Warren

It's not MARCH yet Mike...hahaha

USDM has battery on the other side Tony. No exhaust near it. Pretty sure he was referring to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifolds and the smaller one near the brake booster, which is also on the other side over here. Had to suck having a battery melt in the engine compartment though. I'd HATE to have to clean up that mess.

"normalcy"...now there's a word for ya... Didn't we used to say "normalality" or just plain old "normal"? Kinda reminds me of the word "preventative" instead of "preventive"... never got that change notice either. Not saying that either is correct or incorrect, just noticing that more and more syllables are being added to common words in the last 30 years or so.

Hooray, Google Ads went away, and so did the problem. Doc was right!

Nope, still doing it. I tried everything I knew of yesterday, including logging off and back on, clearing temporary internet files, etc...it went away and came right back. I'll deal with it for the next few days, until the new software gets loaded.

You're not the only one this is happening to. It's been doing that to me for the past 3 days now. Attribute it to software issues and be patient. New software arrives on the 21st or so (when the board will be down for a while that day). No sense in spending 2 days fixing something that'll be disappearing automatically in a couple of days.

Guys, the question was: "How do I remove the window from the hatch without cutting the rubber seal? " And the obvious answer is: Use a BFH. HAHAHAHAHAH, sorry, couldn't resist.

Offset Explanation Their site also has other explanations regarding tire sizing, click on "Info Center" for other items. HIH.

An LT1 Swap in a year... that's almost a new record here at Hybrid(sit in the garage and collect dust)Z. Congrats...and you even managed to drive it, race it and continue making modifications since. That's an accomplishment in itself. Congrats!

Damn Wayne, you getting serious about this, huh? Looks GREAT...and I know you'll get it dialed in soon enough. Really looking forward to seeing the beast at the DNI Shootout again...this time, PRE-tuned..hehehe Warren

Does anybody realize that the correction procedure for this issue "still", after "5 years", hasn't been posted or even discussed other than a comment about it being installed on the starter circuit instead of the ignition circuit. If someone knows the correct fix for this issue, it should be posted, even if the original post was borderline slanderous. The documentation provided with some of these "JDM" products DOES, in fact lose something in the translation, even if they are printed in "Engrish" also! There are alot of these that have been sold, and purchased in good faith and people are living with the starter engagement bump issue unnecessarily if we know the fix. Perhaps someone should do a write-up of the harness or installation error and the correct method they should use instead of bitching about someone bringing up a problem that has been solved long ago. That might eliminate the need for new people asking questions about and bringing back to life 5 year old posts. That would be in the true spirit of HybridZ, would it not? Just a suggestion, since there are literally thousands of these types of posts on here.

According to the diagram above there should only be 4 wires on that relay socket...a Black, a Blue, a LtGreen/Red, and a Yellow/Red. If there are 2 blue ones, they should be on the same terminal and would make that a junction where one blue goes to the alternator and the other one goes to the wiring harness connector that feeds the interior harness for the charge indicator lamp. Do both blue wires hook to the same terminal of the relay block? OK, let's go back to the problem. If the battery is NOT getting charged by the alternator, the charge indicator SHOULD be on...indicating either a bad alternator, a bad fusible link, a bad Ignition relay or a bad wire from the fusible link to the battery. Refer to the FSM on pages EL-18 (non-turbo) or EL-19 (turbo) for the charging circuit diagram. Refer to page EL-20 for the charging system troubleshooting procedure.

According to the schematics I have, the only relay attached to the blue lead IS the "Bulb Check Relay"...however, the charge indicator lamp seems to connect to that same blue lead, both on turbo and non-turbo cars. There shouldn't be a relay or check relay on the charge indicator lamp as it should come on when the key is on and the alternator is NOT working, as in the engine NOT running, and go off when the alternator starts charging. The switching of the charge lamp to off is accomplished by the current being turned off by energizing the bulb check relay when the alternator starts charging. See the diagram at EL-88 in the 82 FSM, below. Therefore, to answer the question above regarding which relay is involved with this circuit, it would be #4, the Bulb Check relay in the diagram of the post above.

Which year is S130 is this on? EDIT: See post below explaining the circuit involved.

Engine Bay Relay Box, right front inner fender

Round hand file would work as well.

Living proof of the old saying: "If the old thing doesn't work, just bang on it a few times..." HAHAHA

I had one of those adapters too, or one very similar. Tombarace14 mentioned it and this is how I had to do it and it would have worked fine if the turbo didn't hit the fender well on my ZX. A simple cutoff wheel on a die grinder works well, just don't go all the way through the pipe. (Pardon the rough drawing).

Dan THE Man, to the rescue... THANKS!

Yep, consult your local locksmith and they can cut you some new ones by code (as opposed to copying an old worn out key...(so you don't get a new key that is cut wrong)).

A simple round plug, black or chrome, would easily cover the hole left where the crank was.

Nice install...and if they get any faster, they'd probably shatter the glass... NICE JOB! (of course). How much were they? I may have to get a set for my van.

You have a very worn key... the lock is probably fine... Have a new key cut to code. You'll find the key code on the passenger door lock, if it's not on a white sticker on the inside of the glovebox door. The key should only come out in the all the way counter clockwise position.

You're certainly welcome, and Thank YOU, for using the search feature. Warren

I had my upgrade checked on their machine before I actually bought it. It was rated at 140amp, it put out 165 or so. Needless to say, it's ALWAYS a good idea to have the output checked before you purchase it.