JMortensen

I've noticed this phenomenon in every car I've owned. I always attributed it to thick oil on the cylinder walls giving a little more compression. I don't know where I got that from, or if it is correct.

It's tough to comment on them without actually holding it in your hands, but they look fine to me. I paid $275 to have a machinist make mine. I think just on the surface I like the "savage" adjustable TC rod better. You might want to search for that and see if Auxilary is still trying to get a group buy together.

I guess nobody is reading that other thread I linked to. The MSA flares are made by Classic Datsun. So if MSA has ZG flares in carbon fiber, they should be made by Classic Datsun. And I still haven't ordered a set of flares yet, so if any of you carbon fiber freaks orders up some CF flares, my offer to buy your perfect condition old fiberglass flares for $50 still stands.

Now you're going to hit another snag. In 74 or 75 they changed the ID of the ring gear and the later one is more common. So IIRC that LSD that you linked to won't fit your 240Z diff. I don't think the early diffs came in 3.90, so if you have that it's probably a later diff swapped in. Easy solution is to get the front diff out of a mid 80's Nissan 4x4 which came in 3.90 and 4.11 I think. Those will fit the LSD and give a much better ratio than the original 3.36 (manual) or 3.54 (auto) that came in the early Z's.

That is the first time I've heard anything like that with a coil being the culprit. I would wait until this problem happens again, then test the coil immediately while you're experiencing the problem. My understanding of the internals of coils is that they are just two big spools of wire usually submerged in oil or epoxy. So the only problem you're really going to encounter is going to be a short or a bad/loose connection. That test should still apply, and if you've only got the problem when hot, test it hot. This is going to sound like it is out of left field, but have you considered vapor lock as a possibility? If you still have the mechanical fuel pump or the original metal fuel rail those things can put a LOT of heat into the fuel system. I had problems with vapor lock once when I was at a track and it was 105º. After that race I installed an electric fuel pump and a rubber line that went from the fuel filter to the radiator core support then back to the carbs and had no return line. That cured my problem. Could be that while you're swapping the coil the hood is open and everything else is cooling off under there. Then you jump in and voila, runs great until you're stuck in traffic again.

This time you're right. When the subject is burning flags or abortions then we'll see who sides with individual freedom. This is a very good point. In San Luis Obispo, CA they had exactly the opposite bill on the ballot a few years back. The bill was called SOAR (Save Our Agricultural Resources) and it stated that ANY "open land," which we commonly refer to as "farms" was to be sold, it had to be voted on by the county. This was the county's way of keeping WalMart out, by forcing landowners with big parcels, or farmers, NOT to sell to developers. Luckily that one failed to pass.

Actually I think all of the 6 cylinder L series timing covers are identical except the diesel, which has a taller block, similar to an L20B vs L16 comparison.

The ballast is to reduce voltage so that the points don't get burned up, so that shouldn't be necessary with most (all?) EI systems. As to why you're having this trouble it's tough to say. I'm wondering if it might not be the coil at all. Is everything else in good condition? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Plugs aren't fouled, etc... Here's a simple coil test procedure: http://www.mymopar.com/coiltest.htm

Sorry, didn't mean to get so off topic, my point was to show the amount of "protection" we get from the gov't. Personally I've never smoked pot but I'm one of the very very few I know in my age group who hasn't. The point is more that the people who have smoked it haven't succumbed to "Refer Madness" or anything like it. It seems to me no worse than alcohol, yet we chose to make pot illegal because white people in the 30's were afraid of crazed Mexican stoners raping their daughters. And I would agree with Alex on the growing issue and say to Pop that tomatoes are very easy to grow, but I still see them at the store every time I go. As to Alex's original story, I'm not too pleased with the idea that the local govt can decide that it is better for the community I live in for my home to be demolished.

From what I've experienced the SU's don't like to rev that high on an L28. The stock FI flapper door seems to be the limitation with the Z/ZX fuel injection system. I was just reading a thread in the archives yesterday or the day before where Bastaad525 was saying he got a 20 hp increase on the dyno from swapping a motor from FI to ZTherapy SU's. I think he took the motor out of a ZX and swapped it into his 240. IIRC he still felt that it wouldn't smack the redline though. In my case I went from SU's to 44 Mikunis, and I went from having a rev limiter that I could touch if I stood on the gas long enough, to having a rev limiter that I could hit really hard. If you want max revs, triple carbs or triple TB is the way to go IMO. SU's will be an improvement over stock FI, but you need to open up some of those restrictions to really get the revs IME. Yes, triple carbs take some tuning skills, but they aren't rocket science, and a simple O2 sensor in the exhaust along with a good understanding of what is going on with each carb circuit is all you need to get them in tune ($$$ for jets helps). The triple TB setup is better, but people who have done it have spent big dollars on it. If it can be done inexpensively, triple TB injection is the way to go.

