JMortensen

It would work OK, but the L26 is the readheaded stepchild of the L engine series. I believe it uses dished pistons, so you can forget about the quench advantages of the MN47 head. It's not the question you asked, but I'd sell the MN47 and get a P head and put it on a flat top L28 and do the shim/shave .080" thing if you're spending money. If you're not spending money, it will work just fine, just won't be particularly spectacular as far as power goes.

Air horns/velocity stacks/bells for Webers should be easy to find. TWM will have them but theirs are $$$. You can also try wolfcreekracing.com, Todd over there is very helpful, and I believe the Weber and Mikuni bolt pattern is the same. There are probably a lot more sources than that, ebay, etc. You can even make your own. I had a situation where I was running a medium length air filter and there were no velocity stacks that fit it very well. I bought a piece of 3/4" aluminum and gave it to a machinist friend. He drilled 6 holes in it and then used a carbide router bit to round the edge. Last he countersunk some holes to attach the stack to the carb. I cut them out on a band saw and bolted them on. A bit crude maybe, but I thought they looked absolutely bitchin in a backyard engineering sort of way. I think I paid $150 for the metal, the carbide router bit, and the labor, but that was pretty close to 10 years ago and I know metal prices have gone up and the machinist did me a favor.

I went ahead with push lok hose and fittings and -8 all the way up to the front. I didn't want to have to figure out the ss braided lines, and the push lok stuff is apparently pretty easy to hook up and way more than capable of handling 6 psi, plus it doesn't require clamps. I also decided to do another flexible line junction between the pump outlet and the hard line. I just wasn't sure attaching the hard line straight to the pump was a good idea. Got all the fittings and hose and clamps to do the whole thing for $125 shipped. Will post pics as it comes together.

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=43104

That's approximately how much a fully built L16 with a SOHC head makes at 9500 rpm. Ask Dennis Hale or Gian Bowles.

Now THERE is a case where I think worrying about hood pins might be justified. For us guys who aren't limited by the rules and can just add more power, we just don't need to be as concerned with the drag, and unless you've done everything you can to the suspension, engine, and done everything you can to maximize downforce, the time, $$$, and energy spent to reduce hood pin drag could have been better utilized elsewhere.

If it is, that's kind of a silly reason to dislike clsd units. Just go to any autoparts store and buy some friction modifier and add to the diff. Keep adding more until it stops chattering. Some really tight ones might take 2 or 3 bottles or tubes of the stuff. Just keep adding until it goes away. Problem solved.

I still have to buy hoses and fittings, and now I have two choices. The cell has a -8 outlet and that makes me think I should run the entire system in -8. I found a 1/4 NPT to -8 fitting, so even that little pump wouldn't be a problem. If I go -8 I will have a SS flex line from the -8 fitting on the cell to a filter, more stainless flex to the pump inlet, aluminum line from the pump outlet to the front of the car and to a bigger fuel filter in the engine compartment and a flex line from the filter to whatever carb inlet I find that fits the BG carb. Going to wait until I get the carb to buy the inlet to make sure it is right. I also have some of the parts to run the system with rubber hoses (I have some 3/8" hose and various barb fittings). If I go this way I would save probably $100, but I keep struggling with the ss flex line issue. I'd like this thing to be safe which makes me think I should go all AN and stainless flex hoses, although every other car I've ever owned or raced has had rubber hoses. I would need a -8 to 3/8" barb for the cell, then I have rubber hose and barbs for the filter and the pump, then it would be probably -8 outlet to the 1/2" aluminum, to the fuel filter, then barb again and rubber hose to the carb. I know I can make this thing tech-worthy for autoxing with rubber hoses and save some cash. I'm just trying really hard not to have to redo this stuff later on, because next time I'll likely be on my back underneath the car instead of standing next to an upside down car on a rotisserie. Suggestions here?

Agreed. Just drive it. Having a VLSD is MUCH better than having no LSD at all. If you aren't seriously racing or drifting, you should just be happy that you don't spin the inside tire anymore, and think of VLSD vs HLSD vs CLSD as a theoretical argument. Yes, the longnose CLSD and VLSD use 4 bolt outers. Shortnose are different and I think Mat is getting confused there.

I was just asking similar questions the other day and was told that if I was going to get a larger pump and use a bypass regulator to be sure to make the return line very big so that there was no restriction there. I am using -6 lines and was told the return should be -8 or -10. I have no actual experience, but that is the advice I was given...

Weaker in terms of lockup, but stronger in terms of how much power you can put through it. At least, anecdotally.

