JMortensen

Why don't you just do time trials (time attacks)? Pretty much run whatcha brung, just need some basic safety equipment.

The only odd thing about the BZ3099 is that it has a 14mm upper shaft with no D shaped ring. So that means that it won't fit through stock strut tops. You'll have to grind or drill them out. Once that is done the D shape isn't there to hold the strut in place while you tighten the nut on top. So you need an impact gun to tighten (don't overtighten though!) If you have camber plates you'll need a thinner bushing to go from 5/8" down to 14mm. It's really thin, vs the 5/8 to 12mm, which is basically just like most shank style lug nuts for 12mm x 1.25 studs.

Great info. I'm going to add it to the Diff FAQ. Thanks!

Let me first say that I am not a photographer, it's not a hobby of mine and isn't likely to become one. If I take pictures of stuff it's probably going to be shots of friends and family, or more likely, car parts which I will then post here. I never use a tripod (don't even own one), but do try to brace my hands to eliminate shaking the camera as a cause for blurry pictures. I had an older FinePix a few years back and replaced it with a Nikon CoolPix 3200. Granted the FinePix was the cheaper model and the Nikon is only the middle of the road model, but I really couldn't be happier with the picture quality of the new one, and the old one was pretty bad. What really used to get me was low light conditions like inside my garage. I'd take pictures and use the flash and they would always come out blurry due to a lack of light. The Nikon has a bunch of different functions on it, but the one that I use most is the flower function, works well for close ups of parts. I guess this is for taking that bee hovering over the flower shot, but it works FAN-friggin-TASTIC in the garage and makes low light photos come out crystal clear. The only complaint I have about the camera at all is that in mpeg mode it has an annoying clicking that seems to be impossible to get rid of, but I didn't buy it for movies anyway. OLD CAMERA (taken in the daylight with the garage door open, autoflash): NEW CAMERA (taken in garage with flourescent bulbs, door closed, autoflash):

Yeah, this seems like the biggest problem. If this money can buy more time in the tunnel, that seems like it would be better than using it to buy a bunch of parts which you won't get to test due to time constraints. Can you buy more time?

Here's another thread with info showing what Nissan says is in there isn't what is actually in there: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629

There are apparently a bunch of different LSD's, so it wouldn't surprise me at all to find out the Skyline had something different than the Z31T we got in the USA. There is some info on the differences in the Diff FAQ here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 (look at the section on Nissan LSDs) And neither of those actually match what Nissan actually says should be in the clutch pack. How many versions are there? Who knows...

I know it's been done before. The question is why choose one length over another. The answer to that question (as far as I am aware) basically boils down to two things. 1. Will it coil bind before the strut compresses all the way? I know this is a problem with 8" springs using rates under about 275 or 300 in lbs. I don't know what rate you have to get down to in order to start having coil binding issues with a 10" spring. Should be able to look it up and figure it out though. 2. What's the minimum weight you can get away with? If you want to minimize weight, you want to run the shortest spring that doesn't coil bind. Other than those two things, I'm not really aware of any other critical factors in deciding on a spring length. Less critical stuff like cost and availability might also be important, but not really to the way the car functions as much as to your wallet.

No I don't think they are. I think the spindles can be made to work, but I doubt the hats and all the rest would work.

http://www.modernmotorsports.com and http://www.arizonazcar.com sell aluminum hubs. I think 240hoke figured out how to make Camaro or Vette hubs work on his Z. Search and you might find more info on that if you are a DIY'er.

John Coffey has warned of those before. Bad idea. The poly doesn't let the strut move freely, which leads to dead struts.

You must be using 5/8" balls then instead of 3/4... I like your version a lot better from an installation perspective. Very nicely done! I did forget to mention how the loose bearing issue turned out. 3 of 4 holders were snug but not tight. One monoball needed a bit of sanding with a dremel and a flap wheel, and still takes a couple taps with a socket to the outer race to drive it in. I think I'll use a bit of loctite on the other 3 like you suggested.

No problem. It's fine to post this sort of thing, that's not the issue. Just in the future if it isn't technical in nature, put it in the non-tech forum.

That is a beautiful 510. Verrrrry nice.

Why do ads for cars on ebay keep ending up in the Chevy V8 TECH forum???

I did search ebay as you suggested and emailed one guy to get a quote on everything I need. I'll let everyone know what the deal is when he responds. Also found the XM's at this website: http://www.racetechmotorsports.com/index.php?cPath=23_132 and it looks like they are $14.50 each, which is less than half the cost of the JMX10 that I was using up front. So right there that's $150 savings. Hopefully these guys will give me a break since I'm buying so many. So I reassembled everything, it all looks peachy. I think this is pretty much done, just needs paint. I'm going to have a LOT of little parts to paint one of these days... I looked at the tunnel again and there is a plate that goes up the sides of the tunnel right where a Ron Tyler diff mount would go. So what I'm going to do is weld in a plate on the floor and have it curve up the side to the second plate. I figure this will be the the most rigid way I can attach the roll bar. In the inside I had patched a couple of holes and cut a couple little brackets out poorly, so I'll have to do some grinding to get this area flat enough to weld a plate in there. You can see the 7 holes where I'll plug weld the plate to the floor before welding around the perimeter. This will ensure that the parts underneath will be securely attached to the plate inside. Thanks for all the help guys! I'm really happy with how this one turned out.

You tell em Mr Hat.

I use GC camber plates, so the load goes to the needle bearing underneath. Probably just crappy bearings that beat the liner out like John said. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll take a look at those XM rod ends. I'm going to need 10 rod ends and 8 monoballs, so a little bit cheaper per unit makes a big difference in the end...