datsunlover

Hard to say.. personaly, I hear 'auto' and say; "yech.. big paper weight" but someone might be looking for one.. Engine depends too.. Milage? Has it been re-built, or is it original? I dono for sure, but I'd say you could get between $100 and $1000.. depends how bad someone wants/needs it, and what they're willing to spend. I find it doesn't matter what something's 'worth' it's more about 'what someone will pay' I've seen people buy piece of crap cars for $2500, while some people get GREAT cars for $500.. Know what I mean?

I'll second that.. Seams to be a common problem with Nissans. Had an 85 200sx that would do that sometimes, and my 93 king cab started doing it to me this past winter (in the DEAD of winter one day, -35C iirc.. grrr...) Evrything would work, pump came on, had spark, heck evrything electrical worked EXCEPT the starter?!?! I jumped the starter with a screwdriver and it kicked over, so I figured it was a wiring problem. After a day or so, I got around to looking at the igniton in the colum. All I have to do is turn the key and wiggle it around a bit in the 'start' position and it'll fire. Not really a fix, but something to try..

Lots of cool work being shown here, and I agree it would be a cool project.. but I'm willing to bet for half the cost and time, you could just run triple carbs.. Now a turbo engine I can see going to the trouble of this, but if it's more the 'cool look' thing well.. triples looke even better and get 'that' sound too.. A race car is one thing, cause you want to squeeze all the power you can out.. but on a mainly street driven car, how much power are you going to actually notice above say.. stock EFI or carbs?

I think this should be moved to the electrical forum...

Cool man! I'm on the look out for an old Cresidia wagon, although they are getting pretty scarce up here (rust sucks...) I've always wanted to drop a V8 in one.. Total sleaper look.. Stock body work, lowered slightly, tinted widows, nice but not 'flashy' rims and a quiet exhast.. no one will see it coming..

That 'double' fuel line running around the valve cover is the feed and return.. looks like the return part has been cut off though. (the slightly bigger one) I ran my 280 with 72 SU's with no return for a few weeks, but had some issues and was afraid of possible fire as well.. it IS right on top of the exhast manifold...

Ahem.. Welcome to the board. Normaly, someone would say SEARCH!!! and leave it at that... but I'm not sure if the search is working properly. As far as I know, all the 280z running gear should swap into a 240z with little trouble. The EFI can be made to work, you just have to transplant the harness/sensors/ect from the 280 over to the 240 body.. There are a few minor difrences between the two cars, so there may not be a perfect 'spot' for evrything in a 240, but many have made it work.

Well their english is getting a BIT better..

Good to hear youre back up and running! As for the gas guage, I've seen that happen in a lot of vehicles. I think what happens is the sender float (suposed to bob up and down with the level of gas in ther tank) gets stuck, and won't read (its basicaly a potentiometer and wears over time) Sometimes all it takes is to add some gas to raise the level, therefore forcing the float to raise and 'break free'. Afterwards it'll work for a while, till it gets stuck again. My 280 does it all the time.

I would say it was hit in the front, then possibly spun around and taped in the rear. Judging from the t/c rod and lca (wow.. those are bent..) I would guess the wheels were turned when the impact happened, and thats what may have bent your unibody as well.. Don't feel too bad man, my 280 was in a similar state when I got it. From what I can tell, it's had a light hit in the front passenger side (nothing bent like yours, but full of bondo) and oh... probly 3 hack body jobs.. Paper thin metal, brazed and glued in all over, 1/4" of bondo all over the entire car (except the roof..) what seams to be rear quarters off a red car, rear hatch from another, AND a half finished floor pan replacement. Ahh the silly things people do to cars... and the joys of fixing their F#$% ups... Nothing like it. It's gona be a job, but don't loose hope man!

I noticed the same thing actually.. Even with the AWD cars.. There was a GT4 contest at a local video rental place a few weeks ago.. Just sign up, pick any car availible, and at the end of the day whoever had the best average lap times won 1st prize (PS2 w/GT3 and a free movie rental.. I didn't win.. ) No mater what I did, the front would plow like a front driver. I was driving a skyline..

