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Also, if anyone has some links to these clean, unmolested 240Zs for $3-4k, I'm all ears. Everything I find, people want $5-6k for cars that need floorpans and doglegs replaced along with a new interior and paint. I'm far from in love with this car. I'm just going to look at it. I'm having a hard time finding these great deals in Southern California.

Believe me, it's not a pride thing. Like I said, I know cars, just not Zs. Maybe I worded something wrong and gave off the impression that I'm in over my head here, but I can assure you I'm not. That said, I had planned on taking a couple friends with who are part of the race team with me, so there will be more than one set of eyes. I was really just asking if there are any quirks or problem areas that need special attention, as many cars have common issues encountered by many different owners. Thanks again for your help.

I'm pretty familiar with older cars, just needed to know if there are any specific problem areas on Zs that I should pay special attention to. The great links you gave me should cover that. Good point on the parking brake. I hadn't thought of that. My intentions aren't to make a show car, but I want it to look respectable and last.

seattlejester, thanks for the links. I know cars, just not 240Zs. I have the swap (1UZ/W58) priced out for the most part, so I'm not worried about that getting out of hand. I'll check through all of them so I know the problem areas to look at. Here's the thing. I can handle mechanicals. Some friends and I race a V6 swapped Mk1 MR2 that we caged and built entirely by ourselves. Engine, transmission, brackets, etc don't scare me. What scares me is sheet metal. Despite doing a ton of work on cars, I've never ventured into the realm of bodywork. I'm trying to avoid a situation where I get a rusty shell and have to either weld a bunch of sheet metal or pay a shop to do it for me. All I want is a very straight, rust-free car that I can get to work on. Yep, that link is the car. Since everyone can look at it, let's talk about it a bit. I agree that a shell isn't worth 6k, but a full Stage 3 Wilwood setup, new stub axles, and a full interior adds up to north of $4k when you figure in tax and shipping. If those things all check out and are the real deal, then really I'm spending $1500-2000 on a supposedly straight and rust-free shell. To me, that seems reasonable. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm sorry for asking this since I'm sure it's been answered before, but I couldn't find anything through the search function. I've recently found a 240Z in the Inland Empire that I'm interested in. Reportedly no rust and a bunch of new parts to go with it. No engine/trans, but I was planning on a swap anyway. I'll be looking at it this weekend. As this will (hopefully) be my first Z-car, I'm wondering what are specific things to look at on a Z when buying it? Thanks