calZ

Borg Warner actually has a turbo match bot that you can use to size a turbo for your application. It's pretty cool and will get you in the ballpark even if you don't want a B-W turbo.

Ok, here are the 3 parts. I'll add the part numbers for the other stuff below. Nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/94855A281 Screw: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/90272A106 Spring: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657K327 Ball: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9528K15 If the links are broken for anyone looking at this in the future, the part numbers are just the last portion of those URLs after the slash. Hopefully McMaster doesn't ever change them. The springs actually ended up being a bit light for the application, and the connection was not completely consistent. I put two bearing balls in below the spring, and that worked great. You could also just space it with whatever washer or chunk of metal you want. There's another spring option: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657k345. That might be overkill, but it would definitely maintain a connection. QuickReleaseHornPTT.zip

What format would you guys like the part files in? I made them in FreeCAD, but I can export them in just about anything. You just might lose the pad/pocket/sketch data.

To add, I think if you have one of the nice, modern horn buttons you won't need any of this. They should be designed to work with a removable hub. If you're using an old school button I don't think that's the case.

First picture is all the pieces I used. It was basically a prototype that ended up working well, so I kept it. You would only need the stuff on the right of the picture since you have a horn button to fill the space in the center of the wheel. The springs and bearing balls go in the cylinders of the piece in the upper right. Balls make contact with the nubs in the quick release, and the wire ends are held to the square nuts in the other piece that is pressed on top. I think for you I would just integrate the nuts into the lower piece. Second picture is everything pressed together. Third picture is how the bottom of the hub looks with the piece inserted. Fourth pic is the assembled wheel(minus two screws). Do you know if your hub is the 2.0? If it is, I could just put one of the modified pieces together and mail it to you. I have extra pieces because the springs come in packs of 10 and the balls packs of 100. Actually, the hubs probably have all the same center bores, so it might work for any NRG quick release.

Ah, that makes more sense. I'd still take that tradeoff if it came at a very good price. Not sure if you mind sharing what he charged or not.

Once you wire your horn in, the steering wheel won't be removable, correct? If you're interested in keeping it removable I have some pictures and CAD files you might be interested in. We have the NRG 2.0 release in our racecar, and I 3D printed a piece to go in the wheel hub that allows us to use the horn wiring as a PTT circuit while keeping the wheel removable. It would be simple to make that work for your horn.

That paint looks nice, and it seemed to get done quickly despite it being done as fill-in work. Mind PMing me the location or a website for the shop? I'll be needing paint eventually and I'm in the LA area.

There is a "cars for sale" section that you can post it in if you're looking to sell. You need to be a donating member to post there. If you post some good pictures, build info, and a price, you'll probably get more interest than you are. It's hard for people to be interested in something they don't know much about.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Racing_Motors#BRM_H16

I think the car would look a lot better with some wheels and tires that actually fill the arches. The best thing about that option is that it still leaves the others open to you if the look still isn't what you want.

Anything ever come of this?

You have to donate to the site before you post for sale ads. It cuts down on the spam and bots.

This is a Datsun Z forum. While you might randomly get some help here, it's unlikely.

The AR-5(Solstice trans) is actually either very similar or an evolution of the R-154. Everyone seems to love that trans, so it might be a better option than the stock box anyway.

The race series uses rated HP, but it doesn't have to be a six-cylinder.

I guess I could be mistaken, but aren't these R32s? https://i.ytimg.com/vi/obp91cGrO0E/hqdefault.jpg http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/02/readers_ride_gt_gt_skysuka/ https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7214/7202592918_473e22010b.jpg https://jdymotorsport.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/sky3.jpg

If you google image search "r32 two tone" there are a few different options that come up in the results.

Do you have a price figured out yet?

Not sure if you're still looking for a bearing or not, but I think this could work for you: https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/1-1-8-four-bolt-flange-bearing-ucf206-18/

Unfortunately, yes http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/20160610/NEWS/160619999/calif-emissions-test-bill-fails-to-meet-passage-deadline

Which tab? The one that supports the nut? I hope you're not saying the transmission crossmember is supported by JB weld.

How did you end up solving the problem?

How did you end up solving the problem?

And your control arms are at a negative angle, which is not how the suspension was designed to run. Like 260DET said, getting it on and functional and having a grafted suspension that's in its proper ride height range are two very different things.