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Whitley_280z_2+2 last won the day on October 15 2019

Whitley_280z_2+2 had the most liked content!

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About Whitley_280z_2+2

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    North Carolina

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  1. For anyone who might be interested, new O2 sensors fixed the random misfire issue. I think they went bad because of a completely blocked PCV system due to a kinked line (at least I hope there isn’t another issue).
  2. The misfire code we were dealing with went away in open loop mode where the engine runs on speed density (I think). After talking to some people, it seems like there still might be an issue with the MAF sensor because we never got a genuine GM part. An AC Delco part is on its way and in the meantime I cleaned the fuel injectors, verified the fuel pressure (steady 60 psi), and replaced a PCV hose because it was kinked. Since we are just waiting on a MAF sensor, I made this to show the whole build process:
  3. Hey neat! Will try to have the car at a Triangle Z car club meet soon seems like that’s the most active group nearby. Would be neat to see your car. It’s crazy you know that Church... the road that turns off there I think it’s called Rock Spring Church Road is really fun to drive ; ). Thanks for commenting!
  4. Game over... misfire and the dreaded P0300 random/multiple misfire code. Plugged in the intake air temperature for the first time (forgot to do that earlier because the engine only just today threw that code) and thought that would clear up the issue but nope. Time for some serious troubleshooting. Already has all new plugs, plug wires, MAF, O2s so I’m thinking coil, injector, or burnt wire.
  5. Did some fun stuff today. First, took a shot at a DIY alignment using the string method to get a total of 1/8 inch toe in. I know it’s not the most precise but the car tracks straight so we will just have to see how the tires wear in. Gave it the first wash! And went for a drive:
  6. I meant propellor shaft I guess... the one that goes from the transmission to the diff lol. I have a JCI driveshaft/propellor for the LS swap and the flange on it is way to thick for the original bolts otherwise I would definitely still use them. Thanks for the help anyways though!
  7. Found a driveshaft bolt in the driveway yesterday so that needed work. After further inspection, all the driveshaft bolts were loose. The bolts were a little short and had no lock tight. So, we replaced all the driveshaft bolts with these that have a shoulder and nylock nuts. The high beam switch on the turn signal lever has always been broken so we decided to install a button on the dash in its place. Took the dash out to put in a button that does the same thing. Forgot how complicated things were under the dash. Added a Deutsch connector to all the AC wires to make it cleaner. Also finally got an inner shift boot in, which should help a lot with noise and heat.
  8. Nice! Yeah this is a great time to work on cars.
  9. Thanks! Yeah the rear will probably stay the same but might add some tow hooks or something where some bolt holes are. I’m in Raleigh/Wake Forest area. I couldn’t find any pictures of your project...do you currently own a Z? Took the car for a quick spin today for the first time since putting in the new MAF sensor and it is noticeably smoother and faster! I guess the stories about cheap aftermarket parts being junk are true Hoping to get some drive by shots soon.
  10. I replaced the three main wiring connectors in the passenger footwell with Deutsch weatherpack connectors. The original Z wiring connectors were very sketchy and led to things like lights and blinkers working sporadically. The new connectors fixed those issues. The connectors were not to bad to work with and the only hard part was trying to do all this with the harnesses still in the car. After doing all this wiring the engine ran poorly and then eventually got to where it would completely stall/quit on startup. It gave a bad MAF code so replaced that with a nicer unit and all is well. I never know whether this stuff is coincidence or not.
  11. Spending some much needed time improving the engine wiring. We had left in all the wires we weren’t using from the LS1 harness and it was time to do it right by depinning the unused stuff from the ECU and removing the unused power wires. Before: After: This is what we got rid of... all about weight reduction when you have a 2+2 lol.
  12. Oh LoL! $20 bucks a pack on Amazon. My only concern is that I don't think you can use anything bigger than 14 gauge with them but that should be OK for most of the connectors.
  13. Yeah connectors are surprisingly expensive especially Milspec. I wanted to use Delphi stuff but couldn't find any kits with a lot of larger connectors at a reasonable price. I ordered these on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9XNFGG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're a brand I've never heard of but people in the reviews say they are actually Deutsch so I thought it was worth a try. I can update once they arrive if you're interested.
  14. Spent about 2.5 hours on the side of the interstate today because the engine died out of no where and wouldn't start again. Turned out to be a blown ECU fuse because the wire from the Datsun key that tells the computer to turn on had a bad short somewhere. Couldn't find the short so just ran a new temporary wire to get home. Time to spend 1-2 days redoing the engine harnesses, 1 GM harness for the engine and 1 harness with Datsun stuff. Going to take both harnesses out completely, wrap everything nicely, and use some new weather pack connectors instead of the old Datsun plugs. The original Z harness that runs in the engine bay and has the wire that shorted out was not restored well so this needed to be done anyway. The idea has been to drive the car around as much as possible near by so that we can find and fix these issues Edit: The short wasn’t from the Datsun key which now that I think about it wouldn’t make sense because that’s before the fuse. It was actually from the skip shift solenoid wires melting on the exhaust.
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