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Everything posted by Jboogsthethug
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That's great info, that points me in the right direction! So if/when you get the AIM PDM are you just taking out the racecapture? Maybe I'm just not seeing it but it seems like all of AIM's displays are also dataloggers aren't they?
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I am very interested in seeing how this pans out. For some reason i can't seem to find any threads that have the swap 100% done (though I can see that they are out there as people reference them). I'll grab some popcorn and watch you finish it in this build!
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
So I'm active on the 240z subreddit and a fellow enthusiast on there was giving away these sweet original brochures from Sweden or whatever. I messaged him and he sent them over, what a great guy! These were pretty cool to get. I plan on framing them and hanging them in the garage.- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Very interesting. Does the subframe swap just give your rear suspension better geometry overall? Just curious why people swap it out if they're not doing the AWD or something.
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Dang this is looking good! Is that an R32 subframe? How hard is it to fit in? Also, you're not doing AWD are you? Just rear?
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Man I can't believe I've never seen this thread! So stoked to find it while it's nearing completion! It's looking awesome so far!
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
@Boben Good suggestion! I'm sure I'll apply something like that to it to make sure I don't suddenly lose all my oil! And this is the exact one I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Intercooler-25X12X3-2-5-Inlet-Outlet-Toyota-Acura-BWM-Audi-Honda-Mazda/161332406851?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It's now $1100 apparently which is crazy because I paid $78 bucks for it ha. I was able to use the 90 degree rubber and it fit perfectly! Like a glove, no cutting needed! Any bigger would definitely require cutting I bet. The openings are 2.5" FWIW.- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Hey Ben, what are your thoughts about your digi dash setup? Do you like it? Do you wish you did it differently or are you happy with it? Also, if your engine throws codes, it doesn't show up does it?
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Note: One problem I had with the low pressure pump is they no longer make it and so I couldn't get a replacement for the little weird bolt it had. These were stripped and the threads were so small that it didn't instill confidence. So instead I made my own substitutes with some threaded rod of the same diameter as the smooth piece that fits in the rubber grommet and a few nuts placed around. Worked perfect! I do have reservations about it cutting through the rubber but I figure it won't cut completely through, only as deep as the threads.- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
So the last I updated about the fuel I was trying to make the stock tank work. After fiddling around with that for a bit I decided I'd rather just get a cheap fuel cell and run with that! So here's the cheap eBay beaut in all her glory! You can see this is the setup of it all for the most part. I laid it out to get a clear picture of things. I got tired of trying to fit it in the wheel well so instead I cut that off! I was careful not to cut into the metal of the actual floor but instead only cut the wheel well material. I want to use the flange for a cover or something. Next I cut slightly into the leftover wheel well flange. I did these little cuts all around it and then pried each piece off while drilling and grinding away the tack welds. Next, I started on the frame supports for the fuel cells. I used just some angle iron across the the subframe in the back. I later on went and used some flat pieces to fix the gap on the ends. I needed that to be that los in order to have the correct angle for the gas. These tabs will hold it on on this side. A mockup for how it will look. After testing the actual cells I realized I made a mistake here so I cut off these tabs, marked up the new spots and welded some new ones on! I used some flat aluminum from a local metal supplier and just measured and bent with my hammer and a vise! Turned out perfect on this and a little loose on the smaller one. I did add strips of window seal on the sindises to keep it from rattling and hold it tighter. Looking great now! I then ground it all down and painted it with primer and some undercoating. Then I drilled all the holes and started fitting things in one piece at a time. I did all the AN fittings and hoses and just tried to optimize it as good as possible. The "final" result: I know these aren't exactly high end race cells but this is plenty of overkill for my needs! I later added better hardware to hold it all together and I bought a fuel pump holder for the Bosch pump.- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Yeah the hope is really soon. I still have some updating to do but I'm very close to getting it started. I need a little bit of cash to get a few tidbits to finish it off though!- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
So after getting the mounts figured out, I then decided to focus on getting the engine put together. I wanted to see what I'm missing, get everything built out, wiring figured out and hopefully do a first startup! So, I pulled out the boxes and laid out all the pieces ha. This went together pretty quickly as it's all bolt on stuff. First, the intake! Then I put the starter and turbo in. It was at this point I remembered I had an oil return line that was directly under my engine mount. Originally the mounts were much less angles downwards which made it possible to put the hose on under the mount. My new mounts have a harsh angle which made that impossible so instead I drilled a hold straight through the mount and had the hose hook up straight through. Not sure how well it will work yet. I may want to go in and dimple the hole but we'll see ha. Works for now and I'll keep an eye on it! After that, most of the bolt ons were on so I started doing the piping for the intercooler! I had so many pieces of this so it was pretty easy. I apparently didn't get a ton of pictures of this stage but here is the almost final result! I did end swapping out the passenger side pipe coming out of the intake manifold for a pipe that already had the blow off valve welded on. The wheel well required some "massaging" with my rubber mallet to get it to fit but I'm eventually planning on cutting that out anyway so I'm not worried. You'll notice that I have a sweet Mishimoto radiator as well. I won it with an instagram video contest and I figured rather than find a radiator with a passenger side intake hole I would just try and make it work with some radiator piping. More to come!- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Oh awesome restoration by the way! I love watching people that know what they're doing. I would've done mine really nice if I knew how but as I'm using this as a big ole learning experience I went straight race car!
