Warren

Sorry to hear about this Dale, but let me know if you're gonna go through it yourself. I'd like to take a peek at it's guts. I built my 2004R myself and would like to do a little comparing. If yoiu need some help getting it out and back in, lemme know. I also have ready access to some of the specialty tools if it's anything like the 2004R. Even have the jack you might need. Warren

Might also notice that it's Serial #1 of the series... Not that it means much, but IMHO it's a keeper for sure.

My late father, Bob Discon, played piano in the Sazerac (see story linked to HERE) for many years and also tuned the piano in the Blue Room almost every night for all of the big acts that played there. If you click on the picture in the article, you can see part of his piano sticking out into the lobby. He'd be glad to know that they've reopened the hotel. Unfortunately, he passed away 3 years ago, during the renovations. The article brings back many fond memories of my childhood...sorry for being a sentimentalist, just though some of the older folks on here might like to know that the Roosevelt is back in business. It's always been one of the nicer places to go while visiting the French Quarter in New Orleans.

Let's hope so!... Come on Dale, get with the program here. :)

Mine, with full clearance for the slots. Also, Yasin, Did you use the T3 needle bearings under yours? Using the stock spring tophats & bearings, they're not needed (the stock bearings work just fine).

This report says he died. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20090625/en_nm/us_jackson

The code 4647 is only part of it. Preceed that with an "M" and it would be correct. It should also NOT be on the ignition lock, so don't bother pulling it. It WOULD be on the passenger door lock though. Code M4647 was used from 1970-1982 for Nissan/Datsun 6 cut keys. 4647 (by itself) represents a key code for Nissan/Datsun 8 cut locks from 82 forward. Nissan stopped putting key code tags on glovebox doors in 1986. Hope that helps. Warren

I've always heard that drinking a 6 pack of Heineken beer does the trick...not only to increase urine production and help pass it, but supposedly there is something in Heineken that helps break up the stone(s) and makes them more easily passed. Never experienced them myself, but a couple of buddies have and heeded that advice with successful outcomes (pardon the pun). I don't know if it really helps break down the stone(s), but after a 6 pack, you shouldn't really care anyway.

PM Sent

Tommy Goza right there in Acworth on 92 can do it, but I wouldn't let him work on a lawnmower...That's just me though. Take the head down to Chix Machine Shop down on Pat Mell Roat at South Cobb Drive in Smyrna. If you need more help, gimme a call... 770-919-1699. One more thing, before you get ready to put it all back together, order a manifold stud kit from Pallnet down in Slidell, LA... http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet . It may take a few days to get the kit, but it's well worth it. Also, you'll want to clearance the slots at the first and last studs...by clearancing them, I mean take a hand file and file away some of the material (nearest the center of the manifold)... as these two slots (instead of holes) tend to move outward when the manifold heats up after being torqued down....consequently touching and pushing outward on these two studs...try to remove them and well, you know the consequences already. Any questions, I'm local...call me at the number above if I can help. Warren

Aw, come on guys, he's just trying to correct the torque steer on that front wheel drive car...

So you get it runnng yet?

That car is just TOO clean...and the finishing touches on the interior will just make it look even better... GREAT JOB, as always. 4 thumbs up

Wasn't trying to imply anything, just trying to clarify the proper places for the two types of fasteners. There was only 1 diameter half turn fastener. I didn't realize you had the nutplates already as they didn't show in your pictures when I first read the post. I had a similar situation with the strap locations on my new carpet too...no slots. I chose to leave them out completely. Haven't suffered any major setbacks from that decision, but I do keep the T-Tops in their storage bags as protection when they're not on the roof. They do slide around a bit, but not to the point where they're crashing into anything. I've seen SEM products at Advance Auto Parts before, you might check there for a better price without shipping...keeping in mind that Advance is part of the PartsAmerica group, meaning they're also Checker Shucks Kragen and a couple of other retail store names. My interior is black & silver, so there was really no big deal in color matching for me.

As far as the 2 different types of fasteners are concerned, you have both of them that you need... easy to figure out which goes where as the diameters and types of the screw threads themselves are different too. The FAT ones go on the outsides...(corners of panels) and truly screw in, the THIN ones go in the center of the rear panel only and only turn 90 degrees to lock into position once inserted. Hope that helps. BTW, GREAT WORK!!!

Make sure it is dual axle. AND has brakes...nothing worse than a trailer without brakes. I have a 16' and my ZX fits nicely, BUT, tiedown points are about a pain in the arse... without having hooks closer to the axles in the rear (meaning more forward than the rear of the body), and the car being so low in the front (hard to get to anything behind the front of the fiberglass body kit), it makes it difficult to tie down. If I had it to do all over again, I'd go 18'-20' or weld some loops on the front and rear crossmembers to hook the ratchet straps to. I currently use axle straps through the wheels, not tying the body down and compressing the shocks, but even that is a pain. The welded ring on the crossmembers will be happening SOON!

Looks Great Dale!!!...good call.

Inside diameter 2.25"...go from there. Here's a post about the ones I made and have no more of. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128111

Glenn, His username is RSICARD, not RISCARD...he's in Tucson, AZ. Can't help with the PM notification error, but you might PM him "RSICARD" and see if he really sent you a PM. He might have had it deleted before you were able to read it. Just a thought. And don't be such a stranger...my phone still rings. Warren

The ZX "Sensor" light does NOTHING with relation to whether or not the O2 Sensor is good or bad. It was used as a reminder to bring the car in to be serviced at 30,000 miles. Disconnect the green/yellow lead under the glove box. It will go off. Leave it disconnected. This is per the Factory Service Manual. There have been numerous posts made about this circuit.

B = Battery S = Starter A = Accessory IG = Ignition R = Relay Female Plug? Yes, usually blue or white in color. It should be there right next to the switch as it's incorporated into a LARGE wiring harness that runs through the dashboard. (Sorry, no pic availabel at the moment.) Perhaps a Factory Service Manual would help your more than any forum could. I'd suggest downloading it from here as soon as you can. (If it says "TNA" next to the 77 280Z model, it simply means "Temporarily Not Available", click on the "TNA" and check back at the top of the hour. It should become available as your request for it should be filled at that time.)

Just for the record, and NOT to be contrary, but I left mine long, unsupported and it has NO ill effect on anything. I'd think that NOT modifying it or making it shorter would retain any balance or weight distribution it might already have. Cutting it on any type of an angle is just asking for trouble, i.e. wobble. So if you DO cut it, make sure it's cut at a 90 degree angle to it's axis. As stated before, the jury is still out on it, but I chose to leave mine long and it hasn't hurt anything at all. Your mileage may vary.

And you guys thought that S30's & S130's squatted... Obviously they're not the only one that do. Check this out.

They're Repco 86mm Cast pistons (not hypereutectic coated or anything) with new rings & pins for an N/A engine. No problem with the wait, hell, they've been sitting on the shelf in the box now for over 4 years. Still brand new, nice and dry and shiny...just like the day they were boxed up.

I have a whole set, brand new, 86mm (stock) with wrist pins and rings, for an L28 that I'll sell you... $150 plus shipping.