BJSZED

I've been reading on-line and getting confused. I think the resistor comes into play on a 4 wire alternator. It is used instead of an alternator charge light. Without it apparently it won't charge at idle. I believe I just need the diode on the run/start ignition wire from the ignition switch to the alternator.

Looking for wisdom on whether I need a resistor, diode or both on my alternator upgrade ? I know I need the diode to prevent run on after the ignition switch is turned off but am unsure of the reason for the resistor ? - 1972 240z - 90 amp maxima alternator - new speedhut voltmeter which does not use a light ( for the resistance on the ignition circuit ) - new wiring, old voltage regulator is gone thanks for your input !

Yes, you have to cut those holes out. I used a step drill. Lot safer than a knife.

Yeah, that's from me. Working on the dash and leaving it rest upside down on the top trying to figure out how to mount all the gauges. It flattened them down a little. I'm hoping they will return when upright. If you are keeping the stock gauges, it would be perfect as they fit the holes perfectly. These 2 5/8 gauges are a little small.

I haven't read the thread on Classic Z but my experience was positive in the end. I will admit that I was getting nervous about being burned as I didn't use paypal and things kept being delayed. Hung Vu which I dealt with was reassuring and seemed very professional. The dash seems to be great quality. It attaches easily although they were missing the attachment plates in the center heater control area. I used silicone adhesive in this area as well as the lower area under the glovebox, under the steering column area and the two sides. I used painters tape to secure until the adhesive dried. The original dash has extra vinyl in these area which is pulled around the metal. This dash does not. You will see the attachment screws in the photo's. It's easier to use self drilling screws of the right length than use the original screws. If these guys make more 240z parts I would deal with them again.

I have one. Installed it on the metal frame. Fit well on the frame but it's not installed in the car yet. Yes, their communication is poor

Something else to consider ? Looked into it awhile back. Seemed to get good reviews by users. https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm

agree on the bumpers

Check this Blue Beast out. Saw this at an Autorama show in Ottawa Canada this weekend. Didn't see the owner around but apparently it's an engine out of a Nissan Patrol. Thought you S130 guys might like the pics although just crappy phone pics.

Good reviews on the fast system for the L6 on youtube. The only thing weird would be the two extra injector wires to deal with. I would cut them out.

I use Z-Rod in 10w30....seemed like a safe choice

Not exactly our Datsun layout but operation is the same.

On my 72 it connects to the block breather pipe and vents to the crankcase and then to the pcv valve when there is engine vacuum pulling on it. It will draw fuel in if it's in the line. Witnessed it. Vapor tank is a fuel/vapor separator, makes sense why the original line is connected to the highest point on the vapor tank.

I would be worried about the engine vacuum drawing in liquid fuel. I did something similar and wondered why the original vacuum line was rock hard and it was from drawing in liquid fuel. Sucked it up through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. Originally that line connects high on the vapor tank to draw in just vapors. Vapor tank does a great job keeping liquid fuel out of that line. Personally I wouldn't remove it.

Not sure if this relates or not but all the aftermarket efi throttle bodies etc want the positive and negative straight to the battery.

Might have to wait awhile for a response, lol. I'm still waiting. Did it myself in the meantime.

I would think if the cam was re-ground, there would be extra markings like engraving or stampings at the rear end of the cam. As for the head thickness you can measure it against stock specs for total thickness. I believe the stock US L26 pistons were dished but not 100 % sure. At least mine were.

I had this happen on an L28 that sat for a long long time. The valves were all gummed up from trying to run it on old stale gas. PS, you should correct your thread title. I wondered what lap pads were ?

I called thezstore and they weren't doing black Friday so I would assume they aren't doing cyber moonday

Black