Dat73z

Also, you should be able to check your timing from #1. It's been a while but after the calibration I locked down the distributor and haven't touched it since (no need to rotate after calibration to change timing). I recall the timing was pretty spot on at idle from what I had set in the 123tune and I could see the changes I was making with the timing gun for each tuning iteration. Really handy to have a tunable dist via smartphone app.

Not matching #1 on cap is fine. What's important is you correctly locate #1 terminal based on the calibration and ensure the firing order (and spark plugs) are hooked up in the correct order. Double check your firing order and tdc calibration (piston #1 up and bunny ears on #1 cam lobes). I personally dropped the oil pump and drive shaft to clock the rotor closer to where #1 used to be as I'm running some custom spark plug cables I had made for the ZX dist (specific lengths to cylinders). Again what's important is tdc calibration, correctly locating #1, and ensuring you follow the firing order. In terms of the triples you will need to warm up the engine, check for vacuum leaks, adjust valves, new plugs, sync carbs, set fuel pressure, adjust floats, etc. In other words make sure all 3 carbs are doing the same thing then start tuning...hopefully you have a wideband o2 because that makes life much easier. New ignition or not they will run like garbage until you get everything dialed in . A hot ignition like pairing msd6al to the 123 and opening up spark plug gaps will significantly help cold starts and drivability but may mask a poor tune. Report back and let us know if you get it resolved, good luck!

Yep it works pretty good thanks to the guidance here on hybridz. My rpm never dips that low (maybe when I get the AC installed) but I'm sure the cranking timing helps a bit and starting/idle/power delivery across the rev range feels better than the ZX dist. Next level of tuning would be to hook up the vacuum line and add timing for light load/cruise which I'm sure would make a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

Here is what I am currently running on my 123ignition BT. Probably room for improvement but runs great (went from points to 280zx dist to 123ignBT). I drive the car nearly every day and haven't really messed with the tune over the past 6-8 months or so after setting it up. L25 with triple Weber DCOE 40s.

Just a quick update for anyone looking to do this. I got in touch with ATL and they offer a steel version of he ring p/n TF110S about 70$

Hi all, So in these next couple of weeks I will be getting an ATL black box into my factory 240z fuel tank. For access hole cut into the top of the gas tank who makes a steel threaded 24 nut plate for welding to the tank? Everything I have seen is either composite or aluminum. Here is what I'm after: http://www.atlinc.com/pdfs/Design-Helper/Plates-Nutrings/TF110.pdf https://jacob80a.wordpress.com/2012/01/30/gas-tank/ I'm open to other options and ideas as well. Thanks all!

I removed my pan in my 240z and installed the AZC pan as well. I recall pulling the pan was fairly straightforward. I jacked the engine up a bit after loosening the front mounts and tied the engine off by the hood latch. From there just carefully maneuvered the pan out around the pickup. Installing the AZC pan with the engine in the car was a different story though but also doable.

Hi all, I am currently setting up a triple sidedraft carb blowthrough turbo project on a L-series and am working on gathering components for the fuel system. Here is my current setup as installed on the car NA with triples: 1) 1973 240z gas tank 2) Rising rate Mallory/MSD bypass FPR (Return to top vent on tank) 3) Carter 4070 Fuel Pump (Using stock feed) Here is what I have available to me: 1) 1975 280z EFI gas tank 2) Rising rate bypass FPR (could use existing Mallory or similar...need to remount in engine bay for vacuum line) 3) FI Fuel pump selection Here are the Q's: 1) I'm looking to run a Walbro 255 or similar (http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl392-inline-fuel-255lph-pump.html). The rating for the pump is 43-87 PSI and I'll need to regulate it down to 3-4 psi to run the triples off boost. Anyone ever try to regulate down a FI pump to carb pressures and if so any issues there? 2) I'm debating between running the 75 280z EFI tank, modified 240z tank, or a custom tank. Don't want to run a fuel cell. With the stock 240z tank and the carter pump on mallory regulator I was initially having difficulty regulating the pressure down to 4psi using the top 1/4" vent as return on bypass. I am assuming with the rising rate bypass FPR I don't want to put a deadhead regulator before the carbs as I'll need more fuel pressure on boost. Any thoughts on plumbing the bypass off reg to the stock 280z tank return? Not sure if the return diameter is sufficient to keep the off boost fuel pressure down or I'll need to modify the tank anyways. Thanks!

