Warren

They should be available from almost any auto parts store...no need to go through MSA and pay triple.

Congrats Wayne. Better too rich, than too lean, ANY day. It's now "tweak time".

#3 would be great if the logo was centered and the corny racing flags left off as they are. The detail of the cars being highlighted is a big plus. But that's just MY opinion. (Even though I voted for #1, the above would make my vote #3).

Not meant in mean spirit, racially, ethnically or any other derogatory way, but more period correct. The caption could read: "I'z juz gunna wash it up real purdy fer ya dare, Boss." <----- (Oh Great, check out this post #....(how did THAT happen?)

Glad it worked out for you.

Go to the album they're stored in, click on the photo, select "EDIT" down at the bottom...then delete it on the next page (near the bottom).

Wayne, you're not alone in that department. Perhaps this year I'll actually get the white POS trailer queen that I built down the track too. Who knows, maybe we can line up together, not that I'd stand a chance against that beast you built, but it would be neat to see, fun to do, and quite an accomplishment for both of us. I'm still tuning mine too. Really looking forward to seeing everybody again.

Yasin, They're available. Clicky The machine shop that I used to deal with could get a crank kit (crank and bearings) for almost anything, but they got bought out by some woman who nobody wanted to work for and closed up. What a shame too, because those guys did phenominal work. I just thought someone on here would know a good place that they've had success with. The nearest one I can find on the net is in UTAH, of all places...quite a ways from Atlanta. It being Easter weekend, all of the machine shops around here are closed, but come Monday, I'll be searching locally. I'd rather NOT just get another used engine and put it in as the car is going to be driven by my daughter and I've been down that road before, with very poor results. Those cars are usually in the junk yard for a reason. My luck has been that they were there because of engine issues. I don't want to replace junk with junk. I bought the car cheap, with a leaking distributor, that was an easy fix, $70 for another distributor from a junkyard (they're not rebuildable). It's been driven for about 1000 miles since then and now this. I knew I'd be going through the motor eventually, but wasn't expecting it to be so quickly. Turns out, it's SUPER nasty inside, in need of a complete rebuild anyway and it's completely apart right now. The block and head will be tanked this week. Everything else seems to be in order with it. Me, in my 20's? That seems like it was ages ago, because it was. But I still "Feel" like I'm in my 20's. I'll be 48 on Sept 11th. My daughter will be 19 on August 22nd. ***EDIT*** Just did some more searching: UPDATE: Found it locally, at a place that I didn't think would have anything remotely close to resembling what I was looking for. They usually don't. (Never even thought of them for it)... Oreilly I'll be ordering today.

Can anybody recommend where to get a decently priced crank kit for a 7MGE. My daughter's 91 Cressida ate the #2 rod bearing. I "may" need a rod also. Engine is totally disassembled right now, all over my garage, and I REALLY need to get this thing back on the road (kid in college and no transportation until Dear Old Dad fixes it for her).

That Arkansas crop finally matured, huh?

Post #7 in this thread is mine... SIMPLE!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125443&highlight=A-Pillar Too easy to do.

So you and Phil gonna head up the pack from TX to the DNI Shootout in May? Would be nice to have ya'll...

No, but Grundy does.

For the 8 billionth time, polarity doesn't matter on injector connectors, however, you're right, the ground is switched on and off by the ECU. Insulation size differences on these connectors doesn't really matter either. I'd be more concerned about whether or not the connectors are sealed at the top (meaning having rubber boots on the wire part) and make sure to use dielectric grease when you install them to keep moisture out of the connections, thus preventing the copper/brass/whatever contacts from corroding so horridly as they will eventually if they're left unprotected.

It's merely a play on words referring to "Rasterizing" a graphic or photo where the computer does calculations to connect like pixels when drawing or printing out graphics in larger formats (in layman's terms).

I rasterbated/posterized the wiring diagram from the factory service manual and put it on the inside of my garage door while I was rebuilding my car. Came in REAL handy. No sense in not doing something productive with the technology. (hint hint)

Vanity plates here are $25 a year. (old picture, it's been re-newed since)

One other point to note on the plugged PCV airway on the block (if I may)... Remember, on a boosted, i.e. turbo motor, whenever the vacuum in the intake manifold is goes positive, i.e, changed to boost for forced induction, the PCV valve is closed, hence effectively plugging the hole that he has plugged. This fact alone should be a clue as to whether or not there were other ways for air to vent from the crankcase. It's quite doubtful that a boosted motor would survive very long if it had no other oil and air passage from the valve cover to the oil pan.

Go to a sign shop or sign supply shop and ask if you can buy some "Rapid Remover"... we use it to remove vinyl graphic glue from paint with little or no effort whatsoever. Spray it on, let it sit about 3-5 minutes, gently use a squeegie to loosen the glue and wipe it off with a paper towel. NOTHING works like this stuff and it won't hurt the paint. Rapid Remover Website

WAY TO GO WAYNE!!! with 78 days till the DNI Shootout too... Maybe this time you'll be able to get some sleep before the event...

Depends on what it is...but $25 a foot DOES seem high. PM me with what you'd like done, we'll discuss it there.

I can do it in Vinyl for you, then you could remove it when you wanted to. PM me if you're interested in it.

Obviously not fast enough...he got caught, didn't he?

True, but they're usually local, available without shipping and can be had when needed instead of having to wait.

Check with any driveshaft shop, they're usually under $30 from them... JTR is just like MSA...a middle man...expect markup when you buy from them.