datsunlover

Well if you found a suitable 240 Z (not too much rust), you could cut the t tops out of the zx and put them in the 240, take the motor trans, rearend and disks too.. Maybe even find a way to use the power window motors in the 240 (my 280 has 3 holes around the window crank; looks to me like a power window motor could be instaled there..) Just my thoughts.. Congrats on your new (to you) Z

Wow.. That's awsome! holy crap and stuf!!!

As stated, I'm going to look at a 240 tomorrow morning. The ad says 'for parts' and the owner says its 'pretty rusty... hasnt been on the road for a few years..' BUT: Aparently it has fiberglass fenders, headlight cases, air dam, ground effects, a rear 'whale tail' (yah, I just paid $150 for mine.. figures!) and it is a complete car (not picked over yet). I'm going for some small stuf like a wiper arm assy, choke cables, maybe the front bumper. I just thought some of you might be looking for some small parts (hard to find interior, switches, electrical, ignition, ??) and if I see anything ppl want, I could grab it for them. Let me know. Matt *EDIT* Um, I guess I should have put this in the annoucement's forum.. or somewhere else seeing as this is kind of a 'technical' post.. ANYway, I just got back from picking over that car, and here's the deal: It is a 1971 240z. Looks like original engine/twin SUs/4 speed all intact (I grabed the air filter housing and choke cables) and all running gear is intact. -ALL glass is good -Rear hatch looks decent and has a 3 piece fin/tail molded to the rear of car/quarter panels -Dash is NOT cracked, and apears complete (Won't fit my 280, too bad..) -fiberglass air dam (a little rough, but fixable) -fiberglass passenger fender (I grabed the drivers side) -Drivers side headlight case good, passenger side smashed on bottom edge -tail lights/marker lights are all good The owner just wants to make a few bucks on parts before he sends it to the JY this summer, and he's pretty reasonable on pricing. I asked him to hang on to the car for a few months, because I wana go back for a few things when I'm done school (end of may) and if anyone sees someting they need, I could grab it. Probly pretty cheep too. Let me know.

Well, I got the CRX seats in. The passenger side sits a bit higher than stock (like 1.5" or so) And the drivers side is about the same hight as the stock seat was. (maybe .5" higher) But thats because I cut down the stock brackets on the floor. (They had been messed up already my the PO/shop that did the floors) I like the feel and look.. and there is enough room for my head/legs/arms/ect. Getting in and out is a slight task, but not too bad. I'll deal with it. I'll try to get some pics this week, to show how I made my brackets.

Wow... very creapy seing all those pictures of... empty space and roads... Frightening really...

Well, I might take you up on that offer.. I have the FSM for my car, but seeing as it's for a 75 it says nothing about carbs. I think I'll get it together, but it'll be a little while before I can get to it. This stupid winter thing won't get lost, so I'm in 'hurry up and wait' mode for a little while. ANd Im off to school in two weeks for april and may, so time on the Z will be limited for the next little while Oh well. I'll get back from school, and it'll be summer. Then I can throw all these parts on (that I've been hiding away..) and DRIVE the stinkin thing!

I got a ZX window out of a JY car once. Cut into the molding/glue with a knife, then find a hood release cable nearby, (junk yard.. turn around, pull cable out of chev truck behind me..) feed it through, then grab it from inside and out with vise grips. Just worked it back and forth like a saw, all the way around the window. Helps if it;s a warm sunny day, all the glue/rubber is more plyable.

HA! I WISH I had that much metal left when I did mine! I did pretty much what you did, but I just built my own patch panels, and they don't look as nice.. But thats why there's fiberglass filler! Lookin good man. Keep it up!

Man.. must be nice to still HAVE those pots behind the headlights.. Mine have gone back to nature. Seriously, there was NOTHING left of the drivers side, and the passenger side was useless (rusted thin, full of holes) I ended up using some pots from an old truck to put my lights back it. I like the lights man, and as for the air dam, I know what you are goping through. Mine is all messed up too, plus I'v got lots of rust on the headlight buckets and nothing is stright anymore. Just have to twist/flex/kick it a bit!

Q: How many punks does it take to screw in a light bulb? A: 10. One to change the light bulb, and 9 to smash the heck out of the house! Q: why did the guy cross the road? A: He heard that the chicken was easy. Q: Where did the name Datsun come from? A: Germany; Some Nissan execs were talking to some German car manufacturers and said "We need a good name for our cars, so the Americans will buy them... but we need to come up with something by tomorrow." The Germans said "Oh... Dat soon?"

Thanks for the link to the pics man.. that helps me out, but Im still a little confused on the vacum line routing...What's that big line coming out of the middle of the intakes and going under them? If you could post a vacum diagram that would be great. Thanks

Hey, cool man! Seems like more and more ppl I see on here are from Ontario.. Good stuff! Just wondering.. is your setup factory/stock, or something you retrofited on? (in my case I'm converting a 75 FI to 72 carbs) Thanks.

