Stealth-Z

It is in the mail to you via parcel post. The cost was less than $5.00, no big deal.

You have a name I can address it to? I'm at work now so I will dig it out tonight and put it in a padded envelope.

If you need an L28 rod. I can help you out. Just pay for shipping.

I am planing on using a set of those on my 78 Fairlady Z. Had them on a 73 Fairlady Z sixteen years ago. They require very little cutting or modification to fit. 1977-1979 Skyline? I am not to sure of the years.

Ended for $405.00 Yikes! Now there is a sizable bet. Hope it works out for the winner.

Someone out bid you. No need to be nervous now. It could be a VLSD rather than an open diff. Good luck finding axles shafts for that one! A while back I was in a Pick-n-Pull and there was a guy starting to pull the rear out of a 85 Turbo Z. He was all excited about finding an LSD out of a Turbo Z. I told him they came in the 87-88 models. Plus I even spun the wheels to check. Sure enough it was a stock open. He told me I did not know what I was talking about. Ooookay, have a good day.

Saw this on ebay and immedietly thought of it as gambling. New Seller, 0 feedback, does not take paypal. Hmm? Look at the price already! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=260021218811&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Racinjitter found this place a few days ago. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109458&page=2 post #26 After going to the link http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=756 My stomach kind of turned. Markup on RB parts are incredible! Notice how much a tensioner and idler go for? Comes down to supply and demand. But I still hate having the "Buyers Blues"

It may have a cracked weld on the bottom of the tank. The same model is sitting in my garage. My brother had it for several years and hardly used it. Once we plugged it in and started to build pressure you could hear the leak. We did manage to weld it up though.

I just received an N1 oil pump last week. He still has some for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Skyline-N1-OIL-pump-RB20DET-RB25DET-RB26DETT_W0QQitemZ270011243709QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6778QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Auxilary's website http://www.rotaryz.com/

August of 2003 is when mine arrived from showcars. They said mine was supposedly ready to ship when purchased off ebay. It was about 12 weeks before finally receiving it. You are already aware of the quality so I need not say how much more work is being done to it. I am sure you will get it, eventually that is. Just be persistant. I forget how much my long distant phone bill was. At least it is Canada and not Mexico or someplace worse.

The heat has slowed me down some. I cannot give you a time frame on the rear flare install. Will provide you an update when I can. As for the rear bumper, I have never measured the coupe vs. 2+2. The Fairlady Z has rear bumpers like the 240Z. So mine is not like the stateside 280Z's huge protruding setups.

Everything from the firewall/cowl forward is interchangable with the coupes. ZG flares and G-Nose are not a problem. Mine is getting a G-Nose and ZG flares. From the door hinges back is a different story. The coupe does have a narrower rear end. The BRE spoiler is not wide enough. I have a 3 piece spoiler from a coupe and the shape of the side pieces does not come close to fiting the 2+2 back end. The ZG rear flares do not seem to sit quite right. I may end up just molding the flares in for a smooth look. Nice to know there are others that like the 2+2's. Repair of the rust can be done. Take a look at what mull is doing. This will definetly give you an idea of how far someone will go to fix a rust problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106731

All the kits I have seen are for coupes. Lowest price has been on ebay. If you have a 2+2 it is an extra $200.00. The door seals are different. Plus the 2+2 is not as popular so no one makes to many of the parts for them.

Another member, fraz, had this comment about the pistons an suggestion for a turbo. He has been building RB30's for some time now as well: I would say they (pistons) would be suitable, but you realise that 9:1 comp and 1.5bar would give you somewhere around 600hp!! With those pistons and a gt35r turbo you would have some serious torque, like real serious! I would go a gt3540 as the high comp would get you started before the turbo kicked in, which is still nice and low even with a gt3540. you could get a gt3540r if you wanted better spool up with a real serious top end. A rb30det with 8.2-8.3:1 comp and 1 bar boost is pretty impressive, less angry feeling than a gtr, but on the highway the rb30 would eat it. With 9:1 it would start to get angry, but you could still comfortably run it on 91-93 octane and 1bar. I need to keep the stock R33 RB26 top end setup to get by the California smog referee. My Fairlady Z still falls under the gray import market so I have some leeway with the referees.

Sydney Kid, a Skylines Down Under member has provided very helpful information to me about the RB30 builds. He has experience with these more than any I have seen so far. So I trust his advice. This is what he has to say about the build I am doing. you really need to have the block the pistons and the head all together and measure them. It is no big deal to machine up to 1 mm off the cylinder head and 1.5 mm off the block. You can run the piston out of the bore by 0.25 mm. There are head gaskets from 0.8 mm to 1.8 mm. So there is no problem juggling those 4 parameters to achieve the compression ratio you want. As long as the pistons you are getting are pretty much flat top (with fly cuts) you will be able to achieve anything from 7.9 to 9.3 to 1.

The airbags and dash should fetch a good price. My brother has a 2000 Z28 and he had a heck of a time finding replacements. I guess its a good sign when they do not deploy. His did not even hit to hard. I was seriously eyeing the motor and trans for my Z. But he bought it back from the insurance company and repaired it. He works for a body shop and even with his discounts the parts were expensive.

Their new home :D/

When in the Philippines last year I discovered a factory built RB24. Nissan put this SOHC carburated motor in the export model Cefiro. The info below was retrieved from Wikipedia RB24s - single-cam This is a relatively unknown engine, as it was not produced for the Japanese domestic market. These were fitted to some left hand drive Nissan Cefiros exported from Japan new. Mechanicly it is made from an RB30e head, RB25de/det block and RB20de/det crank with 34 mm heigh pistons. This engine used carberators instead of the Nissan ECCS fuel injection system. This has the outcome of it being able to rev harder than the RB25de/det (as it has the same stroke as the RB20de/det) as well as being almost the same displacment as the RB25de/det. A common modification is to fit a twin cam head from other RB series motors while retaining the carberated set-up. In standard single cam form it produced 141 PS @ 5000 rpm and 20.1 kgf·m of torque @ 4,400 rpm This might be an interesting RB24DET variant to build.

A while back I remembered seeing something about a pull to push conversion kit. I would think it would work for the R34 trans as well https://www.rhdjapan.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=697

It looks like it takes the signal from the speed sensor and converts it to a mechanical cable that can be plugged into the stock speedometer. With this you would not need an electronic speedo. Just trying to make a suggestion. Most of the few RB swaps I have seen do not have functioning speedometers.

Here is an interesting possible solution to the Speedometer issues. http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm Cable X A Simple Solution to a Speedometer Problem. The Cable X is the easy, cost-efficient way to operate your stock mechanical speedometer with a transmission equipped with vehicle speed sensor. The Cable X is basically an universal adapter that will pick up the electronic speedometer signal and will operate the cable driven speedometer to the corresponding speed. It's a snap to install with only three wires - hot, ground and signal. No costly installation of drive gears or long messy cables to deal with. The Cable X is a one-of-a-kind solution to your speedometer problem. So solve it today, by giving us a call FREE at: 1-800-643-5973.

I have some extra flywheel bolts. I can put them in a small bubble wrap envelope and mail them to you. PM me an address. On quick question for you. The picture of the transmission you have http://x11.putfile.com/2/5018125833.jpg It looks like a 300ZX trans.

Dan, The gear on the RB26 crank I sold you came off with my bare fingers. I started to push 2 screw drivers behind it and just slid off. Since you were taking apart a RB20, are you building a RB24 by any chance?