JMortensen

Those side impact beams were a 280Z thing. 240's have a door frame and skin and a window regulator in them. They're basically just sheet metal.

I do believe smoke on decel is a sign of bad rings too. I remember my buddy telling me about his truck shooting thick clouds of oil smoke through the Yosemite valley when he was going downhill with bad rings and engine braking to try and preserve the brakes...

You're probably going to have to pull apart another strut to find one. Those pieces usually travel with the strut.

That's a real can of worms, almost as bad as the dreaded "Q" word... Search MN47, find posts by Mack and 1 fast z. I'd say look for me, but I'm such a post whore that you'll have a hard time finding anything.

I still think those are fairly huge compared to the type used in the test. Might be something for the next run, to see what the net drag is and if one is better than the other...

Need to SEAL the airdam to the rad core support and close up all the holes that allow air to divert around the radiator.

Only the 88 with the viscous LSD has the weird shafts. His clutch type takes the usual 280Z/ZX/300ZX shafts.

We really need a better hipo L6 FAQ. Search and there are some much more informative threads in the archives.

Oh. Well you're still burning whatever crap comes out of the crankcase, although that may or may not be enough of an issue to consider something else...

You guys will be missing out on the benefit of having vacuum in the crankcase if you just route it to a catch can. Not that this is a horrible idea, I had my L6 running like that for years. My current plan is to do the exhaust PCV setup to get the vacuum without putting a bunch of oily garbage into the intake. You can also use a vacuum pump from a diesel and hook that into your catch can. The supposed benefits of the vacuum are better seal on the piston rings, not burning oily crap anymore, and even less wind resistance in the crankcase.

I like my women to eat meat and shave their legs, but to each his own...

I think that is correct, the legend is wrong.

You know I'm not a math whiz, but did you figure this .17 degree of toe change based on .010" misaglinment front and back? Because the length of the bushing sleeve cuts down the possible misalignment considerably. I'm not really able to explain what I mean easily, so I'll use an example. If you have a bolt through a sleeve that is 1/8" wide and it has .010" of slop, there is a considerable degree of movement within the sleeve (and angle change) before the bolt hits the sleeve. However if the bolt is fed through a 10" long sleeve, the .010" of slop equates to relatively little toe change. I was surprised how little movement was possible using the bolt. I had figured on the slop helping me to align the strut, but really it allowed barely any movement whatsoever.

That's a great idea. If you search for "chassis stiffening" or "strengthen chassis" you'll find some examples of people who have done just that. It really is in my opinion a better way to strengthen the chassis than installing subframe connectors. Too bad I didn't figure that out until after I installed my rollbar...

I always liked the 6 spokes, light wheels are good! Yours look pretty shiny!

Might work. I'll have to see how much backspace it takes. The current wheels are 5" backspace I think, so if I could run 4" that might do it, still need a wide wheel though. It's going to take a little figuring if backspace is going to be better or if moving the rack will be the solution.

There should be no added stress to the ball joint from moving the control arm up or down.

That's not the problem, if I was going to run it right where it is I'd have no trouble with that. The problem is to adjust out the bumpsteer with the inner pivots all the way up the tie rod end would likely have to be moved down another inch.

There is a FAQ post for bumpsteer, you might want to read it before you move your pivots. What I did on my car was to make a mark on the tie rod that corresponded to 1/8" toe in for street driving, then another that corresponded to 1/4" toe out. I'd only adjust one side, which makes the steering wheel very slightly crooked, but it was an easy adjustment to do at the track.

No larger rims for me. Car needs to be LOW. Can't wait to get the trailer out and set up some benches and really make the garage "mine", but it's a huge improvement already. Thanks.

Get yourself a Haynes/Chilton manual, it will tell you how to adjust the valves. Adjusting while it is running is something you do on some pushrod motors, but not on the L series. You'll need a feeler gauge and some wrenches, I think its a 14 and a 19, but it's been a while. It's not hard to do and is thoroughly explained in the auto parts store manuals. A good L series valve cover gasket can be taken off and reinstalled many times before it tears or anything. If you have a cork gasket on there you better get a new one from the auto parts store while you're getting your wrenches, feeler gauges, and manual.

I think big holes in the hood would be easier, but ???

Here's the pics. My old garage was about 1/2 the width of the new one, and probably 7 or 8 feet deeper. In the old garage when I went around the front of the car while it was on the rotisserie I literally had to suck it in and turn sideways... The car is at full ride height in the pics. It's going to be lower than that when I drive it. It's not that cool really, I'm just stoked to see it actually rolling around on its own four wheels! 10' ceilings. The cutouts on the wall are for flourescent lights. The PO painted cars, so he has them installed all along that wall. This shot gives a little idea of what the roll center is like at the max possible height. Keep in mind, no engine or anything else in there... Rear rotisserie bracket is still on the car. Back end of trailer is touching the wall... Front end of trailer is PAST the door track. Literally had to flex the door past the trailer! Look how close the tie rods are to the rim. I suppose I could remove the bump steer spacers, but it still wouldn't allow enough movement to fix the bumpsteer with the inner LCA pivots in their highest position.