Warren

In your "future upgrades"... - SDS EM-4 6F 1700.00 (check sdsefi.com for price increases) - 2 Bar MAP 80.00 (3 Bar one should come with the SDS) - TPS 90.00 (Should be on the 240SX 60mm Throttle Body already) - Fuel Pump relay 30.00 (Use the stock one, it works fine) - 60mm TB 50.00 (Junkyards have these a dime a dozen...Thanks Dorifto Ricer Boys) - Taylor 10.4mm plug wires 130.00 (NOT recommended for use with SDS, See their tech page) - Fuel Injectors 200.00 (estimate - haven't decided) (Gonna cost more for NEW ones) - Fuel 120.00 (Shouldn't be included in build cost, but ok) - T3/T4 turbo (ebay) 200.00 (Good luck with that) - Harmonic damper 90.00 (Nothing wrong with the Stock one, ask me how I know) - Aluminum radiator 460.00 (Chevy type from Summit, $250 tops) - Electric fan 150.00 (Taurus 2 Speed from junkyard ($25)) - Fan relay 30.00 ($15 at NAPA all day long) - Centerforce II clutch 295.00 (If you really want it) - Oil cooler 200.00 (Should have come with the "Complete" L28ET) There, I just saved you a BUNCH of money...At least enough for a decent Boost Controller and a gauge or two. (Just suggestions, not criticisms)

Not familiar with those types...can't help ya there...sorry. Warren

First off, it's a BAD idea to even consider using a line lock as a parking brake, assuming you're referring to an "electrically" controlled line lock, as used in drag cars for doing burnouts, launching, etc... The reason for this is simple. They require 12 volts to activate and if left on, they'll eventually drain the battery and release, therefore becoming nothing more than useless hardware. Secondly, the way they're used is by pumping the brakes, pressing and holding the button and releasing the pedal, thus locking the pressure to that particular set of brakes. They're not meant to be used continuously, as a parking brake, for the reason stated above. Hope that sheds some light.

Doesn't matter...polarity is not an issue with injectors.

Rick likes to downplay his role by saying he took a step back etc. etc... But we all know he's really HybridZ's ONLY Real "Rocket Scientist"...

WRONG! (from the User CP Signature Picture section)... The maximum size of your custom image is 500 by 100 pixels or 19.5 KB (whichever is smaller). It's kinda what keeps this board clean and different from most. Most of us try to abide by that rule. Not bitchin, just pointing it out...

Upping the boost being cheaper is debatable, and wasn't part of the original question asked. Too many factors contribute to actual costs of each, i.e. originally a turbo car with ECU, oil pan, etc..., how much work you plan on doing yourself, and parts availability (to note a few). While it's true that standalones can provide more power by allowing more precise tuning, increasing displacement affects compression ratio, which in turn will allow you to increase boost (slightly) while decreasing the risk of detonation. Neither option is in-expensive, and personal preference comes in to play as well as the condition of the motor to begin with, i.e. does it need to be bored, etc... (Not to mention the "while I'm at it" bug)... To answer the original questions more accurately, there is little difference between the 280Z and 280ZX engines, in stock form as they came from the factory. Therefore, it's generally understood that stroking can be sucessfully done to either powertrain and that induction method is not really a concern when considering stoking, as either method of induction (N/A or FI) will work with a stroker engine. (I'm taking into account the original poster's post count, and the fact that this information may not have been known by him.)

HUH? What ? ? ? Potential what? [Rant on] I'm not being argumentive here, just trying to figure out why all these statements are being made and the reasoning behind them. It's awfully vague to make statements without justifying or qualifying them. That's how alot of crap gets put on the board. It used to be (around here) that if you haven't done it, you have NO experience at it, therefore, you ask and learn from those who DO have experience. Here of late, alot is being theorized by the INexperienced without explaining how and/or why. (I'm not knocking or pointing at anybody in particular, just stating what seems to be happening). This is leading to TONS of superfluous posts that become more misleading than informative. I mean, it's all fine and well to discuss something, especially when valuable information is exchanged, but to put out vague statements is just confusing the issue at hand more than it's explaining anything or helping the person asking the question. Sorry for the rant here, but it's beginning to get downright ridiculous. [Rant Off]

Sure it can be done. I'd like to hear their detailed reasoning too. I stoked my turbo (F54/P90) with NO ill effects...of course, I didn't go hog wild on it by going to 89mm... I only went to 87mm...same process without making the walls too thin.

Happy Birfday Rick!

106? Holy smokes, you ARE old... Happy Birthday Ron! Warren

Not much though..hehehe

Here ya go, they're doing it for Ike too. Just like Gustav, the audio will be on for all of the stations when you bring the page up. Turn down the audio for those that you don't want to watch. You can also double click on a feed for full screen mode. http://www.maroonspoon.com/wx/ike.html Hope this is helping someone, somehow. Warren

I can only hope so, and then some.

What do you guys think? I think I'm glad I don't live in Arlington!!!

"OLD" Who me? You've obvisouly got me mistaken for ScottieGNZ or Wayne...

Below is the entire section on batteries from the 2008 NHRA rule book (General Regulations Section). 8:1 BATTERIES All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be relocated in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-acceppted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minumum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch-diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence. ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements. I think it's all gonna come down to "their (the tech inspector's) determination" as to it's safety and how securely the battery itself is mounted. From what I've seen, which admittedly isn't much, for the "Sportsman" classes, most track officials don't go by the rules as stricly as they're written, although they probably should in most cases. Unless you're competing in a "series" race, with contingency sponsorship or purse money on the line, or on a professional level, I don't think they'd complain too much as long as it's not bungee corded in or held in with plastic straps. That's only "my" opinion, and your mileage may vary. edit: Oh and Evan, join the NHRA to get a rulebook!!! HAHAHAHHAHAHAHA

Thanks Paul, been a good one so far.

Happy Birthday Joel!!!

No it was a poke at him for not showing his car...(kind of a personal joke between friends), he'll get it.

Kinda funny that someone who hasn't shown theirs yet asks that question... WTF?

Warren Discon, Marietta, GA, 82 ZXT

I've put one in my 82 and besides being a little bit oversized (only at the sides that tuck under the door opening trim at the bottom, which is a good thing) it fits nicely. They are cut pile and match pretty well. Be prepared to make a few slices/holes where necessary for the shifter, e-brake and seat bolts. All in all, pretty easy and the placement of the driver's foot pads are dead on. There are no snaps for the E-brake cover or holes for the rear storage compartment handles, but those are easily made. They'll shed fibers for a short time, but a shopvac takes care of that. Pretty well satisfied with mine. Your mileage may vary. Warren

For those particles that get picked up and go through the oil pump, yes, but there are those that don't make it past the screen on the pickup that would stick to the pan magnets. Besides, it's better to trap them on a magnet BEFORE they go through the oil pump.

You DO realize that you can't have all of those seams in there, right? Not being ridiculous, but the tubes have to be mandrel bent, not welded L's & straight tubes. (Just stating the obvious, so nobody tries to do it with welded seams).