting, just checked and it looks like it could be the 6v P-"Phase" terminal The alternator is "generic" and used for a lot of applications. The ZX Turbo happened to use the same alternator sometimes, but did not use that terminal as it was also "generic" in that car. P stands for "Phase" and the terminal is an auxiliary pickup point for partial alternator output, single phase - approx. 6V, to drive some tachs and other accessories. It's basically the same as a bridge tap on transformers. If you want to go hogwild with 6V, I am sure you can figure out some use for it, otherwise just leave it be. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7063-280z-alternator-p-terminal/ Learn something new every day.

Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on this: I am doing a 280zx alternator (non-turbo) swap into my late 1973 240z and am planning to use the conversion plug with a diode + rewire the factory fuel pump wiring to operate off of an oil pressure switch (late car, had the electric pump in the back). I purchased a remanufactured 280zx alternator and there are 2 connections I am unsure of: 1) The single blue wire and connector coming from the alternator (No idea on this one) 2) A condenser plugged into the chassis harness (What is this for? Should I keep and bolt to ground somewhere?) Anyone have any ideas on #'s 1 and 2 in the attached photo? Otherwise seems like a fairly straightforward upgrade. Thanks!

Just to confirm and a bit sidetracked from the OP's original question, I have 15x8 0 offset RKR's and with a square sidewalled tire they will fit both inboard and outboard speaking from my own physical mockups with full T3 suspension and brakes/OEM F/R hubs (e.g. F/R control arms, full coilovers, caster arms, wilwood disks). With AZC knuckles and outboard/fender clearance that is a different story and something I had not considered when picking up the 15x8 0 offset RKR's. I spaced things out with washers and you'll need something between 5-10mm spacers to clear at a minimum. I'm thinking closer to 10mm but memory is a bit fuzzy. Note however I want to run sticky 225's. If you are willing to run a stretched tire and/or lots of negative camber the dynamics change entirely. From my measurements and as casper9182 alluded to above, simple solution is to upsize to 16's or 17's so the AZC knuckles will clear in the barrel. That is, unless you want to stick with 15's (which is my case). Edit: I should also note I know a local z owner with AZC knuckles and 15x7's on the front in I believe 0 offset and no spacers. Last time I looked barrel doesn't extend inboard enough to hit the AZC knuckles. No tire stretch but can't remember the width. I know the rears are 15x7 running 225's. Clears inboard/outboard front and rear just fine.

CableSrv, absolutely impressed with the level of quality and detail in that install! Likewise can't wait for the final results video. Thanks to all for weighing in, a lot of great points to think about and consider.

Curious about pic above. Have 15x8 0 offset RKR's and with AZC knuckles will probably need ~10mm spacers to clear. If the OP pic is something like a 15x8/15x9 -10 to -15 offset then I'm assuming 225's fitting under the factory arches without negative camber + roll + pull is out of the question? I've attached a pic when I threw a 15x8 0 offset RKR on the other day for a quick visual. Granted there is no load on the suspension, things aren't looking too peachy if a 10mm spacer gets thrown into the mix although 15x8 0 offset looks like it'll fit excellent to the fenders with good clearance on the back.

Looks like some great suggestions on this thread. Does anyone have pictures of their installations they could share (e.g. engine bay shots, firewall line routing, air distribution by blower motor)? It sounds like a lot of the kits on the market require some amount of fitting to work. Also CableSrv, your install sounds exciting. Could you take some pics along the way and post? Thanks!

Hi all, Does anyone have any recommendations on an air conditioner kit currently available on the market in 2015 for the 240z? I've been thinking about installing one in my Z which never came with "factory" air, but have seen a few mixed reviews on products which are no longer available (I think there was some MSA kit a while back). Thanks!

Thanks for the quick response, jhm! Wanted to make sure this was the case before stirring up a ruckus with Wolf Creek. I'll wait for others to chime in as well, but I'm thinking some loctite on the nuts for the studs and safety wiring the CV bolts should be just fine. Edit: Since your axle adapters were also machined oversize I'm certain that there are others out there (if not all) machined to this spec in volume. Curious what others have been doing as the Wolf Creek site and HybridZ post above contradict this.