Greeko
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Everything posted by Greeko
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Sorry for the late reply. I used a Generic Lokar throttle cable and it Worked out great!
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Very cool man, I totally get it. I am going to play around a bit. I ordered the technoversion RT mount. -
I ordered the RT Mount with a new lower diff isolation mount to start. We will see if i need to go for the GM mount if my alignment is off. So you feel the rubber doesn't hold the diff firmly enough? I am trying to envision the washers on the end of sleeves.... Thanks so much for the great feedback everyone!...
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I also don't want my rubber flexing so hard and wearing out after 5000 miles... Maybe im being completely unrealistic lol
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Thanks very much for the insight. I have been going through this in my head, this will be a summer daily driver and occasional track car. I was worried the stock rubber wouldn't keep up its form with double stock power. I am not using an L6, I am using a 1JZ . I I would have to check my diff angles but I can adjust the transmission mount slightly up and down... My ultimate goal is a vehicle that handles well more for street conditions. I am rolling with a 3" exhaust with a muffler and resonance chamber. I am not HUGELY worried about noise..I just don't want the thing to Shake like hell... I don't want to go through the effort of pressing in new bushings and having a sore back every time I drive...
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Nice! I was contemplating doing this or using the GM mount and just mounting it from above without using the bottom mount. He sells a kit for this too. I wonder if it will make it super stiff though... Any reason you guys didnt go for a single mount point up top without using the bottom insulator?
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So something like this: http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html
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Did you use the stock front Diff insulator (55415-N4301) with with poly Mustache bar/bump stops? I really appreciate the feedback. the link didn't work. If you need any help with the JZ swap let me know, I have her running really well and im just across the border if you need some spare parts.
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That Makes sense, I was worried about rubber because I am running well over double the Horsepower. I did not however want to feel EVERYTHING!... I thought you cannot get the forward diff mount in anything but Rubber... Diff Insulator (55415-N4301) http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1978-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z-Rear-Differential-Mount-Insulator-OEM-NEW-/191579574506 I am curious to see what Grannyknot did for the R/T mount for the front of the differential with a poly snubber at the top and stock rubber mount at the bottom....
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Thanks so much for the responses guys! I really appreciate the feedback. There is a LOT of info from guys who heard from someone else. Nice to hear from people who actually installed the product! Good to see lots of responses from the Canadian guys!
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Similar
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hey guys, I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar.. I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks, I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy. Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedback.
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LOL, ...HORRIBLE!.. You don't put in a JZ for fuel economy. I make around 400 hp with 440cc injectors and burn 18-20 MPG
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I used a 3 row Datsun Champion radiator and it used the stock toyota Rad hoses from a 93+ supra. Works great at 12 psi! http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-280z-radiator-1975-1978
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At 600 hp, Did he have to change the R200 and axles?
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Are you sure thats venting or the fuel return?
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Id be interested in a set of rotas...
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go to a local exhaust show and they will make you one... you get fitment guarantees that way
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Searching the forums would help before posting something like this... lots of builds with numbers out there.
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In stock format I agree with you! I'm running with a 1jz/stock turbos, 3" downpipe/exhaust with a standalone end agree with you on the bottom end. Pulls like a TRUCK!The top end is slightly lacking BUT with the free flowing exhaust I found it made a big different. I am pushing 340 hp at the rear wheel at 12 PSI boost. A turbo can easily change the feel and response of a car! The stock turbos on the 1j/2j were built for low / mid range power which makes them a remarkable street engine. If you want more than 340-360 to the rear wheels then yes, upgrade turbos to single and work on the system.
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Nice to hear when a problem gets solved. Thanks for letting us know.
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That is a nice front bumper!!!..
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what wheels are those?
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cough * JZ * cough lol
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New twin Turbo BMW 6 cylinder 425 HP motors
Greeko replied to jlozinsk's topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
No it wouldn't! Have you seen the integration system required for that motor?!?!?!