Savage42

Yep, all that emissions stuff went bye-bye on my motor. Just need to delete the emissions from the PCM to keep from getting codes.

Hey Ron! Can you help me put the C5 Z06 setup in my Z? You made it look easy!

Camber would only change if it's sagging on that side. Ride height has to be lower to cause more negative camber. If everything looks right, probably a bent control arm. You need an adjustable rear crossmember to really make it right.

My question is why do they make a set of headers for the S30 LS1 conversion (with either mounts) that have clearance issues with spark plug boots hitting the primary tubes? Absolutely frustrating!! Am I the only one who is annoyed at needing to wrap the header or boot to keep it from getting fried?

Here is additional info that one of the 510 guys got from the manufacturer: Thanks for contacting us. The "Retro 4" our new version of the Libre will be available in 15x7 and 4x4.5" bolt pattern. Currently the schedule for that wheel is for it to be available in April/ May. The price will be $190ea. that will include a cap, lugs and valve stems. The 14x7 is scheduled to be available later this year. I hope this information is helpful. Regards Terry

Well, if they would make a 16" or 17" version, that would be REALLY cool. At least it's a cool option for those running 15" wheels and race tires! http://www.vtowheels.com/retro4.html

Now, if someone would make the unit a true "bolt in" setup, I'm sure more would be sold. having to do custom work to get them to work really limits many from buying it. Maybe someday......

I have one on my LS6 and have about 1.5" of clearance. Here's a pic of the engine mounted on the crossmember, but rack not installed. You can see that there is plenty of room.

There's nothing to really "upgrade", but it's typically just a matter of transmission mount and driveline. Not a big deal to go either route.

I went with the auto, not only for ease of driving in city, but it's nice to be able to drop the hammer and just hold on until you lift or see God. There are benefits to the 4L60E when comparing them to the older transmissions. As mentioned, since they are all electronically controlled, shift points, lockup, etc and call be programmed and a paddle shifter setup can be used. I'm of a different opinion, as I like working the gears on a road course, but with the crazy power/weight ratio of and LSX S30, there isn't really much of a downside to the auto setup. It's purely a personal preference, IMHO.

Whether low or high speed, the car will push (understeer) a ton, unless you soften up the front bar and add more negative camber in the front. A welded diff can be made to work pretty well, but the suspension needs to be setup for it. Since each car and driving style is different, it'll take some trial and error with sway bars, spring rates, camber settings, shock setting, etc. to get the most of it. Oh, steering will be quite a bit heavier than normal, too. Work out those arms!

I have the wheel from optioin #1 that I'm selling on ebay. You can buy the adapter for $45, so it'll save you $75. Just thought I'd pass that along. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190347173643

At my buddy's shop, we NEVER put Dex back into anything! If you are starting new, just use the green stuff. If not, flush well and then use the green stuff.

I have the #1 steering wheel, although I'm not going to use it, as I want a different model. As for shift knob, I still go with option #1, even though I don't have a manual trans in the V8 Z.

What did it come out of? After talking to my buddy, a Z 5-speed has less than optimal gearing from an L16 powered 510, as the overdrive is great for the freeway but not good for around town. The '82 ZX trans and truck gear boxes are much better and is what he's really looking for.

If it's wedged between 2 mounts, it may be too firm to allow to dampen and more vibrations will be felt through the car. You want some movement, just not a lot.

exactly!!!!

No! The mount is pretty stiff and interlocks (internally), so it doesn't move much all. (which is shouldn't, anyway!) The force during acceleration actually goes upward, so it's actually the way it should have been built in the first place, instead a big chunk of rubber that's trying to be be torn apart every time you accelerate.

Hey guys! A good friend needs a 5-speed for his son's Datsun 510. Does anyone have a 5 speed from a Z/ZX or truck? Not many laying around the yards here in Oregon, so thought I'd check with you guys. We are here in Eugene, OR. Thanks!