Warren

While you have the pan down, go to a tranny shop and get a few of the tranny pan magnets. Set them in the bottom of the pan and they'll help catch magnetic crap from the oil. Of course, you'll end up having to drop the pan again to clean them every 100,000 or so miles, but it's worth the effort just to keep crap in the oil from floating around and/or clogging the filter. Unless you have an aluminum pan/sump, they'll stay stuck to the bottom of the pan and do their job. Alot of people say just use a magnetic drain plug, but they don't think about what happens when you pull that magnetic oil plug out...it usually deposits steel fragments in the threads of the pan itself...not what I'd want to put a threaded plug back into. Just a suggestion and your mileage may vary.

Don't we already have a timeslip database? http://forums.hybridz.org/timeslips.php?

Man, the chilling memories for me that you just brought back in this thread. I remember when mine did the same thing after a complete rebuild. Scared the livin bejezis out of me...just KNEW that something major was wrong. All it turned out to be was fuel fouled plugs in mine too. New set of plugs, and VROOM... Took a second look at the pictures and noticed the distributor cap on the shock tower with the hose going under it and said "WTF?" Good job on getting it going, now put all of those wires and hoses where they're supposed to be (HA, like you weren't planning on doing that). I'm still trying to find good ways to hide some of the crap in my engine bay...it seems to take forever, but that's only because I'm never satisfied. Warren

Real nice guy, buys 7 of 'em for $60something and wants $500 for them...what an assclown. I vote BAN! Edit: Meant to say "$500 for 5 of them"...my bad.

For those of you who are interested. Check out this site. It currently has 5 TV stations (streaming) at one time with the coverage. (Turn the volumes down on the ones you're not watching...they'll all be ON when you get to the page). http://www.maroonspoon.com/wx/gustav.html Also, DirecTV customers can watch WDSU TV (Channel 6 in New Orleans) live on channel 361.

That's one of the reasons I recommended the LM1 setup. Datalogging is built in and no laptop is "required" while it's logging. The LM2 is now available and has alot more features, like the built in auxbox features, but it's kinda pricey too.

LM1 and RPM converter, or LM1 and Auxbox will do you wonderfully. That DB gauge is EXPENSIVE. Just my opinion.

NO real need to, it's just a waste of $25 or whatever...but it's your money.

Mine is just spinning there, with NO ill effect...just leave it alone...you'll be fine.

FWIW, a Ford "Continuous Duty" starter solenoid would do the exact same thing as that $75 kit and it costs less than $30.

Looks GREAT Jeff...a far cry from it's former self. Warren

Actually, if you're referring to the black strip that runs along the outside edge and is about 2" wide by the length of the T-Top, it's not plastic. It's aluminum. The bubbles are from oxidation. If you use a razor blade (or similar object) you can remove the black paint from it, then use a roloc disk on a air die grinder and remove the corrosion (it'll look like white crap). Smooth out or fill any imperfections (use JB Weld to fill), sand smooth, and repaint them with ordinary Duplicolor gloss black paint. They'll come out looking new. Don't ask me how I know.

Sure, PM Sent. Thanks, Warren

No biggie, really... Thanks though, for responding. Warren

VH1? Very Homeless 1? They're really digging deep now...what a pointless piece of crap that was. Total waste of bandwidth, but that's just MY opinion.

The knobs are supposed to control fresh air vents for the footwells...the cable looks like the speedometer cable, and the gap is just a poor repair job. Don't fret. None of those will kill you.

Nice run...Congrats!

Thanks Davy, your'e right...I almost broke my own arm patting myself on the back for getting it down the track 8 times without "HAVING" to open the hood. Tried to do it right, and so far, it looks like I did. Realization of the dream is just around the corner...hehehe Practice trees are fun, but in real life, when you're on the track, staging the car, your heart starts beating faster, the adreneline starts flowing, you hope everything works and your reaction times suffer. Seat time does help and getting in a routine of what to do when starts making it easier, but just starting out, trust me, you'll be nervous too.