Hi all, Figured I'd get some thoughts before I go to town on this. Have a set of DCOE 40 151's I rebuilt myself. To get a nice idle I need to crank down the idle screws which exposes the first set of progression holes and idle AFR's are 10 flat. 900-1000 RPM idle with 50F9 idle jets with the idle mixture screws 2.5 turns out. Timing set at 34-35 BTDC at 3500 RPM. Gets lean (~15 AFR's) at the transition between the idle circuit and mains and pops on occasion. I'm thinking this is because the first progression hole is uncovered on all 3 carbs and bleeding out that system. Mains/air correctors seem fine and I'm at 12-13AFR's on the mains so also a bit rich so maybe I can go a size up on the air correctors? Car drives decently but exhaust tip is covered in black soot from running rich at idle I presume. I've tried covering the progression holes to where a light tip in of the throttle allows the butterflies to expose the first progression hole and turning out the air bleed screws to where the engine will idle. The problem is I need to turn the air bleed screws all the way out and the some of the carbs begin to drip fuel from the trumpets (4PSI fuel pressure). Also, I hear an audible air leak on one of the carb barrels at this setting so it seems like the setting is too far out. I've been thinking of drilling a small hole in each of the butterfly plates (1/32" starting to 1/16" from what I've read online) to let air bypass the butterflies and not have to crank the air bypass screws all the way out to keep the first progression holes covered. Thoughts on this and am I approaching this the wrong way? Thanks!

Depending on how low you are, my experience is 15x8+0 and 225 50's will fit with a slight roll.

Also maybe a return higher in the tank would be better? Looks like the #2 area would be submerged in fuel thus the return would need to fight that additional head? I'll take a look and report what I find. From reading online it sounds like people have repurposed the vents for bypass/return before. Worst case I could get another pump but I'm going to try a couple things before going down that path.

That actually sounds like a good idea. Was thinking the #2 vent since it would be easy for me to get a new fitting on the reg where I've mounted it and just unplug the existing hose/run a new hose to that location (#2 hose is visible and accessible from under the car). Haven't had time to measure the hose diameters yet but the #2 hose already looks like 2x the ID of the factory return which is smaller than a drinking straw. I'm thinking this should drop me somewhere in the 4psi range for the triples...hopefully lower. Was actually surprised the Carter 4070 pump is putting out so much pressure (~6-8+psi) after reading online that you don't need a reg for it and triples but fortunately my friend convinced me to get a reg anyways.

Thanks for the insight, yep 3/8 return stated for Mallory/MSD reg. Also have a smaller feed from the carter pump as well but I am not sure if that makes a difference here. Was running the mechanical pump deadheaded and after dripping fuel everywhere I came to find my mechanical was putting out 14psi! Decided to go electric for feed consistency instead of a deadhead reg off the mechanical. Worst case scenario I could drop the tank and get some larger feed/return lines welded but I'm trying to avoid that at the moment. So it sounds like #2 at the thin portion of the tank is the way to go?

Hi all, After dealing with some high fuel pressure issues I think I've realized my return line from a bypass regulator is too small. Here are the details: 1) Stock 73 240z feed into Carter pump, outlet to Mallory/MSD 3psi min FPR 2) Mallory/MSD FPR return to stock return (tiny diameter, restrictive) 3) FPR turned all the way down, solid 5psi fuel pressure at last carb (triple Weber DCOE 40 deadheaded) I'm thinking I should plug the stock return and repurpose one of 3 larger tank vents as the return, but which one? I'm thinking either #1 or #2 in the attached pic. I've also attached a pic of my FPR/pump setup for reference. Check out the tiny return on the bypass side of the reg (bottom). Hoping this can bring me closer to 3-4 psi as testing the reg without the return restriction shows around that pressure range. Thanks!

Thanks, that seems like the general consensus from what I've read. A recore and sealing up the endtanks may be the way to go here.

Hi all, After replacing every coolant line and the heater control valve I'm looking at replacing my heater core due to a pinhole leak. Does anyone have recommendations on a replacement heater core? I was looking at this unit from ZCarSource of AZ: http://www.zcarsource.com/heater-core-240z-70-73-new_8_56539_66436.html So far as I can tell, rebuilding my OEM heater core would cost a about 50-100$+ more locally so I've been looking at replacement options. Thanks!

Just a quick update- thanks again for the help on this. Wired it up per above and got spark. Motor now stumbles and wants to fire but no dice. Probably need to play with timing and the settings on the triples a bit more. Edit- got it running.