Me to... first one works, the rest are broke..

I have the FSM for 1975 280z (I think there are a few things that were removed, or changed after 75) but its not here right now. I should get it back next wednesday with my motor so I can scan and email you som if you like.

I remember a teacher I had in grade 9 had an old VW bug.. it got turned around in it's spot evry once in a while.. Sure it would have been easy to flip over, but that would be just nasty..

I think hes saying the collector flange, where the header hooks up to the rest of the exhast system, is 2.5" diameter.

Yah.. um.. hope you are planing on swaping something stronger in there man.. those poor old u-joints are gona explode!! but wow... that exhast is the size of a sewer pipe!

Awesome work going on there man! I'm curious though.. with the engine set back 'in' what used to be the factory firewall.. what's the leg room gona be like for the driver? I'm thinking the Z is a pretty tight fit to begin with between the throttle and tranny tunnel.. or does it leave enough room to keep stock pedels? (looks to be a fairly wide engine block is all I'm thinking..)

He's got the right name for the file. ( P1010001.mov ) I havnt' watched it for a while and wouldn't you know it, now it wont play Stupid comlicators..

I know the vid you're talking about, I have it saved on my hard drive. And yes, it is a pair of idiot sticks driving very fast indeed! I'm thinking it (the post) got wiped out as it was posted in the non tech forum, and they clean up around here evry once in a while..

Look like 'Festo' (or the cheaper knock off brand 'pisco') air fittings to me.. we use them all the time for automation/tooling stuf. You can get them any size/shape you want, lots of variety.. Those look like maybe a 6 mm fitting, 90* elbow. From what my boss tells me, they are good for air, water, oil, basicaly whatever you wana do with them.. they'll handle it.

you know.... I saw an add for an 85 toyota mini van yesterday.. $350, needs brakes. I think I'll pick it up, slap on some big a$$ rims w/low pros, and paint the thing bright yellow.. It'll get the same amount of attention, comparable gas milage and it'll be paid for for probly less than one of your monthly payments! :lol:

Oh my good god.. um.. Well it's NEW anyway...

Today I set out to clean up the wiring 'mess' and get all my guages/switches back in the dash. (motor shuold be done next week, want evrything ready to go) I had red wires attached to black, electrical tape 'balls' evrywhere, splices here and there and it general was a PITA. So I jumped power to the fuse panel (booster cable) and sorted all my lights out, ran new fused lines (fuel pump switch, fog lights, stereo, ect) and hooked up the hazard light switch. I had ran last year without it, cause I was to lazy to pull evryting out to get at it.. I thought this was a good time.. Anyway, it works.. but not the way it's suposed to. If I hit the switch, nothing happens. I have to hit the hazard switch AND a left or right signal, then it comes on and flashes the lights. Confused the heck out of me for a while when I was trying to sort out witch bulb was the left/right indicator in the back of the tach (I had the hazard swith on unknowingly) as they would both flash no mater what positon the arm was in! There are two relay/flasher units under the dash, and two 2 prong conectors, but only one set of wires does anything (both flasher cans do work, I checked) so I'm at a loss.. Really, I don't care much, as I have signals and hazards, it's just a weird way of working them... Any ideas?

Iteresting, yet scarry at the same time.. I have a friend who works as a tech at the local Ford dealership. He told me about this system, and how they can use it sometimes to figure out when/why a problem happened with the ECU or other systems. Case in point, an 04' Taurus came in a few months ago with the check engine light on, not running quite right. ??? So my friend hooks up the scaner and pulls codes/memory to see whats up; Last recorded vehicle speed was 197 KPH. I guess there was something about a governer kicking in (?) , but the speed was brought back up again a few times...Either way, it put the car in a limp mode of some sort. My friend showed the customer, and the guy said; "Ahh.. that little bastard.." Turns out the guys 17 year old son had been driving the car the previous week.

My car had Yoko's on it when I bought it. (195/60/14s) The guy said they were only about a year old, but wore down really fast. I only drove the car about 2 hours on them.. felt pretty good though (was a warm spring day) but I had to replace two right away just to pass safety inspection.