No need to make this a pissin match guys...Settle down. The way the original post was worded, one could assume that I was referring to the same run, and the correlation between RT & ET could have been misconstrued. I editied that just now to read (on yet another run). You're both right, and either way, all of the numbers mentioned came from 8 different runs. Remember FUN!!! and what Momma used to say... "If you can't say something nice..."

Yeah, the 0.096 RT and the lower ET were on 2 different runs anyway...and I AM aware that they're not related to each other. Just thought I'd point out the improvements...and forgot to mention that I finally had a less than 2.0 sixty foot (1.915 to be exact)... Between taking it somewhat easy on the car by keeping the boost down, learning to launch it, doing trial and error things, basically checking everything out, I'm having fun with my car and keeping the hood closed, so don't be so quick to try and come rain on my parade...it's all in fun anyway.

There were only like 40 cars at the track...and the track was hooking up GREAT. No slippin & slidin all over the place, and yes this was Silver Dollar. I made 8 passes, cut a 0.096 light on one of them (a true FLUKE, trust me). Bettered my low ET by 29 thousands on yet another run. Car ran consistant as possible. Unfortunately, for some reason, I couldn't get the laptop to connect to the datalogger to retrieve any data (serial port issue on the laptop), so I couldn't do any real tuning. Howver, I did manage to remember to hit the record button 7 of 8 times . Nonetheless, with some decent tuning and a wastegate spring change, I'm more than sure the car has low 12's, maybe high 11's in it. (Keep in mind guys, I'm doing shakedown stuff right now, as the car only has 200 miles on it since it's completion. Better safe than sorry, hence the 2.5 lb wastegate spring - changing to 12 lbs now that I know everything is working and appears to be holding together). Now to go get all the black rubber off of my white car... gotta love those "battle scars"..hehehe

Still have it? Wanna dispose of it properly? I'll take it as a spare...I also have another use for it...but I'm not saying what it is, yet. Let me know. Warren

I recently had a situation where it would have come in handy to have been left on the motor. It was about 96 degrees outside and I had been running the car kinda hard, staying in boost alot during some spirited running around town. I parked the car to visit a friend of mine for a few minutes, came back out to the car and it was VERY hard to start...Felt the fuel rail and it was warm enough that you didn't want to hold on to it. I put a small fan blowing air over the motor, pointed at the fuel rail. As soon as the fuel rail cooled enough to hold on to without being in pain, the motor fired right up and ran perfectly. So, in actuallity, it might be ill-advised to remove it entirely, However, most people think it's some sort of hair dryer or something and pull it off. It really does serve a purpose if left alone. Needless to say, I'm contemplating re-installing it and forgetting about the "looks"... As always, your mileage may vary.

It's an injector/fuel rail cooling device that is only supposed to come on AFTER the engine is turned off. It has a timer, located under the right side of the dash (I believe, don't remember exactly), that keeps it running for 16 minutes, but it'll only come on if the engine reaches a certain temperature. It does NOT function while the engine is running and most people remove it entirely, however, it's real purpose is to avoid vapor lock in the injectors and fuel rail after you turn the engine off and it heat-soaks. Sometimes, in warm climates, the fuel can boil in the rail and injectors after it's been run, causing a hard-start situation when trying to restart the motor before it's had time to cool. Refer to EFEC-77 of the 82 FSM for more information.

Guys, Let me first say Thanks, sincerely, for all of your condolences, well wishes and prayers. Hearing from the overwhelming number of you that have replied has helped very much in starting the healing process. I've passed along all of your replies to the family and we all wish to let you know how much it means to us that you'd take the time to include us in your prayers and briefly mourn with us. We laid Lane's body to rest this afternoon during a beautiful ceremony with the knowledge that he's in a better place than us and we all look forward to him meeting us beyond the pearly gates when our time comes to rejoin him. It's been a very somber and sobering experience for all of us. Your standing by us in out time of grief and sorrow has deeply touched us all. Again, Thank You, and May God Bless You All. Warren