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Curious where you got your rear quarter panels from? And how much did they run you?
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Man this makes me want my own powder coating setup! One day. I just want to coat a bunch of the tiny details.
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Man the acceleration at :36 is impressive! I can't wait to hit some autocross up and get familiar with my car, makes me stoked!
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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
Jboogsthethug replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Those rock guard covers are cool, I've always wondered about that area and didn't realize there was a product for that! -
Metal Magoo's 280Z Resurrection
Jboogsthethug replied to MetalMagoo's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Man that is a project! With the skills you seem to have I'm going to keep an eye on this and watch the updates happen. -
big block Z, "across the centuries"
Jboogsthethug replied to Michael's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
@NewZed True that. THere used to be a whole lot more activity here even just like 3 years ago. Now it's a ghost town which is sad. I've always liked the community here. Sorry to hijack ha. You truly are a rare breed these days Michael. Hope to see more on your car soon! -
Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Also, I forgot to post this here but I'm also going to be posting videos covering the updates. Here's the first one just introducing it. I will actually stick with it this go around ha. I settled on naming it "The Shogun" because I felt it was fitting!- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Thanks amigo! Getting close!- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)
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Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build
Jboogsthethug replied to Jboogsthethug's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
When I did the first set of mounts I learned a few things but also did them in ways that I wasn't excited about per se. I later learned more and so I tried to apply my new knowledge with the second set. Firstly, I didn't know how to keep the motor straight. I learned a bit via the internet and found a nifty trick of using a string tied in the direct center front to back. So after a few measurements and marks, here we go! I also did my best to level out the engine beforehand but it ended up being a 1 degree downslope towards the rear. I would've preferred the opposite (1-3 degrees sloping forward) but with my oil pan being bigger it didn't allow my engine to drop forward as much as I'd like. That's ok, I have future plans that will make this oil pan obsolete so I'll get it perfect then! Of course, the engine does still have a slight lean to match factory. Here's a thread I started that might help anyone interested in learning more about that.: Using the rubber mallet to get things dialed in before fabbing. You can see I have a piece of MDF board sitting on my cross member giving me a tiny (1/8" or so) gap from the bottom of my oil pan to the top of the crossmember. I also removed the stock mounts as I decided to go straight solid mount on the motor and tranny mounts. I cut these piece off the first set of mounts as I knew I could easily reuse them. Gearing up for the measurements. First, I made these as the base for the mounts to the crossmember. I then put a bolt through and tightened them down so they wouldn't move. Did the same with the engine side of things too. Then, I made measurements and got it perfect with cardboard! Not the kind with the air pockets in them. The kind that is thin and stiff works best! I just did my best with measurements first then took my time and got the pieces perfect. You can see the passenger side is longer and skinnier than I would've liked but that's also due to the oil pan size. Should be plenty strong still! Transferred to some 1/4" (if I remember correctly) thick metal. Plenty strong I'd think! Cut out! The tabs, rectangle bar and the two squares on the left are for the tranny. Cleaned up the rust ha, looks much better! I put the pieces in place and tacked them up, here they are before the back plates were added. Then fully welded! My welds are getting better. Not perfect but I'm happy with my progress in that realm. In place and bolted down to check for warping. Fits great! Then on to the tranny. The RB25 tranny causes problems with the stock tranny mounts as far as fitment goes. The speed sensor is in the exact spot of the mounts and just hits it. Plus, as you saw from my first mounts you have to add extensions to mount up and it puts undesirable leverage on the stock mounts. So instead, I cut those completely out and used the tabs and the bigger squares I fabricated earlier to weld on new tabs. I welded the squares in the place I'd want the tabs to spread the load a bit across the thinner metal. Then I welded the tabs to those squares. I used the rectangle bar, drilled it out and bolted it up to the tranny. I removed the stock bushing mount from the tranny and bolted to that mount. I drilled big holes on one side and small holes on the other to access the bolts easily. You can see I accidentally drilled those backwards and since I had no more bar left I cut tabs and welded over the big holes then reversed it. You can also see the side holes that allowed my bolts to go straight through the tabs and old it in place. My welds are less good here as I am not great at overhead welding yet ha. Oops! Welded up a bit. They will hold but they are not pretty ha. I'll clean them up later when I get under to paint. All in and solid! I am feeling much better with these mounts. More to come!- 168 replies
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- rb25det swap
- 1971 240z build
- (and 4 more)