Yep, just re-read my post and realized I was completely grounding the coil out. Was pretty tired when I was hooking it all up and stopped when I noticed the coil getting hot...glad I didn't start a fire. So only 2 wires will run from the coil negative, correct? 1) First wire to the C terminal on E12-80 2) Second wire to tach I think the confusion also is that I have a really late 73' 240z with a 3 wire tach...need to trace the wire back from the tach and figure out where it goes or run a new wire per the zgarage diagram.

Thanks NewZed- great info as always. The 2 original wires that are coming from the OE chassis wires show 12V and drop to 8V when I only plug in the coil (nothing else connected). Chances are I'm using the wrong wires at the coil? One is black/white (positive post). The other is black (ground). I'll take another look when I get home tonight.

Hi all, I was hoping to get some thoughts on a no spark issue with a 280zx distributor swap. Here is a bit of background and what I've checked so far: 1) Coil is a new MSD 8222: http://www.msdperformance.com/Products/Coils/Race/8222_-_High_Vibration_Blaster_Coil.aspx I checked +/- voltage going to coil and it is 12v (battery) with ignition key in "on" position. Voltage coming out of the coil and going to e80 module is around 9V with no ballast resistor. Primary resistance in coil measured as 0.7 ohms. 2) Wired up e80 module straight to coil like this: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/e1280x.jpg Was getting ~9V to e80 straight from coil. Was thinking maybe it needed a full 12V so wire straight from battery to e80? Don't recall what the stock points coil output voltage was, but I measured the terminals with the same meter and was getting ~1.5 ohms primary resistance minus ballast resistor which sounds correct. 3) No Spark Pulled a spark plug and grounded to valve cover bolt then cranked, no spark. Spark plug wires are known to be in good order and working (as in pulled off my buddies running car). Spark plugs are all brand new NGK's, gapped to factory specs (don't recall specs offhand but used the FSM). 4) Coil gets really hot with key in ON position for more than a couple of minutes Hot as in burning skin to the touch hot. Thanks! Getting really excited to get this thing back on the road. Bit more background...brand new cap + rotor, 280zx distributor and e80 module are in unknown condition- bought them used and never tested although there is no shaft play and everything "looks" ok. Any easy way to test the ignition module? Buddy might have a spare one I could try, but that may take some time.

Were you looking for measurements of the ES bushing clamp? If so I can snag the dimensions for you tonight, I ordered up a universal one after measuring the ST rear sway drop bars a while back. Thought you were looking for the final dimensions of the bracket I've been measuring up. Only difference for me may be the thickness of material used as the ST rear sway drop bars are what they are. Yeah, I put a jack under the rear LCA with the coil turned all the way down so I wouldn't be fighting the spring. Once the frame just starts to lift off the jack I measured something like 1.5" between the sway bar endlink hole and the rear LCA endlink hole. With the CV in place at "ride height" it was something like a 1-2" swing up for the swaybar before hitting the CV. Would be maybe another 1/2" gained there with the sway bar spaced back due to the bends being positioned more optimally. It'll fit for sure, but need to find a good height for the endlink although it seems doubtful the suspension would ever reach full droop unless I start 2-wheeling around the track . Edit: Actually if memory serves (pulled the old sway off a year ago when I decided to rebuild the sus/brakes/drivetrain) the original sway setup I had was actually hitting the stock u-joints at full droop. Didn't drive the car enough to figure out if that was an issue, but I found that interesting. Also by design the "clamp on" style brackets spaced the sway bar back around 0.5-0.75".

Thanks guys, Do you recall how far back you spaced your swaybar? Finally got some time to throw the rear diff in there and mock up the car at ride height. It looks like I'll need closer to a 1-2" spacer. I'm thinking with grade 8 swaybar mounting hardware (or better) this should be fine as the shear characteristics won't change substantially with a solid spacer. Thoughts? Edit: Also spacing back that far is to partially account for interference with the CV's. It's a really tight fit and the angle of the swaybar from the back is not conducive to good clearance. At full droop sway touches the CV's with a short endlink distance. Still figuring out the final measurements for this thing.

I plan to do the same but I want to make sure I get everything straight. Really it's just some rectangles and holes, could do it with a chop saw . Easy peasy.

Mike- thanks for the idea. Interesting concept, but I think I'm going to try to keep it simple for the first go around. Eventually I want to run heim joints for the sway bars, but that'll come later as I develop the car...want to get it back on the road first! seattlejester- not a problem. I'm going to measure out the dimensions this week and prototype up some brackets out of AL stock on my buddy's mill once I figure out what stock to order. Probably take 30 mins-1 hr total, but this is a slow moving project so probably won't get back to you until next week .

Thanks! Great info in that thread. After a quick measurement, looks like 1/2" aluminum stock will do the trick just fine.