BJSZED

I think you're on the right track checking fuel quantity in the bowls and fuel pressure. When I start my engine cold the fuel filter is mostly full and you can see air slowly entering the line in the form of an occasional bubble probably from having a less than perfect fuel line hose connection somewhere by the tank. After the engine is fully warm the fuel filter is 3/4 full. Car runs well either way but doesn't sound right to have air in there although I only run an aftermarket mechanical pump. Also, I have read that the aftermarket mechanical pumps use a different type of diaphragm material which expands more when warm which can affect fuel flow. It doesn't appear to be a problem in my case. Like Chickerman said, it's likely a fuel issue but still could be spark. Does the Mallory distributor use points or an ignition module? An ignition module can break down intermittently especially with heat.

Didn't see that you checked the coil ? Try exchanging it for a known good one. Also take a look at your plugs if you haven't. When it loses power is it sudden and jerky like ignition or smoother loss of power like fuel ? Sorry, just re-read that you changed coil and plugs..oops

would love to see it as well

Most of us are, eh!

Pretty cheap on rockauto.com. Hard to beat, that's the route I went.

I had Whiteheads supply and install bigger intake, exhaust valves, guides and seats into an early e88 head that I supplied. They had to do some aluminum repair, resurfaced the head. No porting or polishing. I cant remember the exact cost but was in the $1300.00 to $1500.00 tax included, Canadian. Quality of the work was #1, no issues. Was it pricey, maybe? I would imagine labour hours add up fast and you get what you pay for.

I would have liked to see the missing comments as I believe New Zed is correct. It's an SOB when you're wrong and can't make it disappear, wish I could !

The 2nd photo still makes the most sense to me. You can see the oil wiping ridges which would be on the gear case side where the oil is. I've got a bad habit of throwing old seals and parts out which I regret, as no future reference since my memory is crap. I don't know what make of seal is pictured but is it possible that if it's aftermarket it is designed a different way ? I do remember a big difference in the shape of an oem seal vs aftermarket.

I believe you can still get an oem seal from Nissan. It has an obvious taper to it to match the taper of the main shaft. I had a Timken seal which didn't look quite right so I ordered oem if I remember right. I believe your second photo is the correct way. Like I said put it in so the taper is on the same side of the tapered mainshaft.

Throw out bearing collar should match the pressure plate used. So if your using the pressure plate listed for the 77 5 speed use the collar that comes with it.

I always thought out the center would look cool. Something like a Jag E type, searched on line but didn't find much. The only one that's out the center that comes to mind is the " Dare to be different in a Datsun 240z " youtube video

Wrap a rag around it and twist and pull with some channel locks. It should come out easily.

rockauto.com if you can spend the bucks

Hey Enzo, I have the same induction setup as you. Sent a pm so I don't mess up the op's thread.

I put a new boot seal on, didn't use anything...works fine. If you are re-using the old one, might be looser. Ziptie probably best

That was a creative solution...good job...jb weld in the hole would work too.

Also, and this is my last 2 cents, lol. You may be able to have the pin loosen if you remove it like a ball joint. Loosen the nut a turn or two, then using a punch and hammer tap the lever on the side. The pin is wedged like the stud on a ball joint and I get ball joint to pop loose by hitting the knuckle with a hammer. The vibration pops the joint loose from the knuckle...saves ribbed ball joint boots using the pickle fork. Hope that makes sense and good luck. Let us know what works.

If you could support the bottom lever and just loosen the nut so the threads are protected. Put very little heat where the pin goes through the lever ( so you don't take the temper out of the lever end ) and possibly lever against the nut with a prybar pivoting on the rear housing where the bearing supports are cut out. I would try that 1st without heat just to make sure the mechanics of it all will work.

Getting the nut off is no big deal, a 10mm wrench will do that. The problem is pushing the wedge pin back out. I did it on a 5 speed BUT it had an extra hole in the rear housing for the reverse lock out. I supported the lever and drove the pin out with a punch and hammer. This rear housing doesn't have that extra hole so the punch and hammer won't work. Wish I could offer some help, my guess is Nissan had a special tool ?

Maybe I'm missing something but why the surge tank when converting from FI to carbs ? Couldn't you just regulate the pressure down ? Carbs have float bowls so a surge tank shouldn't be necessary.

Looking forward to the updates !

Nice setup ! Very interested in how the delayed secondary throttle plates will work. I have a 4 barrel throttle body setup which works very well at low and high revs, very smooth. All my throttle plates move at the same time. A couple things to watch out for is correct pcv operation with a dual plenum intake. And double check if your getting a proper ported vacuum signal for your distributor. Because of the small cubic inches, the throttle plates are more closed at idle and cruise which can affect the ported vacuum signal. I had to re-drill lower in the throttle bore. Anyway, I always like reading your posts, great job !

The filter should be filled with oil and then put on as well as filling the oil pump with oil before putting it on. Then you can turn the crankshaft with a ratchet etc. until oil comes out of the cam shaft holes or spray bar. That's what I did, didn't take too many revolutions to get oil to the top. You can leave your rockers off if you"re concerned about the cam.

I only use a lap belt. Shouldn't be an issue with a lap and shoulder belt. They will install cutout holes in the sides if wanted but I think they work fine without. These seats work great for the street but the lack of thigh support wouldn't work well on the track. They have other models with better thigh support but these are easy to get in and out of for street use.

Hey Guys, Thought I would share some info on seats that I purchased last winter. They're not cheap but they fit perfect, are comfy and are a sport classic style. I'm 5'10", 210 lbs with a wide back and I love them. They aren't like racing buckets so anyone wanting support to the knees wont like them. Got them from a company in the UK. They are made to order and come with or without headrests along with other options such as leather, colors etc. They were brutally slow to get, apprx 3 months but it was winter so that was ok. I have no clue how to attach a link to the company but if you google www.sportseats4u.co.uk The model is Cobra GT3 Historic Bucket Seats. I will attach two pics from their site showing them in an S30 as they're better than my pics and a few of my pics showing the use of the factory 72 240z rails. Basically I used some steel plates to adapt the narrower mounting points of the Cobra seats to the factory floor mounts. Knocked out the studs that hold the factory rails to the 240z seats, elongated the holes and bolted the rails up with a couple big ass washers as spacers. Following pics will explain better than I can.