JMortensen

That's a good idea Ron, but if he already pressed the bearings on, it's going to be tough to get them back off without a special tool. Also, I wouldn't hesitate to do some light grinding on the case. Zmanco, you should see what they do to Ford 9" cases to fit lower gears in them...

I think you're confusing two things. One is the tire DIAMETER, the other is the combined tire and wheel WEIGHT. I don't know but I would guess that your new wheels are a larger diameter than the old ones. Can't speak to the weight. If the diameter is larger, then it is essentially the same as putting a taller rear gear in. You'll have a lower actual top speed, a higher theoretical top speed, and less power all the way around.

The 300ZX NA plates are 6 hole. The 300ZXT plates are 4 hole and a much smaller diameter. Pics in the "What diff should I choose?" sticky thread.

Did a search on R180 LSD install, and lookee what I found: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102862

Where is it hitting?

I can't remember ever hearing of that problem before, so maybe it's not that common. Then again maybe I wasn't paying attention. My other thought is: Did you try the BFH method? Is there a reason why you can't just beat in the end of the cap a bit?

Well that was easier to find than I thought. It was only 3 days ago... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116073

There was a comment on those end plates just a couple days ago. I think someone (zcarnut?) was saying that the 300ZX NA uses the same joints, and that the bulge in the cap isn't as deep. I'll see if I can track that down...

One other thing about reloading .454. You need a HEEEEAAAAAAVVVVY crimp. If you don't crimp hard enough, firing one shell can make the bullets walk out of the other shells in the cylinder. Buy some factory ammo and look at how it's crimped. It's pretty insane, but if you don't do it heavy enough you can jam the cylinder when the bullets walk out of the brass.

I might be wrong on this, but I think you can get the .454 die and reload .45 with it. It's been at least 14 or 15 years, but I think you can adjust where the crimp goes by screwing the die up or down. I'm sure someone else can verify that for you. You can definitely get a press that will do both the 44 and the 454. EDIT--Guess I didn't forget everything... http://www.nextag.com/Redding-3-Die-Set-63106876/prices-html

I went out to Buttonwillow just to watch about 6 or 7 years ago and saw the Datsun Alley Z31T pass a full on GT1 Mustang. When I first started watching the Mustang was a little ahead of the Z31. I figured he had just passed the Z31 and would be driving off into the distance. Not so. The Z31 reeled in the Mustang! You could tell he had his hands full, but he managed the pass, then I think he drove off the track in the button hook and gave up the position. Undeterred, he ran that Mustang back down and passed him again! It was very fun to watch those guys duking it out and I was pretty damn impressed with the speed of the Nissan.

Save the pictures to your hard drive, then open them up there. The images are enormous and they don't show up full size on the website. You can zoom in on the area you're interested in and you should be able to read all the dimensions. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401

Or you can use a thread FILE like you said in the first post. I've spent some time behind a thread file fixing stub axles. It works. Tedious, but it works, and just about any thread file will have the 1.5mm threads on it. The trick is to cut the peened part of the nut before you take it off the stub axle. I know, not much use telling you that NOW, but if you ever have to do it again, you'll know...

This is very common on the L6. In fact, so common that there was a thread about it maybe a week ago. Let's see.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115687 I searched and couldn't find it either, probably because of the bad title, so I'm changing that.

Way back when I was reloading I used the single press style and always coveted the progressive reloading equipment. I would not even bother with the single press style especially since you've got the experience with shotgun shells. Get a progressive and start cranking em out!!!

In my case I started with 250/250 and that was bad, went to 200/250 and that was less bad. I hear what you're saying though. I added a thicker front swaybar to my Toyota P/U and the understeer decreased, presumably because the camber didn't change so much due to body roll. Then it decreased again when I added a rear bar.

Different strokes for different folks. My car still felt like it understeered when I ran 200/250, I can only imagine the horrendous understeer I would have had with 325/250, but again, it's a cumulative effect of everything on the car, and your's could handle a lot different than mine with those spring rates.

Yet another SAAB story...

With that setup as you've shown it I don't see how you could adjust the TC rod very far. The shims on either side of the bearing are too long I think. I would get some thinner ones so that you can adjust the caster, or maybe cut down the long one on the front and both on the back so that you can stack some washers to on one end or the other to adjust the caster.

Try google. It's an axle that looks like a gun barrel. I don't know why the call them "rifled" since there certainly aren't grooves in the axle. You actually don't need all that axle metal in the center. Its the outside portion of the metal that does most of the twisting. Just like sway bars, you can get away with using tubular axles if you make them strong enough and they have a thick enough wall.

The problem with .45 Colt loads is that they're made for the lowest common denominator, which is the guy with the 19th century Colt SAA who pulls it out and wants to fire off a few. It's been a while, but I seem to think that you can expect about 800 fps out of a 220gr lead bullet. Not stunningly powerful by any stretch. I think they're about the same as your typical .45 ACP round. You can load them up a lot stronger, but if you're going to handload, might as well do the .454 cases and get the bullet that much closer to the forcing cone? My SWAG is that it would be more accurate with the bullet as close to the cone as possible. I remember my uncle telling me not to shoot .38 specials in my .357, but I can't remember the reason, so I'm guessing a bit there...

Well, it should be better than my recommendation for getting a second shot off. Hope you enjoy it.