tube80z

Looks good to me. If that ends up being in the way you could always have a small piece that comes above the body and pip pins to the wing's uprights. You could potentially use that system to shift the wing around if you wanted a track setup vs. an XP/SCCA legal setup. Personally, I'd not use aluminum up rights and use steel tube. Then 3d print a a aero shaped cover. I looked up the cost of alloy and choked a little. I keep thinking pre-covid prices for things and getting the shock of what they are now. Keep up the good work! Cary

Hi Jon, You don't have to drill any holes into your panels. You use a thin pressure puck mounted to the surface usually with tape. If you look at a few of Julian Edgars vids he shows off a purchased one. It's a slice with a axial hole down to a radial passage that you hook the tube into and either run to a pressure sensor, manometer, or magnehelic guage. You can find some gauges in inches of water on Amazon too. cary

Yep, I'm a moron

That's where I want to disagree. While many amateurs' may not have access to CFD, wind tunnels, or advanced DA that doesn't mean you can't test these things in a more scientific manner to remove the butt dyno from the experiment. As Jon pointed out I messed up the name of Julian Edgar who has a decent book and a YouTube channel that promotes the content. If you sit through his videos you'll get the high points of what's needed. If you have a newer gopro you also have a data logger and you can record old school manometers inside the car to see if you're change made a difference or not. There's simple coast down testing that can be used to determine drag, etc. It doesn't appear this person did any of that and copied what looked useful here and there. If someone paid for a lot of development and has the same car as you do then this process may work but you also need to know what to change to keep the car balanced. One of the downsides of downforce is that weather has an effect and the more you add (downforce) the more you'll need to change things to stay balanced. Hope that helps, Cary

According to the video they wanted to reduce drag. That mod will increase it. This video is a total waste of time. It's mostly opinion from seeing what a bunch of other people did on youtube and trying that. No data logging, no attempts at actual testing, etc. If you look at Julien Bailey's youtube videos he shows you how to test this stuff for real in simple ways. The gurney should be on the front of the fender and not the rear. Cary

McMaster reference was to find a part and I figured you'd use that to get a cheaper price. I rarely use them myself unless I'm in a real bind and need something right now. It's cool that I can drive over to a warehouse and pick it up.

I thought I might add a few words. While I work in big tech, I can't speak for my company nor any others. I would say that almost all the legitimate companies would never be using this to screw around on public forums. We do test internally with employees (eating our own dog food), solicit public beta testers, and often do customer research under NDA or using third-party research firms. This is probably some bad agent trying it out their own version of a tool to see if it works better than other tools they have in their disposal. Hope that helps, cary

Those adapters can be found in the McMaster catalog and come in all sizes. You can also drill one side or the other too. I may do the same thing you have shown if I decide that a v-belt mounting is more trouble than going this way. At least with the electric motor on the pump you could run the oil while the car is stationary to cool it after a track session.

Nice mounting Clarke. Are you going to cover them to protect from rocks and track debris?

From what little I know once you go past a 4.11 ratio they heat up a lot more. Tilton has a few different pumps. One is made for continuous running and another is for intermittent. Check our https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ for more info. For most the intermittent pump should work fine. But if you are doing enduro or long races then I'd get the continuous version as a precaution. There's not a huge difference in cost between the two.

I've seen these setup using one of the NASCAR blower fans (3-inch duct) that draws air from the back part of the cabin and blows it onto the cooler. If you look on ebay they sell all kinds of carbon covers designed to do that are be used in a pulling manner. Setrab oil cooler, https://www.ebay.com/itm/224998346250 Carbon cover and cooler, https://www.ebay.com/itm/175617112356 Carbon bits, https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Carbon+fiber+Oil+Cooler+duct+&_sacat=0 You can't beat ebay used NASCAR parts prices for a lot of these items. I would recommend you take any used oil cooler to a company the does ultrasonic cleaning. But given this is a diff you could probably just ran solvent through it in the a clean parts washer if that sounds like a pain. When you add the floor you can either cut a hole for the cooler to exit into or add one to the rear valence. The old IMSA Corvettes had an tranny cooler located where the license plate used to sit with a fan behind it.

Is there a reason we left this up?

and now gone

Did you get the machine with an ultrasonic cleaner? I've been thinking about these for a while but it isn't high on my list at the moment.

I'd personally avoid this one as the software doesn't provide a desktop app. Solostorm is probably a much better option and if you have any engine data from a swap then you'd possibly want to use an AIM solo DL or the racecapture logger. It depends on what you need from it. If you want something basic and lap timing Harry's laptimer is probably about as good as this. Cary

My car was 1850 with 5 gallons of fuel in the cell and had an easy 100 pounds that I could have removed. I had to run that much fuel as the cell wasn't installed properly and it would have fuel starvation. I dropped a bunch of weight from the front hubs/brakes when I redid them to lose much lighter Wilwood calipers. Someone had spent hours grinding the 4-piston Toyotas down to the size of a Wilwood Dynalites. Hubs were steel and couldn't have been changed to Aluminum. Car had a steel driveshaft, R200 diff, and all the stock crossmembers. I had a super-heavy Optima deep cell battery (65 pounds) because I had alternator problems until I switched to a modern Kubota tractor version. All in all I thought there was an easy 100 pounds of weight I could have removed getting the car into the 1750 range. I've seen other Z's that low so mine isn't an outlier, just not a normal compared to most. Wheels, tires, brakes, clutch/flywheels, transmissions, subframe braces, all are hidden weight that really adds up. Even too much MIG welding. I started to look more and more at modern panel bond techniques as a way to save weight. Riveting brackets that didn't need to be unbolted, etc.

My guess is that the spammers are using ChatGPT or something similar to make comments. As long as the profile looks reasonable and the posts don't look too odd for the forum I've been letting them slide. I think this is only going to get more difficult in the future and will need some kind of tool to upfront check to verify that someone isn't a bot or spammer. Cary

Dan would have to answer but we're missing the spam plugin. It appears this software has a license fee that isn't trivial that Dan has been paying. I'm not sure how much the spam plugin costs but there may be other reasons it stopped working I don't know about.

Also removed. I try to make sure I check the site a couple of times a day but it doesn't always work out that way. I appreciate the extra help in getting rid of these.

These are all flagged as spammers.

The main reason was weight. Moving to 15 inch wheels in the combo I was using added almost a hundred pounds to the car. This was an autox/hillclimb car and not a road racer. I wouldn't have used 13s on those.

If you like I can add these as an FAQ. I'm going to link to these for now from your other message. Cary

Thanks NewZed. Those and a bunch of others have been flagged as spammers. I've also removed from bot posts and topics from the forums. I've been away for a few days and unable to do my daily patrolling. We seem to have a lot more spam activity lately and it will take the village to fight them. Thanks for all the help, Cary

Hi JHM, I'm not sure why you are seeing this. When I look I see an updated certificate. The only issue I think might be an issue is if your browser doesn't consider Kaspersky to be a safe certificate authority. What do you see for the certificate details? Thanks, Cary

I sent Dan a DM to look into this. I don't have access to these functions. Sorry, I'm not more help. Cary