Kinda ironic that the more liberal members of the court come up with this decision that helps business, and that the conservatives on the Supreme Court would be on the side of the little guy. I guess more than big business vs little guy, this one is about TAX REVENUE. Bunch o BS if you ask me. Alex, did you see this steaming pile o crap this morning? http://news.yahoo.com/fc/health/medical_marijuana I sure am glad the govt is there to unilaterally decide what I can do and where I should live.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91490&page=2&pp=25& Also, I'm sure the 30 lbs is dimensional weight, like the box they come in is so big it has to be charged as 30 lbs...

Ron Carter has done this: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11109&cat=500&page=7 Actually the description of the DP setup is pretty much what this is. Maybe Ron got these from DP...

I've seen 2 people break a 180 LSD behind L6 motors. Neither engine was built either. Both people drove the car hard, one snapped the mustache bar prior to actually breaking the carrier. I had assumed that they both had the 2 pinion LSD just because it broke, but I'm not sure. One of these two actually broke the carrier itself. Only the early cars had the funky axle geometry. 70 and early 71, after that they were switched so that the axles line up with the diff. The quick and easy identifier is the transverse link. If it is straight, then the car has the diff forward. If it is curved, then the car has the diff moved back. Some of the 70's and 71's had the diff moved back after customers complained of vibrations, so while most 70's and early 71's have the diff forward, I've come across a few that were already moved back. You don't need to worry about halfshaft length when you move it back. If you go to CV shafts you can leave it where it is, but that's not as easy with the R180 as it is with the R200.

That ought to haul a BIGASS enclosed trailer and probably still get the same fuel mileage as my 1500 hauling an open trailer... congratulations.

This is just a SWAG, but here goes. Since the Indy track is all about the straightaway speed, the teams were trying to run the least downforce possible, and maximize mechanical grip for the slower infield section of the track. The lower pressure would gain more mechanical grip as you said, and the trade off is more heat. The heat could cause the tire to delaminate, a la Firestone/Ford Explorer, and there is your failure. Softer compounds put heat into the tire faster than harder compounds, so that's how the softer compound fits in. Just a SWAG, but there it is.

Why am I doubting that the ones you'd find on ebay are properly designed and constructed for this purpose?

I just went out and measured on my old stub axle. The threaded part of the RX7 stud that sticks through is 1 3/4" and the total length of the stud from one end to the other looks to be about 2 3/8".

I'm pretty sure the ZX stubs are all 25 spline. The turbos definitely are, as evidenced by Pete Paraska's website showing the use of the 240 stub with a ZXT companion flange: http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

Larry that's a nice mount. Definitely addresses the same problem I had. Wish I had seen that 10 years ago. In my case I wouldn't have needed the adapter at all. I purchased the adapters separately from the seats, so that would have saved me $100 IIRC.

I almost needed depends just watching it. That's a good roll cage.

I believe you heard wrong. It looks to me as if the area between the floor behind the seats and the deck between the strut towers is the strongest part of the car. There is more structure there than just anywhere else in the car that I'm aware of. I think the floor to deck area is the closest thing to a "torque box" structure in a Z. In addition underneath the doors connecting the firewall to the area right behind the seats are the biggest frame "rails" in a Z. I don't know what you call these parts, but they essentially look like very large frame rails and connect the front of the car to the back again in that spot behind the seats. So I think this is really the strongest area in the whole unibody, braced by the torque box in the rear and the "rails" in front. I think this is why the hoop is tied in right there. Katman just posted this link again. If anyone knows, he does: http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/ZCageArticle.html

I missed the race, but caught some of the qualifying. So I guess that means that they pulled all the cars on Michelins? Ouch. Did you see last year's USGP? Watching Ralf back into the wall at 200 mph and then sit there for 2 minutes with no corner workers or emergency people even attempting to get to him was probably enough of a motivator for them to make that call. I guess if I had to miss a GP, I missed the right one.

I don't think that's going to do enough to prevent the B pillars from cracking. After having been crawling in around and under the rear subframe to stitch the whole thing together I've got a couple suggestions. First is weld a straight bar between the two strut towers. Second is do a proper hoop that attaches to the roof support (map light area) and tie that back to the strut towers also. That really is the answer structurally in my not-a-structural-engineer opinion. The trans tunnel has no support in it at all really (at least my 70 doesn't), so I just don't think that it's the right place to run a brace to. If you didn't want the whole roll bar you'd actually be better off just running the supports BACK and to plates welded over the rear subframe than to the tranny tunnel IMO. But really tying the roof to the strut towers is what you want to do and the best way to do that is with a roll bar IMO.