Yah, that's what I'm planing to do. And it won't cost hardly anything seeing as I have a welder now, and can get material cheep at work! Kinda freaked me out to when I pulled the stock seat out and saw the awfull condition of my seat support I'd have to do something about it anyway, so might as well do some mod's while Im in there right? I'll try to take some pics as I go along... maybe make a little "how to" post when I'm done to help others out..

Ok, sorry for being ignorant... I just don't know alot about carbs. I'm trying to figure out how to hook up the fuel lines to my twin SU's; Obviously the line coming from the pump goes to the outer-most inlet on the bowl. What do I do about the other inlet/outlet beside it?!? It's just a straight through line into the float bowl.. I was thinking I should run these back to the tank via the return line, but a friend of mine says NO they are just a vent and I should run a line out of the engine bay and just dump under the car somewhere.. if I return them to the tank, the tank could presurize back through the line and cause problems. What's the deal here? Can someone enlighten me?

Yah, Im about 6' 3" and when I mocked up the drivers seat I rubed the top of my head on the roof. I also have some issues getting my leg past the wheel when I get in. I think part of the problem is my stock seat mounts; The floors have been re-done (previous owner took it to a HACK garage... grrrrrr...) and when they put the factory brackets back it, they buggered it up good. They don't line up, sit square, or anything. AND they are up too high as far as I'm concerned. So Im thinking I'll have to cut them out totaly, make them shorter and then build adaptors like you did to bolt the CRX seat to my sliders. As for clearance, it looks like it'll be really tight across the lower side of the seat area.. tunnel and inside rocker I mean.. I'll have to see what I can do..

Ok, I tried a search but go nothing.. anyone put 88-91 CRX Si seats in their Z? They are the black/grey 'Recaro' bucket style, but DONT have the silly 'crx' embroidered in the seat back. And they are OH so comfortable! really holds you in compared to the *ahem* stock seats... One has a small rip on it, but I figured $25 for the PAIR was a good deal so I grabbed them! Anyway, I mocked one up in the Z and they are pretty wide.. Im gona have to use the passenger seat on the drivers side (and vice versa..) because the seat back adjustment handle would interfere with the seat belt. Im also thinking I'll have to re-locate the sliders more towards the inside of the seat (they're too wide right now; one hits the trans tunnel!) but was curious if anyone else has used these seats? If so, what did you do? Either way, these are going in. I will make someting work, cause I really like these seats! So... anyone?

Yah dude... thats cool. Im gona copy cat it though! I like the 'evil' red look... and it'd be nice to get rid of the u-haul marker lights too!

Hmm.. check the C/V shafts and joints.. maybe a cracked/riped boot or something... or maybe the rear brakes are grabbing a bit? Dono man.. I'd say jack the thing up, take the tire off and give evrything (brakes, suspension, cv shafts, ecs) a good looking over for signs of damage/problems.

Bad ground on the battry cable where it attaches to the post, or the body of the car. Could also be a starter problem (loose wire, bad internal conection) Check ALL the wires that go to the starter and battry, and make sure the comections are good.

I would go for the 73 that's built/set up for racing. It'll be tough enough to stand up to the pounding of a V8. You shouldn't have frame twisting/flex issues, and you can build it the way you want from the ground up. Plus, you've got a 71 there with all tyhe stock pieces you'd need to put a car together.. As for going and buying a 'hopefully' solid car to swap a V8 in... your probly looking at more money/time in the long run. Figure you'll have to remove an engine/trans before you can put in a V8... then fix any other problems with the car (rust, brakes, electrical, ect) and most likely weld in a frame.

Well, if THATs the only thing.. Megasqurt would take care of th FI wouldn't it?

For sure the auto shade is the way to go. I spent all last summer and this past winter welding up my car with a flip down, and it sucks. I statred using my boss's auto shade a few months ago and WOW what a difference! So easy on the eyes! Only thing to watch for is some times (like my boss's) they will not switch shades. Something about using solar energy to charge them... if you set it down on a table on the face/shade, the next time you use it it will not switch and you get that 'not so nice' flash in your eyes.

Dude.... I'm not gona get into a flame war with you over this, I was just trying to help someone out. (You know.. the guy who SATARTED this post?) And you think you know it all, and I think I know.. whatever man. I'm not doing this crap. ISKone, sorry about your thread getting hijacked here!

Well, I wouldn't say the floor is a big of a structural member as the rockers and trany tunnel. Yes Datsun put 'frame rails' of a sort... but they were very thin and would really only prevent the floor pan from flexing along the long flat areas. Try jacking up a Z on the factory 'rails'. I just suggested pop rivets and patch panels because it's cheap, and if the tunel/rockers are ok, the car will still hold up fairly well structurally.

Yah, thats the most annoing part of it all; when you get loged out, you loose the 'new posts' markers. Get's tiresome.. But I discovered something tonite.. I dont know if it's because the problem is fixed, or I just found a way to fool the system. If I log in, and then open a second window (just leave it idle on the forum index page), I don't get booted after I post a reply to a topic. Can anyone confirm this as a solution/temp. fix?