Or sell them. I'm sure you can get what you paid for them. Everyone who has that Z31T LSD should really install those clutches. The MM CV adapters should work, as I think the VLSD CV shaft still uses the same 4 bolt pattern on the outer end.

I believe that is a VLSD. We used to have pictures of them taken apart in the gallery, seem to have lost them in the switch to the new software. Thick part on the side gear is the viscous coupling if I'm not mistaken. I haven't been into one myself, but try to pay attention and I'm fairly sure that's what you've got there. So long as you have the CV's to fit it (they're different), you should be good to go.

On the fasteners at the front of the rear flare, what are they attached to underneath? Did you weld tabs to the body? Did you need to do the same with the top fasteners too, or were those close enough that they could attach straight to the body without a tab?

Yeah, it was a nice uniform flat black coat of Zero Rust, but then it got a lot of white overspray on it which is why the bottom looks grey. I'm not going to fix it, it's a race car.

I've got mine out so I could go measure, but without measuring I'd estimate that sucker is .180 wall or better. It's THICK metal to distort under a 150 ft/lb torque load. If you've seen a crush sleeve they take 450+ ft/lbs to crush and they are probably .080" and formed with a bend in them. I know that reading the FSM that makes what you are saying logical, but I'm not buying that argument. I think this is one area where the FSM is just plain old wrong.

Flowmaster will give it that underwater burble, but they generally suck for flow so you'll probably lose some power to get that "I drove my car into a lake" sound. I kinda like the 2.5" super turbo sound. Here's mine from about 8 years ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=15578

Most likely the seal is causing the drag. Did you lube the seal? If you want to check you could take the seal out, torque it to 150 and check again but you may F up the seal if you're not careful. Although the FSM has instructions that read something like "add torque until the preload = x lbs to begin to rotate as checked by a spring measure gauge", I do not see how additional torque affects this. The torque goes through the stub axle outer flange through the outer bearing inner race through the strut spacer through the inner bearing inner race, the companion flange, and to the nut. What changes in there based on the torque? Nothing should really move, which is why I don't see the torque having any effect (as long as it is within reason.

Swap the LSD into the 3.36 housing. Much easier, and there is a writeup on how to do it in the FAQ.

When I was in high school (in CA for what it's worth) I watched a car roll at about 15 mph. Girl had her license for 1 day and decided to teach an underage friend to drive on the insanely busy street in front of the school. Driver got freaked by all the cars whizzing by in the opposite direction and gently eased herself into the parked cars, at which point she managed to roll up a parked car and roll the car over. I was probably 150 feet away and watched the whole thing happen. It wasn't like the car was a raised truck or something, it was a Mazda 626 or something like that. Bizarre, but it can happen. I once was driving down Hwy 1 into San Luis Obispo and there was a mid 90's Chevy truck rolled in the middle of the highway. There are no turns where this happened. I've wondered for years what you have to do to flip a truck with no turns, flat road, etc. Maybe someone can help me out with that one...

With Canadian license plates. And it was Vancouver where they were stopping on the onramps. And all the Canadian drivers were changing lanes when there was an onramp merging. I don't think you're getting out of this one so easily. I take it YOU don't stop at the end of the onramp then?

Am I reading you right? You ran the electric pump I have with no regulator and no return straight to the carbs then? Or did you run the mechanical pump? Seems like nobody uses a FPR with the mechanical pumps...

It's probably the pinion seal hitting the flange. You can pull the pinion seal and tighten the nut to check how it feels without the seal in there, but if you're like me that probably means that you need to replace the seal. That one is in there pretty tight and I ruined my old one pulling it out. The pinion nut was not run loose, I can pretty much guarantee you that one. When I first got my 300ZXT R200 I had it rebuilt at the local gear shop. They left the pinion loose; they had it snugged but forgot to torque it down. I drove it for about 2 miles before the nut backed off and the pinion walked off the ring gear into the LSD and locked the rear tires solid. I was very very very lucky in that I heard something going on back there and grabbed a friend of mine and was showing him the noise getting on and off the gas very lightly at about 10 mph when it locked up. I was about 3 houses down from my own so we jacked up the back of the car with a floor jack and pushed it back to the house. No damage was done to the diff so the nut was loctited and torqued and that was that. R32 is a long nose R200, right? I think some/all of the later short nose diffs do use a crush sleeve.

Might do a quick back to back test, pull them off and see if there is a noticeable difference. I would be concerned about restriction as well. I don't like the socks or the screens on the horns, I think a filter is much better, and the ITG style is the best of the filters because it doesn't limit what direction the air can flow into the carb from.

Either your g meter is busted, or you need to step on the brakes harder. .73 g is not very much for braking.